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American series 50 padlock tips

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

American series 50 padlock tips

Postby manskirtbrew » 9 Apr 2014 12:09

From searching around here, I understand the American series 50 is notoriously tough to pick. I'm at the point where I can pick all of my non-security pinned locks, as well as the lock I have with spool pins. Now that I got myself a proper set of picks (the Tuxedo from Sparrows), I'm back to poking at the American series 50 that I have here.

I guess I'm just curious if there are any suggestions for techniques based on what I'm experiencing so far. The serrated pins are giving me fits--I haven't even gotten a false set out of it.

I'm using top-of-the-keyway tension with Sparrow's version of the Peterson pry-bar. I started with very light tension, and have tried medium as well. With heavy tension, the serrated pins are impossible to set.

What I'm seeing is when I start, pins 3, 4, and 5 are all binding. 4 and 5 seem to be binding harder, so I normally start at the back, set pin 5 one click, set pin 4, set pin 3. Check pins 2, 1, still springy, so back to 5. Still binding, so another click. Pin 4 is still binding, one more click. 3, 2, 1 are all springy, so back to 5. Still binding, one more click. Pin 4 still feels like it's binding, but when I try to set it, it oversets. 3, 2, 1 are all still springy. Throughout all of this, the core doesn't budge. I've also tried starting from the front back, with similar results.

I know the answer is "more practice", but any tips on things I could be doing differently are most appreciated.
manskirtbrew
 
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Re: American series 50 padlock tips

Postby KPick » 9 Apr 2014 13:02

These pins were the hardest to learn. The best tip I can give you is that you have to apply light tension. Just enough to bind up the pins. You know you're binding the pins once they begin to set

Secondly, you look for a binding pin. Binding pins are the pins that set when up press them up the cylinders.

The Feel

Third, take your time on each of the key-pins. Most of us mastered these serrated driver/keypins so they are child's play to us, BUT a noobie will need to work on a serrated pins for about ten seconds to as much as 15 (or longer depending on the person) seconds at a time analyzing feedback from EACH keypin.

Don't know what you are looking for when analyzing the key pin? Okay, you will be looking for feedback from your tension wrench. You will be feeling your tension wrench move slightly, (about a centimeter or two) after ever key pin you set.

The Sound:

Sound wise, you will hear small clicks. The sound of the serrated pin moving up the cylinder is (CLICK) for every serration being hit on the edge of the plug chamber, this is the noise you will need to hear for. What you will be looking for is a major (CLICK) out of all the clicks associated with that single key pin. Its more like a click,click,CLICK or click, CLICK or CLICK, depending of the location of the serrated driver in the chamber. (This varies due to the different key pins heights, and different lock sizes).

Try to not overset the pins!

Side Tip:

If you can integrate all of these methods simultaneously on every key pin, you will be successful.


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