Changing out an Everest. Please help.

[skyiscoolbeans]

Hello all. This is more of a question on locksmithing rather than picking. I'm in a bit of a bind. I need to replace a Schlage Everest with the most secure lock that can fit in its place (I'm hoping an Abloy Protec or something similar can). I believe this is called changing the lock's "core" or "cylinder". The thing is, I don't know what size/model/type/length/style/options/etc. of core/cylinder to order that can replace the Everest I have. I'm also not even sure if I can get away with replacing just the core/cylinder or if I'll have to replace the entire deadbolt body. I'm also not even sure if I'm terming things correctly.

The local locksmith when installing this Everest lock, refused (to a massive degree) to install something more secure such as an Abloy, etc., stating that "They break too easily" and that the Everest "can't be picked". Unfortunately the Everest he installed has since been compromised by a picker/bumper and evidence relating to a court case has been stolen on several occasions. I've attached four pictures of the Everest lock I'm talking about so hopefully someone can look at them and shed some info on what core/cylinder or lock I'm going to need to replace the Everest or if I'll have to change the whole body, etc.

I'm really stuck here. I have no idea what it can be replaced with and my locksmith is out of the question. Please see this and weigh in if you can: http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/1503/4lse.jpg

Thanks for your time.

[unlisted]

Call another locksmith. >???

I will say this- Your best option would be to fully replace the lock, not just the "core" Easier (probably overall cheaper) and much quicker.

[skyiscoolbeans]

I'm in a rural part of Alaska. There's only one locksmith here, sadly. But other than that, I feel replacing the whole lock would be beyond my sill level. Especially since the hole is cut for a small lock rather than the size of a Protec, etc. I don't have the tools or the know how to do that, unfortunately. =(

[EmCee]

I can only sympathise with you. It's hard to understand why any supplier - locksmith or otherwise - would refuse to do what the customer wants. What happened to 'the customer is always right'. Sounds like there is a nice opening for another locksmith to set up in your area - one who would try to satisfy the customer's needs rather than refusing.

[MacGyver101]

Unfortunately the Everest he installed has since been compromised by a picker/bumper and evidence relating to a court case has been stolen on several occasions.

You're likely in a better position to judge that than the rest of us -- but I have to admit, picking/bumping wouldn't be my first assumption in this situation. I don't see any obvious marks on the face of the cylinder, so I'd be surprised if it had been repeatedly bumped open... and, while a Schlage is certainly pickable, that's not people's usual first means of entry.

To answer your question, I'm sure there's a Schlage Primus cylinder that would be a drop-in replacement for the one in your Everest deadbolt. It's not going to stop someone for hours... but, if I were in your situation, that would eliminate my concerns about someone quickly bumping/picking the lock on the door and sneaking in. (And, let's face it, there's a glass window 6" away from your deadbolt: I think you'll pretty quickly hit the point of diminishing returns on anything too expensive.)

To be honest, though, I'd start with a closer look at your windows, doors, etc.. Trailers aren't often built with the world's best window locks... and I'd find it far more likely that someone's getting in by opening a window or taking advantage of a gap in your door, rather than picking the lock. (Just my $0.02.)

[femurat]

To be honest, though, I'd start with a closer look at your windows, doors, etc.. Trailers aren't often built with the world's best window locks... and I'd find it far more likely that someone's getting in by opening a window or taking advantage of a gap in your door, rather than picking the lock. (Just my $0.02.)

Add my € 0.02 to yours

[Evan]

Unfortunately the Everest he installed has since been compromised by a picker/bumper and evidence relating to a court case has been stolen on several occasions.

You're likely in a better position to judge that than the rest of us -- but I have to admit, picking/bumping wouldn't be my first assumption in this situation. I don't see any obvious marks on the face of the cylinder, so I'd be surprised if it had been repeatedly bumped open... and, while a Schlage is certainly pickable, that's not people's usual first means of entry.

To answer your question, I'm sure there's a Schlage Primus cylinder that would be a drop-in replacement for the one in your Everest deadbolt. It's not going to stop someone for hours... but, if I were in your situation, that would eliminate my concerns about someone quickly bumping/picking the lock on the door and sneaking in. (And, let's face it, there's a glass window 6" away from your deadbolt: I think you'll pretty quickly hit the point of diminishing returns on anything too expensive.)

To be honest, though, I'd start with a closer look at your windows, doors, etc.. Trailers aren't often built with the world's best window locks... and I'd find it far more likely that someone's getting in by opening a window or taking advantage of a gap in your door, rather than picking the lock. (Just my $0.02.)

+1

There aren't any telltale marks on the cylinder face which would point to being bumped... There aren't even many scratches on it yet from being used...

~~ Evan

[Evan]

Hello all. This is more of a question on locksmithing rather than picking. I'm in a bit of a bind. I need to replace a Schlage Everest with the most secure lock that can fit in its place (I'm hoping an Abloy Protec or something similar can). I believe this is called changing the lock's "core" or "cylinder". The thing is, I don't know what size/model/type/length/style/options/etc. of core/cylinder to order that can replace the Everest I have. I'm also not even sure if I can get away with replacing just the core/cylinder or if I'll have to replace the entire deadbolt body. I'm also not even sure if I'm terming things correctly.

The local locksmith when installing this Everest lock, refused (to a massive degree) to install something more secure such as an Abloy, etc., stating that "They break too easily" and that the Everest "can't be picked". Unfortunately the Everest he installed has since been compromised by a picker/bumper and evidence relating to a court case has been stolen on several occasions. I've attached four pictures of the Everest lock I'm talking about so hopefully someone can look at them and shed some info on what core/cylinder or lock I'm going to need to replace the Everest or if I'll have to change the whole body, etc.

I'm really stuck here. I have no idea what it can be replaced with and my locksmith is out of the question. Please see this and weigh in if you can: http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/1503/4lse.jpg

Thanks for your time.

First off, what on earth are you doing keeping "evidence from a court case" inside what looks to be an RV ?

Keep important and irreplaceable objects in a suitable container to protect them... Even if you had that "evidence" secured in a locked safe inside the RV the RV itself could have been stolen and the safe carried away by persons unknown to be opened elsewhere...

They do have banks in "rural, remote Alaska" yes ? Arrange to keep your "evidence from a court case" in a safe deposit box in the bank vault -- if it is too large to fit in a safe deposit box, ask how much it would cost to keep the item inside the bank vault and if you wrap/secure it in a tamper proof plastic packaging like pallet wrap and sign the wrapping would that be agreeable to the bank...

Don't blame a locksmith who either doesn't sell or isn't interested in Abloy locks for your troubles... You clearly could have added WHATEVER supplemental locks you wanted to that RV door in the form of a reinforced padlock hasp and any kind of padlock you wanted to buy over the internet...

Something just doesn't smell right about this scenario...

~~ Evan

[skyiscoolbeans]

Thanks all. And Evan, you don't understand my larger scenario and I can't provide answers to you other than to say that it's better off in my camper.

Alright, now my question is: Can an Abloy Protec or another high-up deadbolt (now I'm talking the whole lock, not just the cylinder/core) be fit to a door that's only about one inch thick rather than the standard 1 and 3/4" or more? And also, would a larger or new hole in the door have to be cut for it over the existing hole in the door? (Again, you can see that the current deadbolt is smaller than normal and the door has only about a 1.5" hole cut into it where the lock's body is placed in/over: http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/1503/4lse.jpg

Sorry if I seem new to all of this, I am.

[ToolyMcgee]

Unless you are going to install it yourself, you have the answer to your Protec question. Changing out the Everest cylinder with a Primus Key In Knob cylinder will work if you use the Everest's tailpiece. You've got all the pieces except the higher security cylinder and keys already in place.

[datagram]

If you really want to know if the lock was compromised via picking/bumping you could mail it to me and I will examine it; I'm a forensic locksmith.

PM me for more information.

Thanks,
dg

[Josh K]

Thanks all. And Evan, you don't understand my larger scenario and I can't provide answers to you other than to say that it's better off in my camper.

Alright, now my question is: Can an Abloy Protec or another high-up deadbolt (now I'm talking the whole lock, not just the cylinder/core) be fit to a door that's only about one inch thick rather than the standard 1 and 3/4" or more? And also, would a larger or new hole in the door have to be cut for it over the existing hole in the door? (Again, you can see that the current deadbolt is smaller than normal and the door has only about a 1.5" hole cut into it where the lock's body is placed in/over: http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/1503/4lse.jpg

Sorry if I seem new to all of this, I am.

You might be able to if you put a spacer on the inside of the door to even it up.

You could also purchase one and try it out, return it if you can't make it work.

I'd also take DG up on his offer. I'm would be very interested in what he finds out.

[djslacker]

I'm with MacGyver101 on this. A lock is only as strong as the door that it's on, or the surrounding area of the building. You could have a vault door on that RV, but it's still on an RV. All a strong lock means is that a thief is going to look for an easier means of entry, probably a window. I don't think that a stronger deadbolt is your problem. I would look at the RV and find the weakest link and fix it.

[yng_pick]

One thing to make sure of-
Does the bolt have room to be thrown its entire length when the door is closed?

How long has the weatherstripping been cut/damaged next to the bolt?

[Squelchtone]

You know.. at Wal-Mart they sell a Brinks KW1 keyway deadbolt that on the box specifically says it is for RV door thickness. I have however seen tour busses that have a rim cylinder in the door, and a Segal jimmy proof lock on the other side of that rim cylinder. Can you drill more holes in the door? Is the RV leased?

I know what would work for this purpose.. some of those LORI mortise cylinder deadbolts.

OP, check this out:
http://highsecurityconsulting.com/Projects/temp/IMG_2252.JPG

They're about $50 and then you buy whatever cylinder brand you would like to install. In your case I'd recommend a 1 inch cylinder just to keep it low profile.. Medeco 5 pin is an example of a 1 inch deep high security cylinder.

Here's some online site selling some:
http://www.mrlock.com/mfg/ilc/lori.html

or you can hit up ebay and use one and send me the other 3:
http://cgi.ebay.com/4-LORI-DEAD-BOLT-LOCKS-/260603653853

good luck with your project,
Squelchtone