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Masterlock 911 repinning mistake

Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.

Masterlock 911 repinning mistake

Postby Double_Chin » 2 Oct 2006 1:15

A couple days ago I bought a masterlock 911 "contractor grade" padlock.
Image

I know that this type of lock has some security pins in it, and I wanted to take it apart (it's got a removeable core) and remove some of the security pins so that I could work my way up to a more difficult combo. Well, I opened it up, removed the core, and removed the plug with no problem. I was surprised to find that there were only four pins in the lock althought there was space for five. It appeared as though the lock was set up like this:

|p||p||p|X|p| ( The |p| being pins, and the X being the blank spot without any pin)

There were three pins, and then the blank spot, and then the final pin. I looked at it, put the pins back in the plug in what I thought was the correct order, and put the plug back in the hull. Now, when I tried to use the key I found that it no longer worked. I feel like a dummy. I now realize that the pins must have been place in the lock in the following fashion:

|p||p||p||p|X

So, my question is this, since there is a driver pin floating without a key pin, will I be able to open this lock? I've tried picking it a few times (I've not had much experience with spool pins, but I believe that I've set all the pins) and have had no luck opening the lock. It seems as though all the pins are set, and they may be, but I think that the free floating driver pin may be getting caught up in the sheer line. Is there anything that I might try to do to save this lock?

Thanks,
JAY
Picks before chicks.
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Postby darrel.h » 2 Oct 2006 17:15

I have one of those locks and when I took it apart, there was a pin missing just like yours. The lock seems to work well without it but, I can't figure it out.
If all fails, use nitroglycerine.
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Postby unbreakable » 2 Oct 2006 17:36

You're in trouble, as you now have a driver pin protruding into your plug....

YOu can try lifting the free driver up above the shear line with a pick or wire, then picking the lock, but this can be difficult, if not impossible.

YOu can try picking the lock, and simply ignoring the single driver pin, then, once all the other pins are set, simply turn the cylinder HARD. What will hopefully happen is that the spring will be at the shear line, and as you turn the cylinder, the spring will be broken, thus allowing you to open the lock.

Personally, this would be my last resort, as it could damage the plug....

Focus on trying to lift that driver pin above the shear line.
Image
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Postby HeadHunterCEO » 2 Oct 2006 22:56

or even worse you put the pins back in in the incorrect order.

thats why your key won't work

if your problem was just a driver without bottom pin under it the cylinder would rotate a little until you started shearing the pin off

if the key is fully inseterted yet still not turning at all go buy another $15 padlock and chalk it up to a learning experience.

after you key up a plug always put the key in to make sure your pins are flush.

always note what chambers are loaded when you take it apart.

then reassemble it. The sooner you start operating like this the better off you will be. alot less painful
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Postby Bud Wiser » 2 Oct 2006 23:11

How did you remove the core from this lock? thx
Image
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Postby Double_Chin » 3 Oct 2006 0:30

Well, I removed the core using the key. If you unlock the lock, and look down the hole that the shackles snaps into you'll see the top of an allan key screw. I'm pretty sure it's a 5/64 hex bit. Anyways, you just unscrew that and the faceplate will pop off.

Aaaaaaaaand, I just found this: viewtopic.php?t=6970&highlight=master+core

Good luck.
Picks before chicks.
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Postby Bud Wiser » 3 Oct 2006 0:36

thanks!
Image
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