Opening up a weathered master padlock

[JoshuaWest]

Hello,

I bought some old Master padlocks (Labeled commercial? and grey instead of blue bands) from a garage sale. (No key, 1 dollar for all, how perfect is that?)

Anyways, They're weathered, rusted, and generally tough to open as they're sticky with (calcium?) buildup.

The one is the worst condition took me 45 minutes to open just once. Since I have several, I'm hoping to open this one up and better learn it's inner workings.

A few questions popped up:

Whats the process to opening these?
---> I used my bench grinder to work off the bumps (rivets through?) but that didnt actually open the lock at all.

Whats the recommended method to clean the other locks?
--> I was thinking just leaving them in CLR for a bit, but not sure if thats a good idea.

What's with the difference between the Commercial grey and Regular blue bands?


Thanks!

[GWiens2001]

Only answering how to clean them...

CLR might work with rust or calcium, but don't know how it will affect the rest of the materials in the lock. Normally, I use WD-40 liberally, rake the pins with a pick a few times to break things up, then use more WD-40 sprayed into the lock from underneath to flush out the stuff. When the WD-40 comes clean, I shoot some brake clean in there to clear out the WD-40, then compressed air to evaporate the brake clean. A little light lubrication after that might help.

We can not discuss destructive entry (cutting or drilling apart) locks outside of the advanced forum.

The difference between the commercial and blue-banded Master locks is (as I understand it) primarily cosmetic. There are supposed to be tighter specs for the commercial, but have not seen it makes much of a difference to me.

Gordon

[dll932]

If you have access to an ultrasonic: Throw it in with acetone for maybe 15 minutes. Remove it and shake it out, let it sit and dry another 15 minutes, then shoot WD40 or TriFlow in it. Work the key (if you have one) in and out a few times. That oughta do it.

[JoshuaWest]

My apologies about immediately asking about a restricted topic, Should know better.


On a similar note, while searching for " 'Master padlock' breakdown " I found this:
viewtopic.php?t=1890

I know it's a fine line, but for the sake of discussion, why are teardowns not considered destructive entry?

Thanks All!

[phrygianradar]

If you have access to an ultrasonic: Throw it in with acetone for maybe 15 minutes. Remove it and shake it out, let it sit and dry another 15 minutes, then shoot WD40 or TriFlow in it. Work the key (if you have one) in and out a few times. That oughta do it.

Good advice! Plus, even though you don't have a key for those particular locks, you can use a different key (with medium or low cuts) of the same keyway to scrub in and out and break the gunk up. Although, like Gordon said, if you have lock picks, (don't know if you do or not) you can simulate the same thing by raking it with one of your picks.

[JoshuaWest]

Awesome advice guys, Thanks.

I do indeed have a set of picks, am getting pretty good with them too if I dare say.
--> So far, standard pin tumblers are opening with ease, am having troubles finding something with a security pin in it, but the hunt continues.
These dirty old locks have proved to be my biggest challenge, and their dirty enough that everything is seizing and scraping etc. Really hard to get feedback, feels.. gummy.


Wd40 shouldn't be used as the only lubricant, right?
--> Read that somewhere, not sure if I'm remembering correctly.

[GWiens2001]

Correct on WD-40.

For cheap priced locks with security pins, go to ACE Hardware and buy their ACE brand padlocks. Any of them. Or you can go to Walmart and buy a Brinks lock.

Gordon