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by couris » 5 Jul 2006 22:39
Hi,
I just made my own set on lockpickshop.com, I didn't want to buy an already made set because i don't have enough money and thought there's some picks i won't use. Anyway, here what i chose:
SP-08 Long Hook Lock Pick 1 $1.95 $1.95
SP-09 Short Hook Lock Pick 1 $1.95 $1.95
SP-10 C Rake Lockpick 1 $1.95 $1.95
TW-01 Tension Wrench - Standard 1 $1.95 $1.95
TW-18 Tension Wrench - Double-ended 1 $1.95 $1.95
SP-07 Small Diamond Lock Pick 1 $1.95 $1.95
SP-06 Large Diamond 1 $1.95 $1.95
Good choice? I don't think my tension wrenches are, I don't see different tension wrenches on the site, they're all the same. Also, does lockpickshop.com sell an individual "deep" pick?
On a side note, tell me if im mistaken: each time I set a pin, i must rotate the cylinder with the torque a little bit to prevent it from "falling".
Thank you for your help, flame on! 
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couris
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by p1ckf1sh » 6 Jul 2006 5:33
couris wrote:Good choice? I don't think my tension wrenches are, I don't see different tension wrenches on the site, they're all the same. Also, does lockpickshop.com sell an individual "deep" pick?
You might end up using only two to three picks 90% of the time, but you need a wide range of tension tools. Even if you have two locks with identical keyways, they might require two different tension tools because one of the keyways might be a tad bit more worn or something. Get some windshield wiper inserts, one of those makes you half a dozen tension tools easily, more if you like it short. Experiment if you can work with flex (90% twist) or solid ones better. couris wrote:On a side note, tell me if im mistaken: each time I set a pin, i must rotate the cylinder with the torque a little bit to prevent it from "falling".
That a trap I stepped into as well. You are applying tension in the first place, to make pin bind before you set it. That amount of tension will automatically rotate the cylinder a tiny bit (might not be noticeable). Do not use more tension after each pin. Do not increase the tension during the picking. Use an amount of tension that you would believe does nothing. I think getting the tension right is an even more complicated and longwinded process than feeling out the pins and feeling sets, etc. That was the case with me at least.
One more thing, if you have a vise, consider using it at least for a test. In the beginning I had problems controlling my motorics, that means I had the cylinder in one hand and you had to hold it tight. Because I was using one finger of the same hand to tension the lock, it was hard for me to "disconnect" the the tension finger from the other ones, i.e. I always tended to have as much force on that finger as on the others that were holding the lock. And that is certainly too much. It takes a while to get the brain used to this weird pattern of muscle work, because it is unnatural or at least uncommon. When you grab or hold something, say a bottle, all your fingers exert the same force and you have to overcome that.
Due to financial limitations the light at the end of tunnel has been turned off until further notice.
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by couris » 6 Jul 2006 9:46
Thanks for the answer,
Thats what i will probably buy, any final thoughts? any useless stuff?
The slim pick is a slim hook
Final Price 27$ USD, SHIPPING TO CANADA INCLUDED
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by Shrub » 6 Jul 2006 11:13
Knock the last 3 tension wrenches off and replace them with a ball pick,
Make any further tension wrenches from some wiper insert, much cheaper and effective,
The double pronged wrench is harder to make right and one that works well so thats why i suggest keeping that on.
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by couris » 6 Jul 2006 11:57
Ok, I appreciate the answers
The problem is: I don't know what modifications I need to do in order to use the wiper insert as a torque.
Also, does it work well?
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by Shrub » 6 Jul 2006 12:04
They are exactally the same as the commercial ones so yes tthey work well,
You havent filled out your profile so i dont know where you live in the world so i will call them by both names,
Look a windsheild wiper/windscreen wiper blade and you will see 2 metal strips that hold the rubber to the metal arm, if your in euope pretty much any blade will do and you get these from local garages, they will have a few their scrap bin from when they have changed them,
If you are us based then look for the thinner ones of the two sizes you will find, the wider ones arent that good for wrenches but are for picks,
Pull the metal strips away from the rubber and cut them to length with a pair of pliers or somthing then put a 90' bend on the end, to make a twist one hold it between 2 pliers or i a vice and simply twist it then bend your 90' on the end and so on,
Search this site for pictures and better explanations.
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by couris » 6 Jul 2006 12:07
Sorry for the double post, no edit
Single ball or Double ball?
Also, i own some padlocks and realized the keyway is very small (for example, the key slot behind a master lock).... I'll be ok with standard picks, true? If European keyway are smaller, i can't imagine how 
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by Shrub » 6 Jul 2006 12:10
Well leave you may have to make somthing for that small keyway, dont worry about such things right now,
Go for a single ball a snowman is ok for some uses but a ball is more useful, it will compliment your double pronged wrench and pop wafer locks open in mere seconds (most wafer locks and when you get practised)
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by couris » 6 Jul 2006 12:13
Ok, Thank you for your answers, appreciated
I live in Canada by the way
Checkout?
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by Shrub » 6 Jul 2006 12:16
The list of picks looks ok to me, ive not looked up the make or type of picks but the forms are ok to me,
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by couris » 6 Jul 2006 12:31
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by Shrub » 6 Jul 2006 12:35
Youve got me there, how longs a piece of string? (i know its twice the distance from the centre)
They are both good, if i had to choose one and lookin gat your other 2 hooks (yes ive now looked at all your picks online) then i would pick the #9,
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by Shrub » 6 Jul 2006 12:36
You could drop your long hook pick and get the #6 instead but thats up to you, i dont know whats best for your locks,
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by bpc293 » 6 Jul 2006 20:10
i bought some of the same ones. when i got them i smoothed them out with some fine sandpaper then they felt alot better.
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by LockNewbie21 » 6 Jul 2006 21:01
I got a question i noticed that the slim line versions of the SO's differ in designs from the standard line. Is this just becuase the shapes require a slim line tang?
Andy
[deadlink]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h17/Locknewbie21/LockNewbie21Sig.jpg[/img]
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