drilling the retaining pin on brass padlock

[Peter Martin]

I have a brass padlock with no name/info on the body. As an experiment I was going to find out if it has a brass retaining pin to keep the cylinder in place--then drill the pin out and take the cylinder apart.

I was searching for a clue to the pins location--couldn't find it under a magnifying glass. Then I used the wire brush on my grinder... that didn't help matters.

Any clues to how to make a retaining pin appear on brass?

I'll post pics if I can get my digital cam to work again... maybe that will help someone identify the lock type/manufacturer also.

[zeke79]

Most brass body locks use the body itself for the shell of the lock. If you do not see a retaining screw under the shackle and a way for the cylinder to drop out of the bottom of the lock then chances are the lock will not come apart the way you are wanting it to.

[TOWCH]

Is this one of the ones that can't be disassembled? I have no idea if this will work, but you might try acid etching, get some Muriatic acid from the hardware store and lightly apply it to where the pin should be. If you're going to do this, make sure to do it outside in a safe place. Going from memory, brass does not react dangerously with HCl, but better safe than sorry.

[Keyring]

This thread shows one possible position (some way down the thread is a link to 2 photos). The other place I've seen is a sixth hole just above the five pin hole positions. Often you can see some of them with a magnifying glass and by changing the light direction, but I don't know a foolproof way to find then without slightly damaging the appearance of the lock. (I just tried with pencil lead but it wasn't a success).

The best way might be to have two of the same lock. Hack one about with a dremel till the plugs fall out. Then measure the hole position.

[Peter Martin]

it appears to be almost identical to the Master brass body padlock, except with no manufacturing name--probably a cheaper rif-off.

The previous thread has a great pic of the pin holes on the end... and teh retaining pin location. I'll pay closer attention to that area.

Pencil... good idea... now why didn't I think of that???

[digital_blue]

Just a thought, and I've never tried it, but you could probably take a small metal punch and a hammer and gently tap in various places on the edge of the lock where the brass chamber plugs should be. I'm thinking that when you hit one of the plugs it will probably recess a bit giving you a visual of its location.

Just a theory tho...

db

[Mad Mick]

In the linked post, you will find:

...Next comes the tricky part.
If you can't determine the position of the plugs by the slight discolouration of the brass, measure 3.3mm up from the bottom of the lock (Where the key goes), and dead-centre. This is the position of the first plug. WARNING - these plugs are only 2.6mm in diameter and 3.5mm long, so drilling larger/deeper will damage the body/springs underneath. A tip to help in finding the plugs is that they are evenly spaced approx. 3mm on centre. Find the first one and tap it SLIGHTLY with the pin-punch/hammer. Measure 3mm, and tap again. They WILL sink in slightly if tapped enough...

If you use a method similar to the above, you can determine where the plugs are. Using the key (if you have it), measure from the shoulder to the centre of the first cut. (remember, the first cut is the one closest to the bow, and not the tip) Then measure from the first cut, to the second. (this will give the spacing)

Measure from the keyway face (usually flush with the bottom of the lock) up the side where the pins are located, and mark a point at the same length you measured from shoulder to first cut. This should correspond with the plug for the first stack. Mark subsequent points (for the number of key cuts) at intervals you measured between the first and second cuts. Then mark an extra point...this should be the position of the pin holding the plug in place.

I wouldn't go randomly tapping with the punch without first trying to determine a plug position. Since brass is fairly soft, you could end up deforming the lock body over and make removing a plug much more difficult.

HTH.