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Group 2M combination locks - what are they?

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Group 2M combination locks - what are they?

Postby lajos » 4 Oct 2004 6:55

I know the group 2 and group 1 and 1R locks. I also know that a group 2M lock is resistant to 2 hours of expert manipulation, but in practice, what makes it more resistant? I couldn't find any info on that on the internet...

First of all, does the 2 hours include the help of electronic, electrical or optic aids (including softdrill(TM) and such like)?


Is it things like false gates or is it tigher machining of the wheels?
I mean, you must get contact readings with the lock otherwise it would pretty much be a group 1 lock, right?

Is it maybe that the number of actual possible combinations are not enough to quality for a group 1 lock (ie: not 4 wheels)?

Cheers,
L.
lajos
 
Posts: 29
Joined: 27 Sep 2004 10:27

Postby hzatorsk » 4 Oct 2004 11:46

Look for a mechanism holds the fence off of the wheels so you don't get any feedback from the wheels/dial until a seperate manual step is performed to 'drop' the fence onto the wheel pack during the opening turn of the drive cam.

Some locks, you press in the dial before engaging the drive cam to pull back the bolt. Other locks, have a small knob that achieves the same purpose.

The idea is... the drive cam has a fence lift on it so that the fence will always be raised off the wheel pack within a half revolution of the dial. This will cause you to have to work MUCH harder as half the dial engages the fence lift and therefore prevents you from getting feedback on the wheels. A gate hidden behind the lift zone has to be worked out by trial and error.
hzatorsk
 
Posts: 696
Joined: 20 Jul 2004 11:15

Postby lajos » 5 Oct 2004 6:56

Talk about taking the fun out of manipulation.

But if they go to all that trouble, why don't they simply make Group 1 locks?
For buyers as well, they cost very little extra money compared to the price of a safe...

A well, thanks for your answer. Now I know I won't try them.

L.
lajos
 
Posts: 29
Joined: 27 Sep 2004 10:27

Postby hzatorsk » 6 Oct 2004 10:09

lajos wrote:But if they go to all that trouble, why don't they simply make Group 1 locks?
For buyers as well, they cost very little extra money compared to the price of a safe...



Some people don't want a lock that takes 20 hours to open (or has to be drilled) if they should forget the combination.

But the real answer is probably "Marketing!" Would you buy the Group 1 lock if you knew the only difference between the Group 2 and the Group 1 is the price and that the locks themselves where identical and met the Group 1 UL rating.

Or... are you suggesting that the manufacturer simply drop the Group 2 from their product offering. ...allowing other companies to capitalize on the entry level market.

I guess... you could lower the price of your Group 1 to compete with the other companies Group 2... but now you're not making as much money.
hzatorsk
 
Posts: 696
Joined: 20 Jul 2004 11:15


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