Copying from Axxess+ 92 to same blank.. not working

[WOT]

I lost my mailbox key, so I got it open. I re-made a new key by code on an Axxess+ #92 blank on a Framon 1 code machine and it works perfectly.

Since I didn't feel like buying more blanks and re-making them, I just got them copied at Home Depot. The copies don't work, the one I code-cut works. I had them re-do it at a different location, same result.

I know that Axxess+ blanks are made to substitute more than one blanks and they're kind of like the master key blank for multiplex keyway masterkeys.

The copies worked fine after I traced it over from my code cut key on my Ilco manual duplicator. Is the problem two seprate Axxess+ machines, or did I not have good enough tolerance when I code cut it?

[keysman]

why not try recutting the "bad " duplicate on your framon .. that will tell you if the duplicator at the store is cutting high or low.

[thelockpickkid]

did you happen to caliper the depths on the duplicated keys that didn't work? Were they to shallow or too deep? Usually all store duplicators are slightly off, don't ask me why, is there a chance your machines was off a thousandth and then it was doubled with the stores duplicators, then wouldn't work?

[WOT]

Ok, I figured it out, but I still don't get it...

The depth are correct to the thousandth of an inch. It's more accurate than my manual duplicator. Spacing not so accurate.

The Framon code made key was supposed to start at 195 mils to Bommer specs, but due to the machine not being adjusted properly or simply lack of my skills, it started at 185 mills or started too close to the shoulder.

The funny thing is that the out-of-tolerance original code made key works perfectly. The Axxess copy of this doesn't. Axxess copy is closer to starting at 175. So maybe it forgave me 10mil error, but when I had 20mil error, it just wasn't willing to work.

I can retrace the erratic original onto made copy on a manual machine... or I could file off the should until the center of the first cut rests at 195 mils and it works again. Thankfully, the direction of error was in my favor allowing me to correct by filing the shoulder.

I can easily adjust key machines cut depth to 1/500" using a caliper, but horizon starting point is difficult as even after you make a cut, you have to use a caliper, then eyeball where the root of the cut is, which contributes to error.

Maybe I just suck at making keys by code and I should just get a PROPER one made by a locksmith.

[Buggs41]

I know how you feel.

I made a duplicate of an Ilco P1106 (B86) for our '97 GMC Jimmy. The key is double sided without shoulder stops. I had to dup using tip stop on my FB200. The key only works 'one way.' If it won't turn, I have to flip it 180, and it turns. Beats the heck out of me which side of the key has the spacing incorrect.