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Lock Bumping Hammer

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Re: Lock Bumping Hammer

Postby ericcub7 » 7 Mar 2010 22:19

Is it crucial to have a lock bumping hammer when lock bumping? Or is it unneeded and I can save $ 25 by not purchasing one?
:?: :?:
:idea:
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Re: Lock Bumping Hammer

Postby Schuyler » 7 Mar 2010 22:55

handle of a screwdriver
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Re: Lock Bumping Hammer

Postby nostromo » 7 Mar 2010 23:35

I teach a nondestructive entry course and have tried all kinds of bump hammers, trying to settle on the one hammer that seems to work for most people. Since the classes have 24 students and I have to schlep a lot of other stuff along, size and weight are a consideration. Some students have brought various commercial hammers with them, like Petersons and Tomahawks. Improvised hammers are offered, too, like batons and clawhammer handles.

In the class, about 30 minutes is spent on 'inertial picking' like picking guns and buymp keys. One horizontally mounted Titan deadblot cylinder with 5 pins is clamped to the table in front of each pair of students and they take turns.

Observations on effectiveness after about 15 minutes of practice:

- Carpenter chisels with tips blunted work 50%, lots of smacked fingers.
- 10" lengths of duct-tape wrapped 1 x 2 lumber work 50%
- Tub stopper on length-trimmed wreath hanger works 50%
- Thin plastic handle with light PVC rectangle end works 25%
- Commercial hammers work 75%

Success rates go down if the lock is handheld, not mounted or is loose in the frame- like a KIK that's been beaten on as a demo. The students tend to be aggressive.

Now, the commercial hammers are used by the folks that brought them and have SOME practice with them already. There's a lot to be said for using the right tool for the job. If you have the money, I'd say go for a Peterson. And use bump keys made specifically for the job, like 'minimal movement' ones. That way you know you are working with the right tools and can focus on your technique.

Schuyler, as always, is 'bang on' about screwdriver handles. Pun intended. Once people get enough practice to avoid smacking their fingers they get confident, start delivering the proper hit, and apply the right amount of tension, and their sucess rate improves.

My class is an overview that covers three days worth of spp, raking, bypass methods, non-destructive entry, legal aspects, and vehicle entry - so we can;t spend much time on any one subject. I'm sure if you took more time than they get (15 min) for practice you would do well.

After trial and error, the chisels offered for practice are fairly lightweight and have rounded one-inch thick wood handles with thin blades. Any kind of unusual shaping such as is used to improve grip and torque for screwdrivers will present a variety of contact surfaces as a hammer. Which makes it hard to be consistent unless you hold it the same way every time with the handle at the same position.

If you don;t go the commercial route, get the cheapest screwdriver-like tool at the dollar store or Harbor Freight that you can, and wrap some duct tape around the handle.

Let me say this, though. After the first few locks what are you going to do? It's like using a powered pick gun. Yes, the locks open, but the skill required is much less than single pin picking or even raking.

What is your purpose in bumping, what are you going to pick next? You'll need more tools and skills to deal with non-residential locks. When you order your keys and hammer, get yourself some picks and tension wrenches, too. You'll graduate to them pretty quickly.
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Re: Lock Bumping Hammer

Postby Schuyler » 7 Mar 2010 23:47

That was an epic answer, nostromo! - I feel a little bad for my brevity now :P
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Re: Lock Bumping Hammer

Postby nostromo » 8 Mar 2010 0:01

Well, you have ten times as many posts!
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Re: Lock Bumping Hammer

Postby Schuyler » 8 Mar 2010 0:15

Hahaha, fair enough!
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Re: Lock Bumping Hammer

Postby Rickthepick » 8 Mar 2010 10:37

I really would just forget bumping altogether, i have never bumped a lock on a job.

If your not too good at picking invest in some quality rakes instead. Far more successful than bumping and looks more professional too
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Re: Lock Bumping Hammer

Postby sugurfoot » 20 Mar 2010 20:33

I guess that's why your Rick the Pick and not Rick the Bump?
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Re: Lock Bumping Hammer

Postby Rickthepick » 21 Mar 2010 4:12

sugurfoot wrote:I guess that's why your Rick the Pick and not Rick the Bump?

:lol: :lol: :lol:
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Re: Lock Bumping Hammer

Postby Legion303 » 21 Mar 2010 5:19

nostromo wrote:Success rates go down if the lock is handheld, not mounted or is loose in the frame


And if your students can tell you why this is, then they have an excellent understanding of bumping physics 101. :)

-steve
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Re: Lock Bumping Hammer

Postby mcm757207 » 22 Mar 2010 13:42

I honestly never had much luck bumping open locks until I got around to purchasing a commercial hammer. Made a pretty big difference for me. I suppose part of it was also just getting the tension down; I have the most success by not keeping a constant turning force but rather trying to time the rotation just right (swing-'n-turn, swing-'n-turn, etc.).
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Re: Lock Bumping Hammer

Postby Eyes_Only » 22 Mar 2010 16:09

I made mines out of fiberglass by curing it in resin/acetone when I had easy access to such chemicals. I think you can do pretty much the same thing by cutting a strip out of a aftermarket car bumper. I also made the head of the hammer out of two layers of a kitchen cutting board.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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