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by btraven » 27 Apr 2019 22:44
Do top pins all have to be the same size? I'm just learning how to re-pin locks.
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by Safecrackin Sammy » 28 Apr 2019 7:03
Top pins or "drivers" themselves do not have to be all the same size.
Most manufacturers have a specification for top pin/driver length that is dependent on the sum of your bottom pins and master wafers. The end goal being that there is sufficient but not excessive spring pressure on the bottom pins, and enough room for the lock to operate without crushing the springs.
What brand of locks are you working on and what brand of keying kit do you have?
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by tpark » 28 Apr 2019 10:17
With some locks the drivers are long enough and the pin chamber long enough that the key pins can be changed without changing the drivers. If you've rekeyed the large cores used in some ABUS padlocks, there's an area on the core where you can rotate the plug after pushing a pin in - this gives access to change the pins without changing the drivers, however on Schlage locks (which may have the same keyway) they specify different lengths of driver depending on what key pins you are using. SFIC pin stacks all have exactly the same length. What this means is that you should check the manufacturer's specification, and use the correct springs and drivers.
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by stratmando » 28 Apr 2019 11:16
Just an idea, you could have the deepest cut(9)on key, and a long driver pin, so a Comb Pick can't compress into the Bible(comb proof?)
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by btraven » 28 Apr 2019 11:25
Safecrackin Sammy wrote:What brand of locks are you working on and what brand of keying kit do you have?
It's a Schlage, just the cylinder. No keying kit, just loose pins. Thanks for the response.
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by btraven » 28 Apr 2019 11:43
Another question: Can you use pointy key pins as driver pins? If so, should the pointy end go up or down, towards the spring or towards the key pin?
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by stratmando » 28 Apr 2019 14:22
You want the flatter side of the pins at the shear line, If pointy was at shear line, it would be easier to pick, rotating cylinder would push pin up
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by btraven » 28 Apr 2019 15:24
stratmando wrote:You want the flatter side of the pins at the shear line, If pointy was at shear line, it would be easier to pick, rotating cylinder would push pin up
Thanks
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by Safecrackin Sammy » 28 Apr 2019 18:34
btraven wrote:Safecrackin Sammy wrote:What brand of locks are you working on and what brand of keying kit do you have?
It's a Schlage, just the cylinder. No keying kit, just loose pins. Thanks for the response.
For Schlage full size Classic and Primus cylinders from the factory specs. If your bottom pin/bottom pin plus master is 0,1,2,3 then the driver is .235... 4,5,6 bottom pins use a .200 driver... And 7,8,9 bottom pins use a .165 driver.
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by btraven » 28 Apr 2019 23:10
Safecrackin Sammy wrote:For Schlage full size Classic and Primus cylinders from the factory specs.
If your bottom pin/bottom pin plus master is 0,1,2,3 then the driver is .235...
4,5,6 bottom pins use a .200 driver...
And 7,8,9 bottom pins use a .165 driver.
Thanks. That's for each stack, I presume. I'm hoping I'll eventually learn enough to know where and how to look this kind of stuff up for myself.
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by Raccoon » 2 May 2019 23:08
Also not often mentioned, but Kwikset drivers come in .180 and .160, depending on the size or compactness of the cylinder. Similar situation for a lot of locks.
Just use your best judgement, I tend to use shorter drivers when the bottom pins are the largest 3 or 4 sizes, so as not to over compress the spring... even if the spec doesn't necessarily call for this.
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