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Removing a cylinder from a master hitch pin

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
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Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Removing a cylinder from a master hitch pin

Postby poky13 » 31 Aug 2008 12:24

I just picked a receiver hitch pin from my daughters SUV that she bought, There was no key for it. I would like to know how to get the cylinder out to re key it. looks like a pin goes through it, but does it go all the way or are there two pin. need help! :cry:
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Re: Removing a cylinder from a master hitch pin

Postby keysman » 31 Aug 2008 13:20

poky13 wrote:I just picked a receiver hitch pin from my daughters SUV that she bought, There was no key for it. I would like to know how to get the cylinder out to re key it. looks like a pin goes through it, but does it go all the way or are there two pin. need help! :cry:




A photo or some more info ,like the manufacturer, would be VERY helpful.
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Postby n2oah » 31 Aug 2008 13:52

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that your lock is probably not re-keyable.
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Postby Raymond » 31 Aug 2008 21:47

Your lock is definitely not cost efficient to rekey. However, just for the fun of it go ahead. There are most likely two pins driven in from opposite sides. Each can be drilled out separately. Use a drill smaller that the full diameter and after drilling a hole, either tap it to create threads or screw in a very small self tapping screw. Either can then be gripped to pull out the pin without changing the original diameter of the hole. A new pin can be made and hammered in later.
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Postby n2oah » 31 Aug 2008 23:10

Sorry, by saying "not re-keyable" I meant that the lock is not intended to be user serviceable. You'll probably be required to do some drilling, like Raymond said in his post.
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Postby freakparade3 » 1 Sep 2008 10:10

poky13 is there a code stamped on the lock anywhere? It's most likely a wafer lock and rekeying it would require a wafer keying kit. It would be cheaper to buy a new hitch then to buy the kit.
Image
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Postby poky13 » 1 Sep 2008 11:45

Thanks guys. I kind of thought it hade to be done like Ramond said, I was not shore. It is a pin tumbler and there is no codr that I can find, I think I will try to impression a key I have never tried it before. Oh it is a Master lock. Thanks again everybody
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Postby zeke79 » 4 Sep 2008 20:09

Are you talking about the type that locks over the ball on the hitch or one that goes through the hole in the hitch receiver? Your best bet would likely be impressioning if you have some blanks on hand.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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Postby poky13 » 5 Sep 2008 19:38

It is the one that goes through the hitch, I tried impression the key and came real close but did not work. I dilled out the pin and went that way. I could not get the cylinder out because I could not get a pin out that was in the fifth hole. I got the pins out and finished the key.Got two keys know and works fine I thank everybody again. Heres a picture [img][img]http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/ralf13/Masterpinlock003.jpg[/img][/img]Image
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Postby zeke79 » 8 Sep 2008 22:11

It's a master brand lock. That partictular lock if it is like all of the others I have seen take the M1 blank and can easily be impressioned. I have done so many of these and the ball locks that I can pick them and base can speed up the impressioning process by feeling the height of the first two pins with a feeler pick and then feel the pin height difference on the last two pins and determin the cuts. If you do it this way, it helps to confirm start with a blank and laser cut a #1 on the last position of the key and see if it inserts under the first pin. If a #1 doesnt slide in, try a #2, etc until you can fit the key under the bottom pin in #1 position. Once you figure out the first pin size, you can use the feeler pick to determine bottom pins based on the info you derived. It takes some practice but once you get the hang of it, it is quick and easy to do.

Your best bet is to learn how to both impression and learn this technique and you'll be on your way to opening these locks and providing a key very quickly.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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Postby poky13 » 10 Sep 2008 12:16

Thanks for all of the help, I got two keys made, that help her. I'm going to work on impressioning techniques. Thanks again
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Postby op-sec » 3 Oct 2008 15:41

That's a cool technique for speeding up the impressioning process. Thanks for sharing it!
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Postby MacGnG1 » 3 Oct 2008 21:25

yea ive seen those at walmart all the time but i wasnt really sure what those locks were for
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Postby zeke79 » 4 Oct 2008 18:25

op-sec wrote:That's a cool technique for speeding up the impressioning process. Thanks for sharing it!


Just an FYI on the matter of where I used the words "laser cut". My ITL code machine has an option to do what they call a "laser cut". It does not leave the peaks that are usually found between cuts. For instance, if you cut a schlage key in laser mode to all 9's it would just be a flat cut clear across the bitting surface of the key.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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