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Lock specific lubricants

Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.

Postby Eyes_Only » 18 May 2008 1:23

So graphite lube is basically the same as dust and dirt then, attracts moisture? If thats the case thats what I'm gonna tell my customers next time they come in asking if we sell graphite lube for locks.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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Postby Squelchtone » 18 May 2008 4:04

Eyes_Only wrote:A lot of automotive locksmiths I hear likes to use something called Ballistol. I've never tried it myself yet, just bought one off of eBay and waiting for it to get here so I can try it out at work and see if this stuff will be good enough to cure my shop of its almost religious fixation to WD-40.


you're gonna "love" how nice Balistol smells.

it's the freakiest weird smell of any aerosol spray I have ever used. I do know a lock shop in my area that recommends it.

enjoy!
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Postby Eyes_Only » 19 May 2008 7:46

But it works better than or at least just as good as WD-40 right?
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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Postby jpb06080 » 19 May 2008 10:54

I love the locksaver lube. It uses microscopic teflon or something like that.
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Postby CompFX » 19 May 2008 11:58

Graphite is it is a dry powder. So it does turn gummie when it is exposed to moisture.

Heres the problem. You shoot a lock with graphite, it returns to normal operation for awhile. Starts to get stubborn again. Common sense says "well that didnt work, lets try something new. You shoot aerosol lube in there. It might return to operation for a little while until the liquid evaporates and then your left with something the equivalent of a glue ball in a lock.

Putting graphite into a lock that is pregreased from the factory is even more of a headache.

If you lived in the Sarah Desert, yes, power graphite would probably suit your needs better because liquids will evaporate very quickly relatively speaking. However, for the rest of the world, graphite is generally not the way to go.

Houdini Lock lube is my best friend:
http://www.omahawh.com/ProductInfo.aspx ... PI%2011101

I use it on all my locks and everywhere else. It is my duct tape of the lube world. I also spay my tools with it to keep them from rusting. Plus it smells like citrus something or another. Very pleasant smell.

Well thats my two cents.
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Postby J-Hood » 19 May 2008 20:31

Eyes_Only wrote:So graphite lube is basically the same as dust and dirt then, attracts moisture? If thats the case thats what I'm gonna tell my customers next time they come in asking if we sell graphite lube for locks.


You know how a pin cyl works. Just picture the pin chamber with graphite all around the pin. The pin doesn't spin, and through regualr use of a key the pin wears on one line and does so prematurely.

Quick story: Years ago in Florida in my pre-lockie days I was a pool boy and a local kid kept "picking" my storage shed lock and stealing my acid (to make bombs). One day I staked him out and caught him "picking" the lock with a flat head screw driver. It was a cheap DB with a downward sloping key. All the pins were trapped by graphite and at the shear line. :shock: So a little turning pressure and he could lock or unlock the door at will. Had the cops baffled.

I don't like the LockSaver because it smells like some cheap booze almost. Last thing I need is customers complaining I was drinking on the job... then again i could actually drink and then just blame the lube...

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Postby roxylass » 3 Sep 2008 13:58

gt 85 you can get it in bicycle shops.
THE NOON DAY TRAIN WILL BRING FRANK MILLER.
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Postby straightpick » 3 Sep 2008 22:04

WD-40 is not recommended for locks. The problem with it and other petroleum based lubricants it that it will attract dust and dirt due to the fact that after a while it becomes"gummy" in the lock. Locksaver is my all time best lubricant-cleans and lubricates. Any dry type teflon lubricant is good. Most spray wet, the wet part being the carrier liquid, which quickly evaporates and leaves the teflon on the parts. Super Lube Dry, PT Blaster, etc. If you want a graphite based lube try LockEase. Same principle but with graphite in suspension instead of teflon. Most people don't like it because the graphite adheres to the key which will then transfer to your pocket. For cleaning old lubricant from locks you might want to try electrical contact cleaner spray to flush out the cylinder. Easier on body than brake cleaner spray.
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Postby Raymond » 4 Sep 2008 22:39

Wow! I cannot resist a lock lube discussion.

WD40 was invented for the military. It was painted inside of missle casings to remove moisture. When the missle was taken up in the air, changes in temperature and pressure caused the moisture in the air to condense and foul the electronics. "WD" means "water displacement."
WD40 is a great solvent, lube while it is wet, cleaner, removes adhesive lables, cures arthritis, etc.... It is great during your lock emergency. But, you must clean it out and follow up with something better and longer lasting. It is such a good solvent that it will wash away any other lubricant on your lock or hinges. When it evaporates it will leave your lock or hinge rubbing metal on metal. I have seen many examples of poeople seeing black metal dust wearing off and them thinking that it was graphite.

If I have the opportunity to take a lock cylinder apart, clean it with brake cleaner or something similar, I prefer dry graphite inside the lock as the primary lube. I do not like just squirting it in the keyway. If you cannot take the lock apart then something like Super Lube Dry is great. It sprays in with a very quick drying carrier that evaporates and leaves a visible white coating of teflon powder. (very clean) However locks lubed with graphite always seem to last longer and work more smoothly.
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