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by bpc293 » 29 Aug 2006 1:35
locksmith question
if you get called out and the door is sagging because off stripped screw holes and putting a larger screw in is not an option what should be done.
would you quick fix it with epoxy in the hole or move the hing?
also is the hing doctor worth having.
thanks in advance for any replies.
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by Raccoon » 29 Aug 2006 1:59
I can't say I've seen an official trade method for this. I have personally stuffed the stripped holes with long shavings or spinters of wood. The screw then compacts into the hole and has had good grip. Besides wider screws, you can go with longer screws. I personally use 3" screws wherever possible.
I've had my eye on the Hinge Doctors myself. They appear to be a unique product and the technology is sound in theory. I'm always waxing doors and door frames to keep them from sticking. This would certainly help. But it is no substitute for well tightened screws. Even a quarter turn on the top hinge screws is enough to eliminate rubbing.
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by bpc293 » 29 Aug 2006 3:25
i remember i did a search awhile back about the hing doctor. i think everyone agreed it was not that good. i asked again because thats when it first came out. i thought maybe now someone owns one.
I've put everything in stripped holes and i never shoved wood in there. does it hold up.
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by Raccoon » 29 Aug 2006 4:48
The couple times I've done it, yes. In fact, I would like to try toothpicks.
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by HeadHunterCEO » 29 Aug 2006 6:35
1/8" masonary anchors in stripped out holes
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by UWSDWF » 29 Aug 2006 7:18
looking at the doctor there you could make one with some PVC pipe
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by bpc293 » 29 Aug 2006 10:32
headhunter you gave one of those answers that when i herd it i wanted to smack my self. thats a good one. i think i'm going to get some for the tool box and some tooth picks.
uwsdwf do you think PVC would do the same job as the metal. how i think it works i could be wrong i am allot. its a metal sleeve that slides over the hing and when you pull the door open it straightens the hing. wouldnt the pvc crack. if i got it wrong tell me 
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by UWSDWF » 29 Aug 2006 10:44
possibly....
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by jb68 » 29 Aug 2006 15:50
As a chippy (carpenter) I come across this often.
I generaly go for the cut down pieces of wood or matches also work well as I'm shure the tooth picks will.
Depends how big the old holes are, have on occasions had to make up a small dowel, taper the end and drive that in with a bit of pva glue, not too big mind or you can split the frame.
I'm assuming that the longer screws are not an option as the frame is a combi frame where they would come through the other side.
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by Shrub » 29 Aug 2006 15:54
Im with Jb on this one as well,
The hingE repairer would need to be metal and stronger than the metal of the hinge so either thicker or stronger, i would suggest thicker,
It take a lot of grief to get a good hinge to the state where that would have to be used and by that time for the price of hinge's you may as well replace the hinges,
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by ndgreen » 29 Aug 2006 18:23
In Australia we have a product to repair this exact problem!
In the trade it's called 'spaghetti' and is a long roll of fluted, round plastic that you stick in the hole and cut to size. Only difference between this stuff and a masonry anchor is the screw goes beside the spaghetti, not through the middle like a masonry anchor.
It's good stuff, and I'll bet it's available over your side of the pond.
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by keysman » 29 Aug 2006 18:34
I use the hinge doctor frequently to make temp repairs to the door.. it works well and only takes a few seconds.. yes you can rip the hinge screws right out of the door so you must be somewhat careful.
I don't think a piece of PVC pipe would be strong enough to work very well. Your results may varie
To repair stripped out screws .. toothpicks + some carpenters glue seem to go a long way.. tooth picks vs other small pieces of wood because they are made of hardwood and seem to grip very well.
Long screws ?? great if there is some wood behind the door frame .. but at least on newer construction around here there is a 1/2 in piece of the cheepest wood available or the newer steel 2x4 + air .. not much to "grab".
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by HeadHunterCEO » 29 Aug 2006 19:06
keysman wrote:I use the hinge doctor frequently to make temp repairs to the door.. it works well and only takes a few seconds.. yes you can rip the hinge screws right out of the door so you must be somewhat careful.
I don't think a piece of PVC pipe would be strong enough to work very well. Your results may varie
To repair stripped out screws .. toothpicks + some carpenters glue seem to go a long way.. tooth picks vs other small pieces of wood because they are made of hardwood and seem to grip very well.
Long screws ?? great if there is some wood behind the door frame .. but at least on newer construction around here there is a 1/2 in piece of the cheepest wood available or the newer steel 2x4 + air .. not much to "grab".
keep a good supply of #10 /6" long toggle bolts with you
take out all the hinge screws and flip the hinge back.
blow the holes to 5/16 all the way through to the inside of the metal stud on the two outermost scrrw locations.
This is how i solved that problem
toggle bolts will solve your problem as well
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by Temple » 29 Aug 2006 19:53
I have used the wood dowel/glue fix. The glue I use is Gorilla gluefrom Home Depot works like a charm and so far I haven't had one come out.
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by bpc293 » 29 Aug 2006 19:56
lots of times i would find a good bolt but the head would be to big to shut the door.so i need toggle bolts. do locksmiths have to buy the screw sets, cant you buy replacement screw's and stuff from a hardware store.
i seen a replacement screw assortment, it cost way to much for screws i thought.
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