Key Codes

[edwilson23]

Hi,
I operate a lockout service in Las vegas. I want to expand my business so I can make keys for my customers that have lost theirs. Problem is, I have no idea how to get started. A couple of questions I have follows:
Where do you get the specific key code for each car? Is it always on the lock cylinder?
Will the 1200CMB machine be the right cutter for auto and home locks?
Is it worth buying all the transponder tools, or let someone else have that business?
What kind of transponder tool do I need to reprogram? I have a ton of more questions but, I'll start with this for now. Thanks a lot for your help.

[Eyes_Only]

I do not yet do transponder at the moment but for the first two questions,

A lot of cars have codes stamped on the passenger side door lock, a lot of imports do this, some GM and Nissans have codes stamped or stickered on the inside of the glove box or on the glove box lock. But most of the Nissans we just impression cos its easier than taking the door panels or glove box apart.

Newer cars you can look up the code through the VIN number.

And the HPC 1200 series code machines are excellent machines. We have one in both our service vans and hopefully I'll get one in mines too when it becomes time for me to have my own van soon.

[specialist]

I'd recommend investing in either a T-Code or SDD. They come in handy either when copying or generating transponder keys. I really like the T-Code for the diversity that it can program. If you have a call for this sort of thing, it will pay itself off fairly quickly.

[Eyes_Only]

You may also need the automotive key machine for those high security keys thats used by European cars, Lexus and even Honda. They are pricey too. Ours cost us about $1700 I think.

[butterboy]

where woud I find a list of where the codes are on each kind of car.
Say GM on the door or Nissan in the glove box.
Just wondering if someone has a specifice list of these.
And I understand if that cant be talked about in open fourum.
May be a PM would be ok. Thanks

[zeke79]

That list is something for the advanced forums and not the open forums. Auto discussion is something that is to be discussed in the advanced area. I will allow the discussion of what tools are needed but discussion should stop there. There should be no discussion of how to use them etc or where to find codes in different autos.

If this thread can stay along those lines I will leave it open but if it continues to follow along the lines of codes and where to find them I will have to lock this up.

[kg4boj]

For a long long time I came into this job with basicly no knowledge of anything besides residential rekeying and basic automotive repair info. There were 3 locksmiths, all of witch were hostile twords a new locksmith in the shop, and a shop owner who thinks its ok to cut kwikset key bitting onto a schlage key to make precuts I got almost no help from the old staff and was told things I now know to be incorrect such as, ford 8 cut ignitions are where you should start with impressioning (before the sidebar was removed) on the transponder equipped vehicles etc.

I managed to learn by myself about the various tools etc over the course of a year and a half that what I was told about H.E. Mitchell EEZ readers were NOT worthless junk, quite invaluable to the locksmith, so I would recomend getting direct reading tools (eez readers) for any vehicle you plan to work on, some will be more used in your area than others.

I wish I could afford a 1200 CMB, but right now all I have is a very well used HPC punch machine with the 1101 punch and maybe 10 or 15 cards (anyone have the software and printer to help a starving locksmith?)
We have codemaster from treskat at my locksmith shop but it is well out of date and I am looking into getting a subscription to a service called lockcodes online or something.

The best refrence I recently discovered for wafer locations etc is the autosmart books, get both the foriegn and domestic books, keeping in mind some of the older vehicles might not be listed. There is a "kaba ilco auto-truck" keyblank refrence online that I use frequently when I don't know what keyblank to use it comes in quite handy.

Not all new cars have key codes on them, and if they do they are alot of the time a MAJOR hassle to get to.

I don't want to overstep the limits of the restrictions placed on this public forum about automotive, but I still cut alot of car keys for ex kia etc with a round file and by reading the heights of the wafers through what I was told was a "drain slot" in the bottom of the cylinder, as a rule of thumb, general motors older cars, (6 cut) use an independant ignition and door key, witch also works the glovebox, yet doesn't have all the cuts, read (PROGRESSIONING). For the ignition on the older GM's its usually a remove and replace for efficient time use.

If you have alot of ford 10 cuts (H60 keyblank) then you MUST get a ford 10 cut tryout set, any other way progressioning etc is a HUGE waste of time with them, and if the customers key doesnt fit the door and ignition (not 5 cuts) drill the ignition, you will save the customer time and money for labor.

Most foriegn cars that I run across are a simple double sided 8 cut system, and get someone knowledgable to teach you GM 10 cut ignitons.

I hope I stayed within the limits of this board, if anyone disagrees just PM me and I will edit the post accordingly, and if anyone has any questions on what I said just ask them here.

[Eyes_Only]

I just found out that GM and maybe even Chrysler will no longer release key codes to locksmiths from now on.

[kg4boj]

That shouldnt be a problem with the Chrysler Y157 and Y159 ( near all of em) and even the MIT3 ones arent that tough. and the GM 10 cut colums.... if you absolutely have to get in them you can do it without damage in say 10-15 min..... I have a whole wealth of information on domestic and foriegn common cars as soon as I get approval for the advanced sections I will share, and I'm planning on a GM 10 cut video for certain budding auto locksmiths who are running into self discovering what I had to about 10 cut gm's a while back.

[Eyes_Only]

I know for the Chrysler you can use the EEZ Reader to decode it and cut it on the HPC machine.

[kg4boj]

Yes you can do it that way.... you can also use those nifty tryouts that work great, until I was introduced to EEZ readers about 2 weeks ago I impressioned them. EVERY LAST ONE OF THEM, from the single sided what... y154? keyblanks to the y 157/159 blanks I don't want to overstep the rules but If for some strange reason I needed to be dead on accurate I learned quickly that many chrysler products could be read through the "drain hole" in the bottom of the trunk lock housing.

[WOT]

I know for the Chrysler you can use the EEZ Reader to decode it and cut it on the HPC machine.

1....2....3.... lockity lock

[jaysonbernard]

The best refrence I recently discovered for wafer locations etc is the autosmart books

I agree 110% These books cost me about $85 dollars for the 2006 set but worth every penny. They list almost everything you could need to know about what you are working on.

[globallockytoo]

The best refrence I recently discovered for wafer locations etc is the autosmart books

I agree 110% These books cost me about $85 dollars for the 2006 set but worth every penny. They list almost everything you could need to know about what you are working on.

ditto

you could get an ASP catalogue...they're free I think...and list alot of info...bit hard to navigate tho.

[Biggermens]

I just found out that GM and maybe even Chrysler will no longer release key codes to locksmiths from now on.

Hay Eyes_Only you are right about GM no longer release key codes i am a bailiff and one of the guys of the dealer i used to get keys from showed me the letter right from GM saying that only a person with the proper title and id can get a key code and a key and it also says that locksmiths, baliffs, police ect.. can no longer have this info . that is y i am here