Lock Picking 101 Forum
A community dedicated to the fun and ethical hobby of lock picking.
       

Lock Picking 101 Home
Login
Profile
Members
Forum Rules
Frequent Forum Questions
SEARCH
View New Posts
View Active Topics


Live Chat on Discord
LP101 Forum Chat
Keypicking Forum Chat
Reddit r/lockpicking Chat



Learn How to Pick Locks
FAQs & General Questions
Got Beginner Questions?
Pick-Fu [Intermediate Level]


Ask a Locksmith
This Old Lock
This Old Safe
What Lock Should I Buy?



Hardware
Locks
Lock Patents
Lock Picks
Lock Bumping
Lock Impressioning
Lock Pick Guns, Snappers
European Locks & Picks
The Machine Shop
The Open Source Lock
Handcuffs


Member Spotlight
Member Introductions
Member Lock Collections
Member Social Media


Off Topic
General Chatter
Other Puzzles


Locksmith Business Info
Training & Licensing
Running a Business
Keyways & Key Blanks
Key Machines
Master Keyed Systems
Closers and Crash Bars
Life Safety Compliance
Electronic Locks & Access
Locksmith Supplies
Locksmith Lounge


Buy Sell Trade
Buy - Sell - Trade
It came from Ebay!


Advanced Topics
Membership Information
Special Access Required:
High Security Locks
Vending Locks
Advanced Lock Pick Tools
Bypass Techniques
Safes & Safe Locks
Automotive Entry & Tools
Advanced Buy/Sell/Trade


Locksport Groups
Locksport Local
Chapter President's Office
Locksport Board Room
 

Re-Pinnable Practice Locks Review

Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.

Re-Pinnable Practice Locks Review

Postby LocksportSouth » 18 Dec 2015 10:18

You may have seen my re-pinnable practice lock purchased from eBay. That one was a Euro cylinder, which is great practice for us Brits, however prior to this I actually purchased some practice locks from LearnLockPicking. Those took a long time to arrive to I had ordered that eBay one in the meantime, however a couple of days back the LLP ones finally arrived so I've been able to do a comparison review.

Just a quick note regarding picks - I used the same two (mostly one) picks in this comparison to make it far; that is the SouthOrd Max medium hook (and also the deep hook), along with a standard L tensioner and a double edge one (shown later in photos). These are part of a SouthOrd Max kit that I recently bought to review and will be doing so in a future thread.

To fairly review all the products available, I purchased the 5, 6 and 7 pin practice locks from LLP and will discuss each on it's own merits and collectively - the 7 pin version is a little different and we'll discuss why later in this review. Please note that all products mentioned in this and any other review by me were purchased with my own money and I have no financial, personal or other investment in any of the companies mentioned :).

So, to start the review, let's first have a look at the eBay practice lock:

Image

The lock is a single-sided Euro cutaway, 6 pins, and comes with a key (which works), bag of 30 replacement pins (including driver and key pins, and some spools), and a hex key to remove the grub screws. The screws are easy to remove, no problem there. The cutaway looks nice enough, but is pretty sharp so watch your fingers on those milled edges!

Let's get it pinned up with two standard pins and see how we do!

Image

Adding the pins was a 2 minute job. Grab the hex key, unscrew the small screw at the top of each pin stack (do it one at a time so you don't get the pins mixed up!) and dump each stack onto a pinning mat or tray. Arrange them into Screw>Spring>Driver>Keypin and then move on to the next one. Simples!

Here are the picks that I'll be using for this review - all SouthOrd Max products as I recently bought their M4000B SouthOrd Max pick set to try out, and will be working on a review for that ASAP as well. The picks that I used for this demo were:

SouthOrd Max Medium Hook (Pictured)
SouthOrd Max Deep Hook (Not Pictured)
Standard L tension wrench (twisted 90°) (Pictured)
Double-prong tension tool (Pictured) (I really got on well with this unusual tensioner!)

Image

The cylinder was clamped up in my vice and picked a few times - I wasn't timing and didn't photograph at this stage but it was taking me on average less than 5 secs with 2 standard pins. My observations for picking this lock were as follows:

1. It has a tight keyway! It's a Yale style and you tend to need to angle the pick at probably around 45° towards the pins from straight down. Attempting to pick straight down gets you caught in the keyway. Consequently this adds a bit of a speedbump for the beginner!

2. I've picked this lock with GOSO, SouthOrd and Sparrows picks and I have to say these SouthOrd Max picks are very nice, whilst this isn't a review for the picks I've found that other picks can get caught in the keyway but I didn't have that problem with this one. That said, it's a little rough inside the keyway (likely due to it being milled) so the chances are that your pick may get stuck in there at some point.

3. The rotation of the plug is nice and smooth, and I've found you can use light or heavy tension, both work on this standard cylinder with standard pins. It picks nice and fast once you get used to the odd slanted angle that you need to go at and pick times were minimal - as I mentioned, <5 secs for 2 pins and not too long at all with more pins in the cylinder.

Moving on to three pins:

Image

At this point I started to record which tensioner I was using and my pick timings (calculated by inserting the tensioner, setting a stopwatch on my phone and stopping it after the pick was complete). I haven't recorded a video of this but would be happy to do so if proof is needed :).

Three pins results:
Tensioner: Double Prong
Attempt 1: 31 secs (including one reset due to overset)
Attempt 2: 15 secs
Attempt 3 using L wrench: 33 secs

Four pins results:
Tensioner: Double Prong
Attempt 1: 22 secs (Including one reset)
Attempt 2: 17 secs (including one reset)
Attempt 3 using L wrench: 11 secs (!!)

Image

Five pins results:
Tensioner: Double Prong
Attempt 1: 15 secs
Attempt 2: 7 secs
Attempt 3: 30 secs
Attempt 4 using L wrench: 6 secs

Image

Six pins results:
Tensioner: Double Prong
Attempt 1: 26 secs
Attempt 2: 44 secs
Attempt 3: 11 secs
Attempt 4 using L wrench: 2:43 mins
Attempt 5 using L wrench: 1:19 mins

Not sure why it took me so much longer with the L wrench and 6 pins. I kinda hit a brick wall and lost my touch.
Note regarding the above results: I'm already very experienced with this particular cylinder so I do know the binding order etc and being a cutaway I can see the pins move and set, plus it's clamped up in a vice at the ideal angle and I'm able to wrap my hand around the cylinder etc so this is all really "best case" scenario.

So, that's it for the 'old' practice cylinder. I'm not in the practice of giving review scores, but I'd say that it's a very nice practice cutaway to learn about how the internals of locks function and to help you really get a grip on how pin movement and pin setting looks.

So! Moving on to the new locks from LLP :)

Here's the three of them in their boxes:

Image

The packaging is basic, just these small flimsy cardboard boxes with the lock cylinder, keys and bag of pins dumped inside, but that's fine I guess for this sort of product.

Here are the locks unboxed:

Image

They appear from the front to be similar to the pin tumbler nightlatch style locks that we have here in the UK but have much thicker backs. I'm not sure what you'd call these locks as I believe they are more prevalent in the US than the UK (which would make sense as they are from a US store).

Each lock comes with the cylinder, a set of keys (2 each) a hex key for repinning the cylinders and a huge bag of replacement pins - the official website states that the exact contents vary depending on whether you bought the standard 5 pin lock (springs, driver pins, master pins and standard key pins as well as spare grub screws), 6 pin lock (All the above plus Spools), or 7 pin (All the above plus Serrated). However, looking through my three pin bags they all appear to be identical and I can see spools and serrated pins in all bags - not sure if this is the norm and whether you will get the same, but that's my experience.

The cylinder covers are protected by a small piece of blue sticky film:

Image

Revealing a nice brushed steel effect on the front of the cylinder:

Image

Here you see the three keys. Notice how they ALL have only 5 cuts?:

Image

There's a good reason for that: All of the cylinders are only pinned with 5 pins, and all of the keys support only 5 pins.
Now, of course you can put 6 pins in the 6 pin cylinder and 7 pins in the 7 pin cylinder. Just be aware that these come from the shop only pinned with 5 pins, and no matter which one you buy, they all come with only a 5-cut key. Not a big deal for a picker but I just thought you should be aware.

"factory default", all three versions come pre-pinned for the key with standard spring, driver and key pins, no master pins and 5 pins per lock.
Note also how one of the keys looks different whereas the other two look the same - the silver one is for the 7 pin cylinder and has a different, and much more restrictive keyway more reminiscent of Euro / Yale style locks.

The front of all three locks:

Image

Top down: 5, 6, and 7 pin respectively:

Image

The three bags of pins:

Image

Keys in and unlocked, from the front:

Image

From the back:

Image

I emptied one of the pin bags out, here's a sample of the included contents. You can see key pins, driver pins, springs, serrated and spool pins and some master pins too, as well as spare grub screws (in black):

Image

Just a quick warning regarding these cylinders: they all have two milled channels, one on each side (left and right if you hold the cylinder so that the keyway faces down (or up)), around 2 or 3 mm cut right from the back (actuator side) through to around 1cm short of the front plate. I dunno if these are "factory" cuts for installing the lock, or something to do with the re-pinnable nature of these locks specifically, but those channels are RAZOR sharp - I've given myself a few "papercuts" of varying nastyness just HOLDING these. DO NOT TOUCH THE MILLED CHANNELS!. Yeesh!

Image

I took the liberty of sorting one of the pin bags, which took forever so I only did it with one bag. Sorted into all the pin groups: Springs (far left), standard drivers (second left), standard key pins (middle), serrated (second right) and then spools and master pins (far right). Grub screw at the middle bottom:

Image

Springs and pretty drivers:

Image

Pretty keypins and serrated:

Image

Serrated, Spools and pretty masters (Some of the masters may just be really short driver pins? Not sure...):

Image

Screws!

Image

I then de-pinned all the cylinders, which was as painless as the Euro from earlier in this post (actually quite painful due to those milled side grooves :():

Image

As previously mentioned, all three cylinders have 5 pin stacks populated, each with one spring, one driver and one key pin, held in with one grub screw. The screws aren't actually as smooth as in the Euro and I had to be very careful not to accidentally cross-thread the screws into the screw-milled pin stack hole. Also for some reason the springs all look different and stick out of the hole a long way, meaning that the screw must be used to push the spring down and must be screwed in under spring tension, unlike the Euro.

5 pin and 6 pin locks:

Image

7 pin lock:

Image

The key bittings for these locks are:
5 pin: 56334
6 pin: 62421
7 pin: 44656

To start picking, I then pinned up the 5 pin lock with two pins. Note how the springs stick out a long way:

Image

Ready to go!

Image

I have to say that, even clamped up in the vice, I found these locks MUCH harder than the cutaway. I didn't get many photos and didn't time myself due to the fact that I spend ages trying to get used to picking them, and my timed sessions were running into many minutes with no success. This is probably due to me A) not already knowing the binding order of these locks, and B) not being a cutaway I was unable to see when pins were setting, and still don't have the "feel" yet to know when the pins are set.

On my side was the fact that these locks have MAHOOSIVE keyways, you could drive a bus in there :D.
I did find though that the double prong tension wrench just wouldn't work in these locks, so I switched to the L wrench from before to pick all of these. I also switched more between the medium and deep hook esp. with the later two (6 and 7 pin) trying to get them to go.

It did take me quite some time to get the hang of this new keyway and layout, but once I did, I was consistently picking the 2 pin version in around 5 secs or less, up to 10 or 15 on rare occasions (tested 10 times in a row to make sure it wasn't a fluke).

I then pinned it up for 3 pins:

Image

Picked in around 1-2 mins per attempt. Tested three times

Then moved up to 4 pins:

Image

And finally 5 pins:

Image

Oh yeah :D

Honestly I didn't see much diff. in time between 3, 4 and 5 pins. Maybe I was just getting better each time and, had I gone back to 3 pins, I'd have been doing it in 10 secs. But generally 1-2 mins was my average time, with around 3-4 attempts per pinup (2 attempts for the 5 pin).

Quick shot of my work desk for the hell of it. In the clamp is a picked 4 or 5 pin (can't remember) variant:

Image

I found that despite the wide keyways, these can be a challenge to pick, especially with no view of the pins moving. However once you get the hang of it, it's not too bad - at least with this key bitting. For fun I also put a single spool in to the 5 pin cylinder, just one pin but was that hard to pick! Spools are not my friends, heh. I didn't feel any counter rotation or anything like that so I dunno what I was doing wrong. Note that if you change the driver pin, you also need to change the key pin to get the height right - in my first attempt to re-pin this, I left the old key pin in and it was so short that even with the spool in, the stack was already below the shear line and the plug moved freely. Oops!

I then pinned up with the 6 pin and 7 pin cylinder with their standard 5 pins, however despite quite a lot of time picking I was unable to get either of these to go - I blame the annoying bitting on the 6 pin, and the nasty Euro-style keyway on the 7 pin (although, let's be honest, it's probably more than likely just my poor skill, haha!).

I did also find that my picks, being the "Euro" thickness (black handle) of the SouthOrd max range (they also do grey handled US style picks), they tend to "flop" sideways in the keyway and that makes it hard to apply firm pressure to the pick when picking the pins under heavier tension. I did try to let up on the tension also but just couldn't seem to get the pins to pop into place for some reason.

Overall, I'd say that these LLP practice locks are definitely worth buying - they come with a mountain of pins and everything you need to re-pin them, as well as keys and although they are moderately expensive for such a set ($39.50 for the 5 pin, $44.50 for the 6 pin and $49.50 for the 7 pin) you'll get a LOT of use out of them due to the massive array of options for pinning up. Also, as far as I can tell they do give you spools and serrated pins in all sets so you could nab yourself a nice little 5 pin lock which will last you from novice to pro. Just watch out for those razor-sharp milled edges!

Aaand that's about it for my review! Hope it was helpful or at least informative :).
User avatar
LocksportSouth
Supporter
Supporter
 
Posts: 475
Joined: 20 Nov 2015 21:20
Location: UK

Re: Re-Pinnable Practice Locks Review

Postby mh » 19 Dec 2015 0:57

Thanks for the interesting review!

Do you think the cutting of the first cylinder has changed the picking properties (vs. a non-cutaway version)?
Does it make a difference if you pick it CW vs. CCW?

BTW the sharp milled slots in the mortise cylinders are there so that a screw from the side can keep the cylinder from being screwed out of the lock case. The whole cylinder is screwed into the lock case, then a long holding screw is inserted from the side, into one of these slots.

Cheers
mh
"The techs discovered that German locks were particularly difficult" - Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton w. Henry R. Schlesinger, Spycraft: The secret history of the CIA's spytechs from communism to Al-Qaeda (New York: Dutton, 2008), p. 210
Image
mh
Moderator
 
Posts: 2437
Joined: 3 Mar 2006 4:32
Location: Germany

Re: Re-Pinnable Practice Locks Review

Postby LocksportSouth » 19 Dec 2015 11:47

mh wrote:Thanks for the interesting review!

Do you think the cutting of the first cylinder has changed the picking properties (vs. a non-cutaway version)?
Does it make a difference if you pick it CW vs. CCW?

BTW the sharp milled slots in the mortise cylinders are there so that a screw from the side can keep the cylinder from being screwed out of the lock case. The whole cylinder is screwed into the lock case, then a long holding screw is inserted from the side, into one of these slots.

Cheers
mh


No problem :)

Hmm... Hard to say - I don't have a non-cutaway version of that cylinder, in fact I have no idea what the actual brand of the cylinder was and even if I did have one, to be truly fair I'd need to make sure the bitting was identical for a comparison. However, comparing the Euro cutaway to other Euros that I've attempted (regular, store-bought ones which may or may not have security pins) and also compared against the re-pinnable mortice cylinders, I'd say that the cutaway is MUCH easier if just for the fact that you can see the pins move - so you know when they set so you can move on to others, and you can see the moving so you know which pin you're currently on.

I'm certain that having half of the pin hole cut away will affect the feel of picking, and when you're not forced to imagine or feel the inside of the lock different, more visual senses certainly take over. I'd not recommend the cutaway to anyone looking to increase their lockpicking skills for this reason, but it's a fantastic way to get acquainted with visualising whether a pin is set or not, and where in the cylinder the end of your pick is, something I still struggle with at the moment :).

As for pick direction - honestly I only picked it CW as that's how my vice was set up. The key does turn both ways though so I could always give it a shot CCW as well if anyone's interested / if it's likely to pick differently?

Regarding the milled slots - ahh, ok :). I figured it must be for screws or bolts or something. Shame they didn't smooth off these edges but I guess they figure once it's installed in a door it'll never be seen again, so why bother. Thanks for the insight though!
User avatar
LocksportSouth
Supporter
Supporter
 
Posts: 475
Joined: 20 Nov 2015 21:20
Location: UK

Re: Re-Pinnable Practice Locks Review

Postby mh » 19 Dec 2015 11:54

LocksportSouth wrote:I could always give it a shot CCW as well if anyone's interested / if it's likely to pick differently?


That's what I don't know, it's just that the shear surface is partially milled away, so I figured it could feel differently - but maybe it doesn't?
"The techs discovered that German locks were particularly difficult" - Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton w. Henry R. Schlesinger, Spycraft: The secret history of the CIA's spytechs from communism to Al-Qaeda (New York: Dutton, 2008), p. 210
Image
mh
Moderator
 
Posts: 2437
Joined: 3 Mar 2006 4:32
Location: Germany

Re: Re-Pinnable Practice Locks Review

Postby LocksportSouth » 19 Dec 2015 12:44

mh wrote:That's what I don't know, it's just that the shear surface is partially milled away, so I figured it could feel differently - but maybe it doesn't?


Yeah, it definitely feels different. I've just spent the past few mins having a go at it, and while I can pick it pretty fast (<30 secs usually) CW, it took me AGES CCW, and even then I really had to study the pins from the side really carefully to see which set and which weren't. For some reason I kept oversetting pins too, esp. Pin 1 which was never a problem going CW.

I'm not sure if it's normal when going the other way - common sense would assume that it should be reversed - but the binding order is totally different going CCW to going CW. HOWEVER it's not reversed on this lock, just "different". Pins 5 and 6 are def. last to go though rather than being first going CW.

Not sure if all this is different just because I'm going the other way, or because it's a cutout. It's possible that with a lot of CCW practice I'd get as fast with this lock as CW. I found I couldn't use my preferred double prong tension wrench with this approach though, to go CCW I needed to use the twisted L wrench which is probably part of what slowed me down.

Either way - interesting exercise - thanks for mentioning it! I wouldn't have even thought to test it if you haven't mentioned.
Bear in mind that I'm a total noob so any observations should probably be taken with a grain of salt - lol!

If you like, I could post you this one for you to have a play with?
User avatar
LocksportSouth
Supporter
Supporter
 
Posts: 475
Joined: 20 Nov 2015 21:20
Location: UK


Return to Locks

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests