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Repinning SFICs

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
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Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Repinning SFICs

Postby Trip Doctor » 16 Oct 2007 22:25

Hi all,

Has anyone here repined, or know if it's possible to repin a BEST IC Core by hand (without the pinning contraption)?
The problems occuring to me are:

1. Whether it would be a reasonable task putting the caps back on.
2. If it IS a fairly easy task to do, would I not end up overcompressing the springs if I do it too much? (I imagine it takes some 'umph' to pop those caps off).

Also, is there a specific height that those caps should be sitting at? Does it matter much?
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Postby Eyes_Only » 16 Oct 2007 23:28

I couldn't imagine trying to cap a SFIC without my A-1 manual capping tool. I think it is very likely you'll drive the caps in too far and maybe even injuring yourself.

I recommend this sucker, http://www.lockpicks.com/index.asp?Page ... ProdID=580 . This is the tool I have and although it is a bit time consuming, it is one of the most low cost alternatives out there.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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Re: Repinning SFICs

Postby WOT » 17 Oct 2007 4:35

I have. It's extremely time consuming and you'll get a horrible result, so don't.

Best SFIC cores are a unique breed not like most cylinders. Each chamber has it's own cap held by friction and each stack is directly accessible from the bottom.

To get them out, you push down on the bottom pin. until the spring bottoms out, then you transfer the force through the pin stack knocking out the cap.

To cap them, you install all the pins, then put the core into a capping block. Drop a spring in chamber, drop a cap. Gently push the cap down with the capping tool, then give a sharp hit with a plastic or a rawhide mallet. The momentum of the mallet will push the capping tool into the core until the shoulder hits the block. You'll see brass shavings on the top after you're finished.

- Pins and caps MUST be replaced each time a core is opened.

- The knockout tool is hardened steel, bottom pins are nickel silver and they'll get gouged. Bottom pins should be replaced, but you can get away with reusing them.

- DO NOT use a metal hammer. The hammer head caves in as the capping tool bottoms out. If you use a metal hammer, you'll greatly accelerate wear on the capping block lip and the capping tool shoulder.
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Postby Trip Doctor » 17 Oct 2007 16:33

Yea, I was taking a look at that earlier Eyes, but uhh.. decided it's not worth to spend that much money on something I won't use that often anyways. Hence the question, lol.

Pins and caps MUST be replaced each time a core is opened


So then would the springs have to be replaced as well?


Thanks for responces guys.
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Postby JackNco » 17 Oct 2007 16:52

well i took one apart completely and destroyed all the springs and i reduced one to a 4pin for practice and destroyed the spring n that as well. that was with a screwdriver and a metal hammer.

Just grab some falcons on ebay and you can re pin them as many times as you like.

John
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Postby Eyes_Only » 17 Oct 2007 22:18

I wouldn't reuse the springs if I was at work but if it was for practice at home I would stretch out the springs and try to reuse them once or twice. Probably bad for the springs though.
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Postby WOT » 17 Oct 2007 23:15

Trip Doctor wrote:Yea, I was taking a look at that earlier Eyes, but uhh.. decided it's not worth to spend that much money on something I won't use that often anyways. Hence the question, lol.

Pins and caps MUST be replaced each time a core is opened


So then would the springs have to be replaced as well?


Thanks for responces guys.


Oops, I meant to say caps and springs MUST be replaced.
Bottom pins should be replaced as well.

You can stretch the spring back, but it will result in an unreliable lock, especially if the lock isn't permanently positioned like in a dead bolt with the top pointing up. Weak spring won't bring the pins down reliably and off centre springs can jamb inside and stop functioning as a spring.

Springs get crushed to a small pancake and even with best effort, they won't stretch out perfectly straight.
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Postby WOT » 17 Oct 2007 23:29

The one someone else showed you includes a pin dump out pockets, so you can have the pins come out in a nice stack for decoding an existing core.

If you're in the trade, you should get it, otherwise, the only thing you need is a capping block.

Original Best springs are phosphorous bronze, but my generic springs are ferrous metal. The caps are brass and they're actually more expensive than springs.

I love ICORE :-)
The pic in my pic is of icore pins by the way.
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Postby Trip Doctor » 18 Oct 2007 0:17

WOT wrote:The pic in my pic is of icore pins by the way.


Oh, are those master pins next to the springs, 'cause I thought those were the caps?

So are the holes in the capping block a little bigger than the holes on the top of the lock itself?

Would repinning one of these locks a lot make it unreliable or 'unripinnable' again (by the caps carving at the circumfrance of the pin stacks and increasing their diameter) ?


Just question after quetion aren't I :P .
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Postby WOT » 18 Oct 2007 1:27

Trip Doctor wrote:
WOT wrote:The pic in my pic is of icore pins by the way.


Oh, are those master pins next to the springs, 'cause I thought those were the caps?

I keep making dumb mistake after mistake. I meant to say, the pic in my signature. They're caps, although they look very much like the #2 pins, except they're slightly larger in diameter.

So are the holes in the capping block a little bigger than the holes on the top of the lock itself?


The capping tool's shaft is the same diameter as the pins, so it can push the cap into the block.

The capping block's holes are larger than the caps, so you can push new caps through them.

Would repinning one of these locks a lot make it unreliable or 'unripinnable' again (by the caps carving at the circumfrance of the pin stacks and increasing their diameter) ?


Just question after quetion aren't I :P .


Ideally, the caps shaves off rather than the core, but you're right. Cores are not made to endure being recapped hundreds of times.
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Postby Trip Doctor » 18 Oct 2007 14:16

Understood :)
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Postby Afisch » 18 Oct 2007 15:22

As these thing are so hard to deal with, does that not sorta counteract the SFIC advantage, or am i missing the point here a little?
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Postby Gordon Airporte » 18 Oct 2007 19:52

Any reason you couldn't tap the tops of the chambers and use set screws like Medecos?
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Postby Eyes_Only » 18 Oct 2007 20:29

Maybe you could but I think the main reason these locks are designed the way they are is so it can be serviced really quickly in the field where you may have hundreds of SFIC locks to re-key.
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Postby criminalhate » 18 Oct 2007 22:50

I have an old locksmithing course (vintage early 70's) in it, it covers repining Best cylinders. (just reassembly summed up here)

1. Take a round punch dip it into light grease or oil
2. lay cap on end of the punch (grease/oil will hold it)
3. center the cap over hole. Then press gently into hole.
4. Tap the punch lightly with a hammer.

it's just as easy as that =P

Ok what I'm getting at is before all these fun new contraptions they did this with just a round punch patients and a hammer.
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