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by Buzo » 15 Aug 2012 22:38
I have a Schlage lock at work that I need to re-key to our existing master key. I have re keyed dozens of locks here at work, but have never come across this particular style and for the life of me I can't figure out how to pull the plug from the shell.  having looked at it closely I don't see an inner sleeve like an SFIC and am not aware of any used in my buliding. Can anyone familiar with this lock please tell this amateur how to get the plug out of the shell??  Thanks in advance! [url] https://picasaweb.google.com/1094750329 ... 7072312770 [/url]   
Its all about the feeling in that instant when you realize... The plug turned!!
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by Squelchtone » 16 Aug 2012 3:11
Hi, That's a Large Format Interchangeable Core from Schlage, there is a special control key that would be inserted in order to retract a pin, sticking out of the core, which makes it stay in the shell. Here's a post about doing so: http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=49081The special extra long control key blank $2.00 http://americankeysupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1744Or you can just pick the lock and then go deeper and retract the control pin using a pick. Some pins are on the left, some on the right, so you will have to figure out which direction to pick the lock in your case. I've been consulting with some other folks (averagejoe and keysman) and they should be here in a minute to offer wisdom on this. Squelchtone
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by averagejoe » 16 Aug 2012 3:41
I checked a regular Schlage LFIC, a Primus LFIC and an Everest LFIC and all pins were on the left side.  As Squelchtone said, the control lug/pin is controlled by a longer key. A key cut to any biting that will open the lock on a control blank will be a control key. From the back And with the control key used  Control is CW by about 10 degrees.  In the first picture, the silver part near the rear is the control lug. It is separate from the normal plug so it cannot be tensioned. Having never picked one of these before I cannot offer a surefire way of picking which end first but I do know that the pin needs to be held up at all times. If you pick it to control and let the last pin down the control lug will snap back.  Perhaps you could cut the tip of a normal key to a 6 depth (what I have heard it is) and then grind down the rest of the key so you can put it in and take it out while leaving enough room for a pick. You would also have to cut the shoulder back, just count until it is under the 7th pin stack and you should be golden. Good luck.
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by Buzo » 16 Aug 2012 16:16
Thanks to everyone for all the advice! This looks like it will be quite the challenge and look forward to figuring it out. I will take pictures of the process and post the results if I am successful.
Its all about the feeling in that instant when you realize... The plug turned!!
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Buzo
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by Buzo » 16 Aug 2012 16:33
I just had another thought... If I impression a working key and then file down the shoulder on a blank to fit a seventh pin and cut the last depth to a six, then copy that new blank with the impessioned key from the shoulder, that should create a working control key should it not??? Just wondering...
Its all about the feeling in that instant when you realize... The plug turned!!
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by Evan » 16 Aug 2012 16:43
Buzo wrote:Thanks to everyone for all the advice! This looks like it will be quite the challenge and look forward to figuring it out. I will take pictures of the process and post the results if I am successful.
@Buzo: Do you have a key that operates that LFIC which is mounted in a rim cylinder housing ? If yes, then you would just have to obtain a control key blank and cut that key onto the control blank... If no, then you will probably have to end up making a special "tool" like the one discussed in this thread: Control key on a Schlage Everest ICYou can check out this thread which describes the different types of LFIC mechanisms and how they work removing ic cores without the master keyHope those topics help... ~~ Evan
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by averagejoe » 16 Aug 2012 17:14
Evan wrote:Buzo wrote:Thanks to everyone for all the advice! This looks like it will be quite the challenge and look forward to figuring it out. I will take pictures of the process and post the results if I am successful.
@Buzo: Do you have a key that operates that LFIC which is mounted in a rim cylinder housing ? If yes, then you would just have to obtain a control key blank and cut that key onto the control blank... averagejoe wrote:As Squelchtone said, the control lug/pin is controlled by a longer key. A key cut to any biting that will open the lock on a control blank will be a control key.
If no, then you will probably have to end up making a special "tool" like the one discussed in this thread: Control key on a Schlage Everest ICaveragejoe wrote:In the first picture, the silver part near the rear is the control lug. It is separate from the normal plug so it cannot be tensioned. Having never picked one of these before I cannot offer a surefire way of picking which end first but I do know that the pin needs to be held up at all times. If you pick it to control and let the last pin down the control lug will snap back.
Perhaps you could cut the tip of a normal key to a 6 depth (what I have heard it is) and then grind down the rest of the key so you can put it in and take it out while leaving enough room for a pick. You would also have to cut the shoulder back, just count until it is under the 7th pin stack and you should be golden.
You can check out this thread which describes the different types of LFIC mechanisms and how they work removing ic cores without the master keyHope those topics help... ~~ Evan
So you pretty much just repeated what I previously posted. 
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by Buzo » 16 Aug 2012 17:38
@Evan
The core I'm refering to is in an entrance door that was installed at the opening of a new addition to our facility in 2007. The door is also operated electronically via a card key reader. The hard keys were never given to us by the contactor as the lock should have been re-keyed to our existing master key upon completion of the project. The card reader recently failed, and parts are on order to repair it, resticting all access through this door from the outside. My intention is to provide access for those with master keyes for the time being. If impressioning the lock doesn't work I will try the other methods described here. Thanks again to eveyrone who has privided information!
Its all about the feeling in that instant when you realize... The plug turned!!
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by Evan » 16 Aug 2012 19:33
@Buzo:
A small oversight during the building commissioning process that had no effect until five years down the road...
~~ Evan
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by Buzo » 16 Aug 2012 23:59
@Evan
Like I said, it is normally controlled electrinically by the card reader which for the moment is non operational. There has not been a need for hard keys up to this point. Until recently, there has not been an in-house locksmith to deal with any of these issues for over a decade. I am currently identifying and attemting to remedy these "small oversights during the building comissioning process".
Its all about the feeling in that instant when you realize... The plug turned!!
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by averagejoe » 17 Aug 2012 0:23
Buzo wrote:I just had another thought... If I impression a working key and then file down the shoulder on a blank to fit a seventh pin and cut the last depth to a six, then copy that new blank with the impessioned key from the shoulder, that should create a working control key should it not??? Just wondering...
Just order a couple control key blanks. Impression a working key on a 6 pin blank and then copy that key on to a control blank. The last depth is precut on those so you only have to worry about the first 6 pins. And by ordering a couple extra blanks you can make a new control key when you get it pinned to your system.
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by Evan » 17 Aug 2012 9:35
averagejoe wrote:So you pretty much just repeated what I previously posted.
@averagejoe: Perhaps, but I also referenced to threads which showed more than you described, including the little gizmo you suggested the OP make to assist him... ~~ Evan
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by averagejoe » 17 Aug 2012 10:31
Evan wrote:averagejoe wrote:So you pretty much just repeated what I previously posted.
@averagejoe: Perhaps, but I also referenced to threads which showed more than you described, including the little gizmo you suggested the OP make to assist him... ~~ Evan
You could have added a "As averagejoe said/pointed out" to actually giving me credit for my contribution instead of just blatantly ignoring what I said and ripping it off for your own reply. You will notice I did that with what Squelchtone said.
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by Buzo » 17 Aug 2012 22:13
Its all about the feeling in that instant when you realize... The plug turned!!
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Buzo
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