ERA Multi Point....

[Daniel's Locksmiths]

Hello.

I have an ERA Composite Door Mech. thats jammed, Handle lifts up to throw the Deadbolt and 2 Hooks. But the handles can only manage to move a little off the normal/level position.

removed Hinge pins but the Hinges have Steel lugs to prevent removal of door, tried by pushing and pulling on the hooks to release.

I've got the new full length Lock Mech. to replace but I just cant / Dont know how to release the hooks etc.. Hook and Deadbolt are visable to be cut with Grinder but that is my last option!

Please help... Many Thanks in advance.

[mhole]

Have you tried removing the handles and operating the mechanism with a spindle attached to a big cheater bar? Often the handle alone won't give enough mechanical advantage to shift a fubar'd mechanism, but a bit of extra leverage will get it shifted.

You maybe be out of luck, and have an internal component which has come loose and jammed the central lockcase, if that's the case I've had to removed material from the door (where the handles will cover it) and use a screwdriver and hammerl to knock the sliders on the lockcase into position.

Good luck!

Oh,and *it's obvious but we've all done it* but is the mechanism definately unlocked by the cylinder?

[Daniel's Locksmiths]

I think the whole mech. has jammed from a broken piece. i did remove the handles to have a better/closer look but nothing to see from closely drilled holes around the spindle and cylinder.

I'm not sure where to drill to get a screw-driver in to poke things out the way? again I dont want to make a fool of myself drilling 16 holes in the door to find the correct place

Will have a go at removing handles and having more of a leverage

p.s. yes the cylinder is locking and unlocking, and is in the unlocked postion, (a further turn of the key retracts the latch when unlocking)

Thanks for your info

[mhole]

What I have done is to neatly chisel away the section of door behind the handles, so I can see the case. Make sure you dont colour outside the lines (!) and leave the area around the mounting holes untouched so that the handle won't be able to shift on the door when refitted.

Removing material here gives you more chance to see the lockcase, and possibly a way to access something helpful. Alternatively, it may not help at all, but at least there will be no no visible sign of it once the handles are refixed.

NB: I did this on a UPVC door with a GU quicklock MPL. I can't see why it wouldn't work on a composite door, but go carefull!

[Daniel's Locksmiths]

Mhole...
Ah yeah I could try that, the handles are very thin/slim. But will try

Any one Know where I can buy Lever packs for Chubb Union ERA Mortice locks? I had a suppyer but now no longer hold them in stock.

Please PM me

Thank You

[lockey1963]

sks , aldridge , duffels , keyprint and city safe all stock the lever packs, also making up your own is fairly easy and very cost effective out of old levers from exchanged locks.

[mhole]

What he said!

[79commando]

The ERA multi point is prone to part of the internals collapsing and jamming on the gearing. Sometimes shaking the handles up and down roughly can free them off. Failing that brute strength and ignorance on the handles works.

[Daniel's Locksmiths]

I removed the handles and used a spare spindle and an adjustable spanner to try and free up the lock.

Jammed forever I think as I twisted the spindle

I then used a Hack Saw blade to cut the 2 Hooks and Dead bolt. I still have the old lock so i'm going to remove the cap and see what went wrong and where if possible to drill to remove broken bits next time

Cheers though guys..

[79commando]

When you remove the cover on the lock check the section thast the cam operates. This shearing in two also causes a problem.. What happens is the cam can push the bolt forward as it hits against the front of the bolt. When you try to undo it as there is no talon (think of an upside down V) for the cam to pull against therefore the bolt stays in the forward position.