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by WOT » 14 Jun 2008 16:54
Doing some online reading, I read "plunge cut" is suitable for most residential keys and "laser/profile" cut for automotive keys. I'm guessing laser cut simply means cuts with no steeples in between.
When you look at keys, you can usually tell whether they're for wafer tumbler or pin tumbler by simply looking at the presence of steeples. Mailbox, file cabinet and common car keys don't have steeples while pin & tumbler keys like like Schlage and Kwikset do.
I'm guessing laser cut means the there is no steeple between two cuts.
On key machines like Framon manual and HPC 1200, you use the x control to set spacing, then you move the cutter into the cutter with y control, back off the cutter, move spacing to next position and repeat... so I'm guessing the word plunge best describes this type of method.
How do you code cut a mailbox, car or file cabinet key on a traditional code machine like those above without causing steeples(that are probably not good for wafers) in between cut depths?
I read some manuals for computerized machines and many give you a choice of plunge vs profile/laser, but I don't see how you can do it on a manual machine unless you can move the x and y at the same time like a pro.
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by robotmaxtron » 14 Jun 2008 20:24
I'm fairly positive that you can indeed cut automotive (most at least, excluding the high security keys like VW and BMW) with the HPC 2000
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by vitti » 15 Jun 2008 2:35
I believe that "laser cut" is referring to the VW and Audi style keys. Like the one on the left in this picture.
As for code cutting without the peaks for wafer locks, codes refer to more than just depth. The width of the cuts specified for that keyway would be such that there would be no peaks.
I could be wrong there but makes sense to me. 
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by raimundo » 15 Jun 2008 7:16
laser cut was what people began calling keys cut with a mill along the side. its more like what a woodworker would call a router,
Another name for these keys has been sidewinder, as some of them have grooves in the side of the key that lift the pins.
Calling them laser cut is stupid, except that its a term generally understood here and there is no other clear cut term to replace it that I have heard.
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by linty » 15 Jun 2008 7:31
Wot is right I believe. I've definitely seen companies refer to laser cut as keys with smooth transitions and none of the "peaks" caused by plunge cutting.
The term HPC uses for this (I use it as well because it's less ambiguous) is Contoured keys, and the codemax and blue shark both have it as an option (although the codemax won't leave a peak at the end, which is bad).
If you want to "laser cut" a key on a manual machine, just only lift the cutter as high as you need to, and drag it between cuts.
For example, to cut a pundra 35153
you'd plunge to 3 then drag to the next space
plunge to 5, raise to 1, then drag two spaces over
plunge to 5, raise to 3, drag one space over
raise the cutter and you have a "laser cut" key with no peaks
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by Jaakko » 15 Jun 2008 9:25
Could someone tell me where that term "laser" comes to describe those cuts? 
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by freakparade3 » 15 Jun 2008 9:56
WOT wrote:
How do you code cut a mailbox, car or file cabinet key on a traditional code machine like those above without causing steeples(that are probably not good for wafers) in between cut depths?
It's kind of set into the depths when you code cut a wafer key. The blanks are smaller and the spaces are closer so when you have a finished key there really are no peaks. I'll be code cutting some next week, I'll try to post some pictures for you.
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by lockpicker69 » 15 Jun 2008 11:08
whats a vag key or lock then ? i know they are used on vw cars but does it stand or mean anything
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by Eyes_Only » 15 Jun 2008 13:17
I think thats just another shortened name for VW.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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by cool-arrow » 15 Jun 2008 14:02
I believe VAG stands for (Volkswagen Audi Group). Im not 100% sure but Porsche, Audi, VW, and Skoda are referred to as VAG locks. At least the same tool is usded to pick that style of lock.
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by WOT » 15 Jun 2008 18:15
Ok, so here is what I mean:
I believe the right cutter for both of these keys is HPC CW-1011 or Framon FC 8445 which is a thin cutter to allow for smaller clearance between the first cut and the shoulder.
The top one is a mailbox key for an apt complex I used to live at one point. The very front is actually supposed to be completely flat. If you look at any original mailbox keys, you won't see a hump on the front.
The bottom one is a M1 padlock key.
If you do a plunge cut, you'd end up with a key with steeples like the M1. If you make a mail box key like this, it will work, but the steeples will accelerate notching wear on wafers and this can be a big deal for frequently used locks like a car ignition cylinder.
You operate the Framon machine by setting depth and width, then you plunge the cutter forward with a plunge lever, so it is going to be awkward to do smooth transition (holding down the lever with one hand and crank the spacing crank)
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by WOT » 15 Jun 2008 18:22
This is a good reference to look at:
http://www.framon.com/resource/2001wuim.pdf
Look at page 9. This is by no mean a side milling cutter, but there's a choice between laser and plunge.
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by mcm757207 » 15 Jun 2008 19:33
Wafer lock keys and pin tumbler lock keys are cut using the exact same process, it's just that sometimes (usually), the spacing between each tumbler is closer on wafer locks because wafers take up less space. Because of this, the cutter cuts into the next cut's "hill" that you are seeing. The hills are a valuable part of the bitting cut on the key blade because they inhibit the key being pulled out in a position where it isn't meant to be.
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by savs2k » 3 Oct 2008 16:55
are "laser cut" pickable? im always buying cars from the auction and tow yard but never bought one with a "laser cut" matter of fact i wont buy the car if it takes one and doesnt come with one but just to know are they pickable? Its a noob question but with all of my automotive knowledge i have no idea how these keys work.
also the new "laser cut" on my bmw is different from the key posted. The ignition key doesnt use a actual key but a square remote you just push in. But inside of that remote is an actual key that is used to open the glove box so you just take it out to valet the car. The key is cut opposite from the car key posted by vitti. As you can see the key that vitti posted was cut where the sides are thinner and the middle makes the key. On the new bmw the middle is still they key part but they shape of the key is cut down. The best way i can describe it is take the key vitti posted and press it into clay and that clay mod is the key.
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by zeke79 » 4 Oct 2008 18:42
You can laser cut with the hpc1200 or the framon #2 using the method mentioned above. It just takes a bit more time. The ITL series of machines offers the laser option and I use it for vehicle keys, wafer locks, etc. You end up with a key that inserts and removes much easier and causes less wafer wear as if you have an auto key that is say 2333122441 then there are no peaks between any of the same cut depths that are next to each other or anywhere else. The only ramps you end up with are what is needed to go from one depth to the next. Hope that makes some sense.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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