Look at how these keys are cut!

[misterj]

Stumbled upon this today:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEST-7-PIN-CONS ... 2021178695

I have never seen anything like that before. I have a Best "green" key on an Ilco blank (which apparently opens any Best green construction core) and it is cut normally.

[Tyler J. Thomas]

Stumbled upon this today:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEST-7-PIN-CONS ... 2021178695

I have never seen anything like that before. I have a Best "green" key on an Ilco blank (which apparently opens any Best green construction core) and it is cut normally.

I don't know if this is industry terminology (very sad since my name is attached to a version of the LIST Council's dictionary) but ITL refers to it as "laser cut" mode.

When you cut a key by code on an automatic key machine, such as the ITL 950C, it cuts one space at a time. It cuts into the key which is why the angle of the cut matches the angle of the cutting wheel. On laser cuts, it starts at the shoulder and moves towards the tip of the key, continually running. In other words, it doesn't pull away from the key after each cut (which is why it doesn't have the profile we're accustomed to).

So why do they do it? They say it means less wear on the lock and key (no hard angles or points). Never seen proof of this but, on the surface, seems to make sense.

EDIT: Hey I got it right:

laser cut
adj. 1. a way of cutting a key so that the roots of adjacent cuts are connected by a straight-line cut; 2. a way of cutting a key so that the root of a shallow cut is widened until it intersects the included angle of an adjacent deeper cut

[GWiens2001]

That also makes visual decoding more difficult.

Here is a thread on different ways to cut keys.

Gordon

[RumballSolutions]

The problem with laser cutting is that with worn locks or some bitting combinations, it can allow removal of keys in positions other than the intended key pull positions. This can lead to problems down the track with lock malfunctions and user difficulties.

I have an ITL950 and have used laser cutting where required (for example the Chicago style double sided wafer locks), but I try and avoid it unless it was like that from the factory.

Also has the potential to cause havoc in master keyed systems with less than ideal bittings. Think jiggle keys and flipped master wafers.

[misterj]

Fascinating. I had seen the V cut keys before, but not these. Guessing the guy had the cores, knew the bitting for a Best green core and had a machine that cut keys in that manner.

So, I learned two things today.

Also learned that all green cores are apparently keyed the same. I had a key to them from a renovation at a past job and nobody asked for it back. Figured they didn't care because permanent cores were installed anyway. I threw it in a drawer years ago. Saw green cores on ebay with what looked like the same bitting. Compared my key and sure enough it is. Crazy when I think about how many of those I've seen in permanent use on buildings that were renovated a long time ago. Virtually any commercial contractor would probably have one of those keys

[cledry]

Look at National CompX pin tumbler locks they are cut this way too. For example.

[QuantumEntangled]

One of the top 2 keys in the 1st post looks like one of those "computer generated" pick profiles. Some companies call them "high tech" picks. HPC maybe or Lab... I dont remember exactly but if one had a look at these laser cut keys, then opening its respective lock with those high tech rockers would be as simple as choosing the one most similar instead of all of them on a trial and error basis...so in that way visual decoding would be pretty simple

[Davis]

On the Ilco Futura code cutting key machine at the shop where I work, there are three options for how the machine will cut the flats on edge-cut keys: normal style, laser cut style, and piano flat style. The piano flat style is like the keys for the National CompX keys shown below (and also some American Lock pre-cuts). I don't know if this is simply what Ilco/Silca chose to call it, or if there is some industry standard. From what I can tell, the laser cut style cuts long, gradual, angled ramps between one flat to the next; however, the piano flat style makes long, straight cuts parallel with the bottom edge of the key blade, going deeper or shallower as required by the bitting. Both styles avoid the peaks between flats, which can help make insertion and withdrawal of the key smoother.

I don't know if this will further the discussion or confuse things, but that's how I understand it, for what it's worth.