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plug shims

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

plug shims

Postby Rickthepick » 20 Nov 2009 11:15

anyone used those thin metal shims you can push in the back of the plug to retain the shear line?

If you wanted to make a key for a lock you are struggling to pick you can use a blank key or pick to lift the pins from back to front and push the shim in further each time you hit the shear line.

Bit harder to use on locks with serrated pins and spools. Will not work on seperate sidebars although you can retain the pins and then just pick the sidebar wafers
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Re: plug shims

Postby ElAbogado » 20 Nov 2009 13:27

Rickthepick wrote:anyone used those thin metal shims you can push in the back of the plug to retain the shear line?

If you wanted to make a key for a lock you are struggling to pick you can use a blank key or pick to lift the pins from back to front and push the shim in further each time you hit the shear line.

Bit harder to use on locks with serrated pins and spools. Will not work on seperate sidebars although you can retain the pins and then just pick the sidebar wafers


The beauty of the curved shim stock is that when the edge gets damaged (and it will) you can trim it off with scissors and it's good to go again. Cheap too, about $4.00 per pack of 20 or so. Normally locksmiths use a key blank that matches the keyway to shim locks, as it works much better than using a pick. I have noticed that certain import locks can be shimmed from the front. (not good)
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Re: plug shims

Postby raimundo » 3 Dec 2009 9:02

at this storage locker place I know, they have little brass padlocks that all have "see the manager" bossed on them. Used when someone hasn't paid the bill. I noticed that these little padlocks can be shimmed from the front. but as its a padlock and you are putting the shim in the front, you will need to use a pick rather than a keyblank.
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Re: plug shims

Postby Tyler J. Thomas » 3 Dec 2009 10:33

You can shim interchangeable cores at the control shear line once the plug's scalp is removed. Neat little trick, especially if you've got a few replacement scalps.
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Re: plug shims

Postby locknpawn » 3 Dec 2009 22:01

yes this is a very comon tool used by locksmiths... but when the shim get a bur on it it will hang on the springs in the lock core and will ne hard to move in the lock. throw it away and get a new one the cost for the time spent on a bent shim is not worth it..
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Re: plug shims

Postby raimundo » 4 Dec 2009 9:06

you can hold the shim in tension against the top pin while you lift it and by this method you will surely rough up the delicate edge of the shim. or you can use the tap tap tap method where as you slowly allow the pin to ride down the front of blank, your finger is tap tap tap ing on the end of the shim.

don't try this method until after you have got the first pin in line separated, this pin will hold the shim in after its separated and the tap method will work well for the rest of the pin.s
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Re: plug shims

Postby LocksmithArmy » 4 Dec 2009 17:39

nice tip rai :wink:
thanks
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Re: plug shims

Postby Tyler J. Thomas » 8 Dec 2009 16:55

If you're having difficulty getting the last few pins to shim, pick the rest of the way. A lot of worn, dirty (big factor), and "dry" locks can be a real chore to shim completely. If I'm having to shim a lot of locks, I'll keep the pick gun handy to get those last few chambers if need be. Be forewarned, raking the lock without the tail piece, cam, or retainer can actually pull the plug out, sending top pins and springs flying everywhere. It's best to SPP or use a pick gun in this instance - virtually anything that won't pull on the pins/plug.
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