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by FHEB111 » 17 May 2009 20:24
Hello everyone, glad I could find a forum like this. I got into lockpicking about a year ago and I've seemed to gone over my head with a BEST lock recently. I live in a college apartment which has BEST locks for each room. I don't know the exact model, and I'm currently not around the lock, but if needed I can provide the code located on the lock. It has a L-shaped handle, and a triangular notch which controls the deadbolt. When the triangular notch is turned sideways, the deadbolt is active. Anyways, one day I decided to go ahead and try and pick the BEST lock on my door. I used a snake pick and after a while I seemed to be loosening the pins (which I assumed were security pins). The spacing between the door handle and lock is a little small, and the bottom of my standard tension tool would hit the door handle if I tried to do a 360 degree motion. When I finally seemed to have succeeded in picking the lock, the key hole itself started to move. It turned all the way to a 180 degree angle, literally upside down. I couldn't go much farther and I was afraid of messing up the lock more, so I brought it back to its original position and decided to stop. Unfortunately, now my key doesn't work for the lock. I try to put the key in, but it won't slide all the way -- it just stops about a quarter of the way. I don't have the control key (or whatever its called) that is needed to change the lock sequence, and I'm trying to solve this discreetly (otherwise I could look at some nice fines). So, my lock works fine, it deadbolts just as easily before, but the only problem is that now it rejects my key. Could anyone help me with this? I've definitely had an "oh shit" moment. Thanks.
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FHEB111
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by mr_chris79 » 17 May 2009 20:32
im sure this has been posted before? but for a start dont practice on a lock in use!!! for the simple reason you can break it like you have done, most probably a master pin has dropped and is now nicely jammed up. you now need to call your caretaker and explain why your lock doesnt work and buy some practice locks, im sure someone who knows about these locks will be along shortly to berate you 
if everyone who tried something new liked it but didnt bother telling anyone else there would never be anything new to try...
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by TigerDragon » 17 May 2009 20:34
Repeat this mantra until you turn blue in the face... then repeat it some more.
"I will not pick locks that are in use. I will not pick locks that do not belong to me."
Now, having said that......
BEST locks tend to be IC type locks (interchangeable core) which means the change key operates the change shear line, and the working key operates the lock shear line. If you picked one or more of the pins to the change key shear line and turned it too far, this could explain why you can't use the working key any more (especially if there was a master pin involved). Your best bet is to own up to your mistake, pay the fine, and learn from it.
Good luck.
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by FHEB111 » 17 May 2009 20:39
Ah, I figured that would be the case. It is indeed an IC lock.
That brings me to my next question: Have I destroyed the lock or is simply need to be corrected with the core key?
Thanks for the help so far.
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by Squelchtone » 17 May 2009 20:41
Yeah, sounds like you dropped a master wafer into the keyway... I made this diagram July 25, 2006 for another n00b.. his name was Schuyler Towne.  I have a link just for you: http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=42970As others have said, please don't pick locks in use, or locks you depend on for your security. And just because you are given a key to a lock, doesn't mean you own that lock and can freely experiment on it via bumping, picking, or taking apart. Squelchtone ps. the control key will not insert either now that the wafer is blocking the keyway. They will probably have to drill the lock and put a new core into the lever set you have.
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by FHEB111 » 17 May 2009 20:51
Well, it's certainly going to be a lesson learned. If I understand this correctly, all that is really messed up is the core itself, not the entire lock assembly (or whatever it is called). Unfortunately for me, the maintenance people are not locksmiths. I think if the core key doesn't work, then they will replace the lock assembly completely. Is it safe to say that this job takes a person knowledgeable of how locks work? I ask this because if that's true then I need to prepare $400 
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by Squelchtone » 17 May 2009 20:56
FHEB111 wrote:Well, it's certainly going to be a lesson learned. If I understand this correctly, all that is really messed up is the core itself, not the entire lock assembly (or whatever it is called). Unfortunately for me, the maintenance people are not locksmiths. I think if the core key doesn't work, then they will replace the lock assembly completely. Is it safe to say that this job takes a person knowledgeable of how locks work? I ask this because if that's true then I need to prepare $400 
You could just say the lock stopped working on it's own.. they surely cannot blame you for mechanical failure.. it all depends on how well you can sleep at night with whatever story you tell them... Squelchtone
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by mr_chris79 » 17 May 2009 20:58
yep you guessed it bud you need a Pro Locksmith on the case! sorry you had to start your picking adventures this way but fear not because many many others have done the same as you, im one of the lucky ones who was introduced to the hobby by a trading locksmith 
if everyone who tried something new liked it but didnt bother telling anyone else there would never be anything new to try...
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by mr_chris79 » 17 May 2009 21:00
curse the lack of edit button lol, sorry for double posting but my freinds motto was 'Never pick a lock in use unless your on a job' 
if everyone who tried something new liked it but didnt bother telling anyone else there would never be anything new to try...
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by FHEB111 » 17 May 2009 21:03
Haha bahhh, alright. Well, time to suck it up and explain the shit I got myself into. Thanks guys, appreciate the quick responses and thorough explanations.
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by mcm757207 » 17 May 2009 21:05
FHEB111 wrote:Haha bahhh, alright. Well, time to suck it up and explain the road apples I got myself into. Thanks guys, appreciate the quick responses and thorough explanations.
Let us know how it turns out
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by FHEB111 » 17 May 2009 21:06
Before I go, however, the picture above mentions that the keyhole cannot turn back to its original position. But for my scenario, the keyhole does go back to its original position. Does this make any difference?
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by FHEB111 » 17 May 2009 21:06
mcm151201 wrote:FHEB111 wrote:Haha bahhh, alright. Well, time to suck it up and explain the road apples I got myself into. Thanks guys, appreciate the quick responses and thorough explanations.
Let us know how it turns out
Will do.
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by Squelchtone » 17 May 2009 21:13
FHEB111 wrote:Before I go, however, the picture above mentions that the keyhole cannot turn back to its original position. But for my scenario, the keyhole does go back to its original position. Does this make any difference?
that picture was more or less to show the master wafer has probably fallen into the keyway in your situation. When you originally turned the lock 180 that's when it occurred. Squelchtone
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by FHEB111 » 17 May 2009 21:20
Gotcha, thanks.
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