Brinks R70 Key Bitting Specifications

[okclm]

New to impressioning and interested in solving the Brinks R70 lock. Read what I could find about process and technique and tips and tricks.

My first attempt didn't work. I ended up filing each stop down to the lowest bitting without the lock opening. When I started, I would file just a few strokes at the location I thought was an impression. But I wasn't sure if that was too little or too much. Then I thought, perhaps it would be better to use the bitting specification and file an impression location down to the next size pin using a micrometer to measure. I wasn't sure but used the Masterlock bitting specification for sizing. But I'm not sure that the Brinks R70 uses those size pins.

So... a couple questions:

1. Does it make sense to try to use the pin specifications and a micrometer to file down to the next depth?

2. Anyone know what the pin lengths are for the Brinks R70?

Thanks in advance!

[1d4]

Can't answer your question on space/depth info for the Brinks. I don't ever encounter those in my area, but I'm curious to know what the answer is.

As for impressioning to spec - yes, absolutely that is a good strategy. It can save a lot of time. I will oftentimes impression using a code machine - progressing down the cuts using vise-grips and a code machine rather than vise-grips and a pippin file. That is the convenience of having an originator on hand I suppose. Using a micrometer to measure your depths works as well - but be sure your spacing is dead on, as the filed cuts have round bottoms rather than flats, and if your spacing isn't dead on, the shallowest part of each cut isn't where the pins end up sitting. So you might be measuring the shallowest part of the cut as your depth, but the pins are actually riding a little bit higher up. I've had my spacings drift a bit when impressioning, so be careful.

[okclm]

Thanks for the feedback. Good to know that I may not be heading down a rabbit hole.

Appreciate your guidance on needing to be spot-on regarding spacing. I didn't mark the initial pin location impressions. Only after I started, did I see ideas from others about using a Sharpie or a scribe to etch a light vertical line on the side of the key where the pin impression was. So I may well have drifted as I filed with each cycle.

I don't have a key for the R80 but I have found a key that fits it. Based on that, I purchased 5 blanks (Hillman 69) at Home Depot. Here's the key blank: https://images.homedepot-static.com/pro ... 4_1000.jpg

I also have a handful of MiniCo C70's. Don't have a key fir them either but the same Hillman 69 fits. So... I may sacrifice one of the C70's to get to the core and see what the pins measure. If they yield something close to the Masterlock bitting spec (https://cdn.masterlock.com/masterlock/r ... _pg_25.pdf) then that might suggest I'm working with pin specs that are viable.

Finally, I got to think that a code machine really helps. At least it takes some of the variables off the table. Or hopefully does if you set up correctly. Do you have a template key cut with depths 0 - 7 to use for the cuts?

[1d4]

Do you have a template key cut with depths 0 - 7 to use for the cuts?

A set of space&depth keys and a key duplicator is one way to originate keys (cut keys to code). Another (more expensive way) is to use a dedicated originating machine. Some common originators out there are machines such as the HPC 1200 Blitz, Framon 2, or ITL9700. However, unless you are a locksmith, it is very hard to justify the expense of one of these machines. A pair of calipers and a file is fine for the hobbyist, and if you want to upgrade from there, a cheap key duplicator and some sets of space&depth keys is more than sufficient.