Lock Picking 101 Forum
A community dedicated to the fun and ethical hobby of lock picking.
       

Lock Picking 101 Home
Login
Profile
Members
Forum Rules
Frequent Forum Questions
SEARCH
View New Posts
View Active Topics


Live Chat on Discord
LP101 Forum Chat
Keypicking Forum Chat
Reddit r/lockpicking Chat



Learn How to Pick Locks
FAQs & General Questions
Got Beginner Questions?
Pick-Fu [Intermediate Level]


Ask a Locksmith
This Old Lock
This Old Safe
What Lock Should I Buy?



Hardware
Locks
Lock Patents
Lock Picks
Lock Bumping
Lock Impressioning
Lock Pick Guns, Snappers
European Locks & Picks
The Machine Shop
The Open Source Lock
Handcuffs


Member Spotlight
Member Introductions
Member Lock Collections
Member Social Media


Off Topic
General Chatter
Other Puzzles


Locksmith Business Info
Training & Licensing
Running a Business
Keyways & Key Blanks
Key Machines
Master Keyed Systems
Closers and Crash Bars
Life Safety Compliance
Electronic Locks & Access
Locksmith Supplies
Locksmith Lounge


Buy Sell Trade
Buy - Sell - Trade
It came from Ebay!


Advanced Topics
Membership Information
Special Access Required:
High Security Locks
Vending Locks
Advanced Lock Pick Tools
Bypass Techniques
Safes & Safe Locks
Automotive Entry & Tools
Advanced Buy/Sell/Trade


Locksport Groups
Locksport Local
Chapter President's Office
Locksport Board Room
 

Paging Snowyboy (and other cutaway makers)

Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.

Paging Snowyboy (and other cutaway makers)

Postby mhole » 8 Apr 2010 12:35

I'm nearing the end of my 1st successful cutaway project, a Tri-Circle 365 padlock, basing my cuts on the very nice abus padlock snowyboy has posted a few times. I have completed the large cut in the body of the lock which shows the core, and the straight cut to show the spring and latches which retain the shackle, as well as the small (1.8mm) cuts which reveal the individual springs and security pins.

But, I still need to do the small cuts in the plug. How do you recommend doing these? I'm concerned as these cuts are pretty deep for such a small cutter, and I want them to line up nicely with the corresponding cuts in the lock body - do you line up the cuts with the plug in position? Do you pre-cut with a small saw or anything to work the cutter less hard?

Any tips greatfully recieved! I'll post some pics soon when I get the camera out.
mhole
 
Posts: 485
Joined: 1 Jul 2007 14:36

Re: Paging Snowyboy (and other cutaway makers)

Postby SnowyBoy » 8 Apr 2010 15:10

Hey!

The cuts on the pin channels are 1.5mm. You should do more shallow sweeps than a few deep ones. Just be gentle with it and it will be ok. The noise coming off the cutter is a good indication as to what it's going through.

All my cut's are done by eye. It helps if you have a good light behind the lock and the cutter spinning. Always lock off the table on the axis you are not working on, this will stop drag and ensure your cuts are dead straight.

:)
What a load of old BiLocks!!!!

I'm probably 0 for 400 in looking for safes behind wall paintings
SnowyBoy
 
Posts: 1075
Joined: 15 Nov 2006 20:15
Location: London UK

Re: Paging Snowyboy (and other cutaway makers)

Postby mhole » 9 Apr 2010 1:15

I locked the slides (you'd mentioned that in another thread) and it made a big difference, like you say, the noise of the cutter changes very obviously when something is moving, or not tightened down nicely.

I'm coming at this as a wood worker who has tinkered with metal work, so the gauging by eye is cool with me, but I'm mostly sweating the cuts on the plug and body not lining up nicely - I worry that I can do both by eye, and they'll look fine apart, but cockeyed when assembled.
mhole
 
Posts: 485
Joined: 1 Jul 2007 14:36

Re: Paging Snowyboy (and other cutaway makers)

Postby SnowyBoy » 14 Apr 2010 11:38

Forgot to say that you should lap material away with the cutter.

I mean as in if you are approaching a face you want to mill on the left side of the cutter (with the cutter going clockwise), you have to put the cutter at the back of that face and mill towards you. You should never push the cutter into the point it is cutting at (in the direction of the spin).

The opposite applies if you are milling the face on the right of the cutter....... you should mill away from you.

I think I sent you a diagram of what I meant at one point?
What a load of old BiLocks!!!!

I'm probably 0 for 400 in looking for safes behind wall paintings
SnowyBoy
 
Posts: 1075
Joined: 15 Nov 2006 20:15
Location: London UK

Re: Paging Snowyboy (and other cutaway makers)

Postby loki-aka » 14 Apr 2010 18:30

Snowyboy is correct. One should feed material (object being cut) against the direction the blade or bit is rotating.
Tooling is designed with this in mind. Feeding with the direction of rotation is dangerous, as the blade can "grab"
the work piece (material) and send it flying as a projectile and maybe even "pull" your fingers into the blade path.

By the way, I hope others remember to use shop glasses when working. Even the most beautifi cutaway
isn't worth putting your eye out over.
loki-aka
 
Posts: 140
Joined: 4 Dec 2009 18:23


Return to Locks

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests