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Defining Characteristics

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Defining Characteristics

Postby logosys » 4 Oct 2004 12:45

If you're going to go buy yourself a brand new lock, what differentiates a Kwikset from any other brand of lock? What would YOU say are the critical things to know about a lock?

Here's what I think:

Manufacturer
ANSI Security Lvl.
Price
Keyway/Keyblank
Installation time
Key control options
Pin/Disc/Wafer
Secondary locking mechanisms (sidebar, etc)
Finishes available
Complementing doorknob?

What is important to you?
-Logo

I am a great believer in luck, and I find the harder I work the more I have of it.
--Thomas Jefferson
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Postby Chucklz » 4 Oct 2004 14:10

Materials used in construction is also a big factor. For example the Kwikset UltraMax or whatever they call the high security stuff, has an ANSI grade 1 bolt. Now, for some reason I beleive that they rest of the lock is probably not grade 1 at all.

I would also want a lock that would look good with a door wrap. For a very attractive price, you get a nice increase in brute force resistance. You can also use one to hide cosmetic damage from installations. I would also add a security strike, and some nice long screws. I would try to add security withoud advertising the fact. Where I live, some people still don't lock their doors at night. I can't say that I agree with this practice, but I don't want my house to stick out as "the fortress", just be less attractive than the next guys door.
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Postby thertel » 4 Oct 2004 14:20

I agree with that list but I would add a few more, as follows:

Machining Tolerances

Drill Resistence through hardplate usage

Commonality of that lock in area, ie using a BS3621 in Texas would be very secure because most people would look at it with no idea what it was, I'm trying to order these for my house.

Thats the only things I think that was missing from you list

Thomas
He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster.
And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you.
~Friedrich Nietzsche
thertel
 
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Postby MrB » 4 Oct 2004 15:24

A BS3621 mortice deadbolt in America. Yes, in a lighter moment I was thinking about that too. :) I think you have to be a bit handy with a chisel to install them though. And I imagine getting spare keys cut is going to be a bit more difficult...
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Postby thertel » 4 Oct 2004 15:34

Those are the problems I've been encountering, Where to get them over here, or where to order them, and getting the keys cut. Setting them in the door wont be to hard, I know a master carpenter who could do that for me.

Thomas
He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster.
And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you.
~Friedrich Nietzsche
thertel
 
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Postby MrB » 4 Oct 2004 15:45

I imagine you could order mortice lever locks from one of the various .co.uk websites that do mail order. As far as cutting keys goes, if you can get some blanks by mail order you can cut duplicates yourself with a file. It just takes some time and patience. In fact, that is sometimes how the keys are duplicated in the U.K.
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Postby toomush2drink » 4 Oct 2004 16:21

Got your mind set on any type of mortice deadlocks ? If you get stuck i may be able to help out and could also provide some key blanks for the said locks. Yes you do have to be handy with a chisel but if you get
decent locks like a chubb 3g114 they come with a good template in the box. I think fitting the strike is the hardest part.
I like your thinking as it would definately confuse most would be burglars stateside and like you say they wouldnt have a clue how to overcome it even with a drill. :wink: .
Take a look about here for anything you may fancy http://www.lockcentre.com/home2.cfm their prices arent to bad and it will give you an idea as to how much etc. When they mention lockcase sizes they normally mean the depth into the door so if you have a panelled door you dont really want an 87mm (3")more like a 67mm(2.5")
I hope that makes sense :D
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Postby Chucklz » 4 Oct 2004 16:46

For marking strikes, here is something I've used for the three doors that I've installed locks on. Open the door, and extend the bolt of the lock. Put a piece of masking tape on the insdide door frame, right where the bolt would touch it if you attempted to close the door. Now close the door (gently) to the tape, and mark the top and bottom of the bolt. (also gently, especially if the wood is soft).Transfer these measurements to find out where vertically you must drill for the strike. To locate horizontal measurements, tape a bit of carbon paper (if you can find it) over the door, close the door, and attempt to extend the bolt. Open the door, carefully remove carbon paper. You should now know where the strike should be located. I know that in essense, what I described is "measuring twice" but have you priced replacing door frames recently?
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Postby Romstar » 4 Oct 2004 18:24

Put lip gloss on all bolt faces, and latches.

Close door gently. Operate latches and bolts.

Open door, and look for marks.

Cut there.

Romstar
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Postby CaptHook » 4 Oct 2004 20:46

Yep, the lipstick method is the way to go. Just remember not to mark the strikes with your weight against the door, or you will end up closing it the same way. I like to close the door on a matchbook cover for a little extra room (between door and stop), then mark the strike.
Chuck
Did you hear something click?

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Postby HeadHunterCEO » 4 Oct 2004 21:22

ULTRAMAX

good mark up

easy install
Doorologist
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Postby toomush2drink » 5 Oct 2004 5:44

What colour lipstick do i need ? Ive only got a nice bright red, is that ok ? :lol:
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Postby Romstar » 5 Oct 2004 6:15

toomush2drink wrote:What colour lipstick do i need ? Ive only got a nice bright red, is that ok ? :lol:


Bright red in any shade tends to stain easily, and the oils flow easily in creases give a bleeding effect.

A nice pear or frosted pink is preferred. Or, if the base colour allows it, a gloss that will simply highlight and enhance the natural colour.

Are we done sounding like beauty advisors now? Use something that won't stain where you don't want it too. :roll:

Romstar
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Postby davidgjr » 5 Oct 2004 9:13

I like the ultramax locks too for the same reason headhunter does. Around here you could have the most secure locks in the world, but these rednecks will still break a window or whatever it takes to get in. Most of my customers don't want to spend too much on locks. Bizarre as it seems, on a new house compared to the roof, appliances, flooring, and so forth this probably the least expensive item that is skimped on tremndously, as I have found anyway. This is off topic, but since we are talking a little about this, it may help some one. If you want to practice drilling, measuring, and so forth I used a 2X8 piece of wood to get the marks and so forth correct. I bought an 8ft piece and cut it into 6 pieces and mounted them in a vice. If you have any carpentry/measuring skills after a few times you really dont need the paper template (at least I didnt). I use a combination square (buy a good one - the lip on mine gets past the bevel) and carefully mark the holes and use a center punch and drill a small pilot hole on all holes to be drilled. Double check tham and drill. I have found at walmart childrens lipstick that is water soluble and marks pretty good on the casing. It wipes right off. My kids had it and I tried it and it works great and comes off easy.
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Postby toomush2drink » 5 Oct 2004 10:33

Im not sure if you get them over the water but here in the uk you can get a mortice jig. It clamps on the door and is powered ny your drill and cuts out the lock body and the face plate with interchangeable cutters only requiring you to drill the key hole and chisel out the corners on the face plate. It takes the risk out of splitting the door when drilling and the trouble you sometimes get trying to chisel a knot in the wood. Ok a good woodworker, carpenter or joiner can probably beat it on speed but it produces excellent results. It really comes into its own fitting a few of the same locks as you can "save" the settings and just transfer it to another door and away you go.They also do cutters for aluminum so those pesky shopfront doors can be done with it.
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