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Post Brinks Shrouded

Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.

Post Brinks Shrouded

Postby spyeyes007 » 18 Dec 2007 0:22

So it took me a long time but I finally did it, 3 times now the Brinks Shrouded. What would be a good lock to move on to? Or maybe a couple...

Thanks
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Postby Eyes_Only » 18 Dec 2007 0:25

If you're able to do it consistantly and have developed your own comfort level and style to tackle security drivers the next lock I think would be a Schlage deadbolt.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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Postby spyeyes007 » 18 Dec 2007 0:31

well I have done a few schlage deadbolts, any examples everest, primus etc?
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Postby Squelchtone » 18 Dec 2007 0:39

spyeyes007 wrote:well I have done a few schlage deadbolts, any examples everest, primus etc?


a Brinks Shrouded to a Primus.. that's like saying, I can drive that Hyundai, can I take this Ferrari for a test drive?

Get a Master lock No. 532 or No. 576, or a Master Lock ProSeries 6121

If you really want aggravation, buy an American Lock padlock. the 5200 US military version is always a pain, or you can get something at the store like a Series 50 or a Series 1105 aluminum.

Another nice lock you'll want to throw accross the room is an ABUS 55/50

have fun and congrats on the Brinks!

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Postby spyeyes007 » 18 Dec 2007 0:47

Ive picked the 576 its the lock we got issued in basic training. It was actually my first practice lock... is the pro series similar to the everest with the check pin? and is there anywhere you guys buy your locks for cheap?
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Postby Squelchtone » 18 Dec 2007 1:02

spyeyes007 wrote:Ive picked the 576 its the lock we got issued in basic training. It was actually my first practice lock... is the pro series similar to the everest with the check pin? and is there anywhere you guys buy your locks for cheap?


the Everest is the ONLY lock I can think of that uses the checkpin.

The next thing you'll run into are security pins, such as spool, serrated, and mushroom.

After that you'll run into sidebar locks like the Medeco, Fichet, and ASSA V10

the Pro Series is just a 5 pin Master padlock, but loaded with spool pins.

If you want a fun lock to play with, get on the auction sites and buy a BEST mortise cylinder with SFIC core with a control key and a user key. its an interesting design.

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Postby Squelchtone » 18 Dec 2007 1:10

spyeyes007 wrote:Ive picked the 576 its the lock we got issued in basic training. It was actually my first practice lock... is the pro series similar to the everest with the check pin? and is there anywhere you guys buy your locks for cheap?



grumble..edit button grumble..


as for buying locks cheap? this isn't a hobby man.. this is a lifestyle.. a lot of us have sold our cars and children on ebay in order to buy more and more locks.

wanna know how much we spend? look up the words "Kaba Mas safe lock" on a popular auction site...

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Postby spyeyes007 » 18 Dec 2007 1:20

lol i dont think my petersons can do much with the Kaba Mas Safe locks, i looked um up...thats where I would just bust out some C4 lol
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Postby Eyes_Only » 18 Dec 2007 8:57

squelchtone wrote:as for buying locks cheap? this isn't a hobby man.. this is a lifestyle.. a lot of us have sold our cars and children on ebay in order to buy more and more locks.

wanna know how much we spend? look up the words "Kaba Mas safe lock" on a popular auction site...

Squelchtone


Man that is so true. Sometimes after I've spent more than I can afford on tools and locks for my latest projects I'm just amazed that I can still afford to pay off my credit card balance and still avoid starving to death cos I went overboard.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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brinks/american keyway

Postby raimundo » 18 Dec 2007 9:32

Lately I have been picking an american 5200 and useing a little L shaped piece of bobby pin to prevent the tensor from going sideways and binding against the cylinder wall, this has made the level of difficulty go way down. I just use that to fill some of the keyway width at the bottom of the keyway. dont use anything that will bind , it only takes a bit of metal to keep the tensor loose and close to vertical. I make it L shaped so it doesnt go all the way in, and I have a bit to handle it with and take it out.
I have seen photos of someone using a piece of paperclip in the same way, but paperclips have a number of score marks on the edges to grip paper. bobby pins works for me.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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