Beginner questions about padlock construction

[TMIB]

Hello!

As you can tell by my post count, I'm pretty new here. (see my post in the intro thread for details about me.)

I picked up a few padlocks from the junkyard and have been practicing some real basic picking on them. One of them I can get open in about 10 seconds now pretty regularly.

I'm curious about a few details of its construction though; partially because I want to understand more about this lock and partially because I want to know what kinds of things to consider with other locks in the future. This is probably pretty basic stuff to anyone that has messed with this much at all, but as noted, it's new to me. I looked through the forum for diagrams and photos of padlock construction, so I think I've got the basics, but I do have few questions.

Here's a pic of the lock in question:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1233/1065567277_63fa3c8df3.jpg (medium)
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1233/1065567277_63fa3c8df3_b.jpg(large)

The lock is primarily constructed of brass. Lock brand is "ILCO". Numbers stamped on the bottom read "kx47443". A small hole appears in the bottom of the padlock, below the keyway, directly in line with the heel of the shackle. It goes all the way through to the shackle.

On the side of the padlock, directly in line with the catch for the shackle (on the toe side of the shackle) is a circular section of brass that is a different color. It appears to be a plug put in during manufacture.

Now, on to my noobish questions: (I hope I have my lock terminology right in my description above.)

1) What purpose does the small hole on the bottom of the padlock serve? It just appears to go through to the heel of the shackle. My initial guess that it is there to allow someone to lubricate the shackle mechanism, but I'm not certain about that.

2) The brass plug- I'm guessing this covers an unneeded hole made in manufacturing. From the way things are lined up, I'd guess they drilled into the padlock from the side to create the hole that the catch for the shackle toe rides in. Then they filled the hole with a brass plug. Is this correct?

3) is the number stamp (KX47443) indicative of anything other than a serial number? I got two of these locks from the junkyard, and the other one also has a 5 digit number on it. It wouldn't be the pin heights would it?

4) Could I slip a feeler gauge in along the shear line with it unlocked and remove the plug? I'd have to hold the gauge in place long enough to slip a rod in, or the pins would fall out I guess.

5) Since I have two of these locks, and they cost me almost nothing, I considered making one a cutaway. Any tips on how to do this, or should I just mill off the face? I read the sticky post on "how to dissasemble a padlock", but it doesn't seem to apply much to this particular type.


Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions, and for being patient with my beginner questions.

--TMIB

[Dragunov-21]

I believe the small hole is for oiling, though I could be wrong.

If you look carefully, there should also be another row of discrepencies in the surface along one side; these cover the pin chambers.

The number may be a keying code, but you'd need to find an (algorithm?) to convert it into pin depths

As for removing the cam, it depends on the lock, but you might have to get rid of a retaining bolt of some sort...

Hope that helps you somewhat...

[freakparade3]

The hole is for lubrication. It does not appear that you can dismantle the padlock without destroying it. As for making a cutaway, I have never done it but I would line up the key on the side of the padlock in the same position as if it were inserted into the plug and mark the spaces where the cuts are on the key. This should give you a pretty good line to make your cuts for a cutaway.

[tmaxx258]

The hole is for lubrication.

Ok,if i wanted to lub up my lock throught that hole what would be better to use:3in1 oil,or Dry graphite?

[TMIB]

Thanks for the info!

As for making a cutaway, I have never done it but I would line up the key on the side of the padlock in the same position as if it were inserted into the plug and mark the spaces where the cuts are on the key. This should give you a pretty good line to make your cuts for a cutaway.

I don't actually have the key for these locks, I just grabbed them from a pile of scrap from the junkyard and tossed them in with all the other stuff I was buying. (I made an offer to the junkyard owner on all the stuff I was getting at once.)

If I do make a cutaway, my goal is just to be able to see into the inside as everything moves. I thought it might be neat to replace the side of the lock with a piece of clear lexan.

[Marco]

The hole at the bottom is also to drain water from the lock.

[tmaxx258]

The hole at the bottom is also to drain water from the lock.

Really?

[Marco]

Really?

Yes, really. Sometimes water can get into the lock through the shackle or other areas, and the water can then drain out of this hole at the bottom.

[Shrub]

The hole at the bottom is also to drain water from the lock.

Well done Marco, you are correct,

The hole is ONLY for water drainage, it is NOT for oiling the lock,

The plugs you see are construction plugs,

I cant answer the serial number question but its highly unlikely its the actual biting, it is most possable that theres a code book which inputting that number to would give the actual cuts but a direct comparison it wont be,

The disasemble the padlock you willneed to get those differat colour plugs out the body of the lock, this is explained on site in various methods but its not a great way to open a lock up,

Bypassing isnt discussed in the open forums but no you wont be able to shim it from the front,

To whoever asked about the oil,
Please have a read up on site how to lubricate locks, you should NEVER put oil in them and wd-40 isnt good for them,

[tmaxx258]

To whoever asked about the oil,
Please have a read up on site how to lubricate locks, you should NEVER put oil in them and wd-40 isnt good for them,

It was me,Is the reason not to use oil is because it attractes dust,and dirt,and makes the lock all grity?

[cyrus104]

Crap, I never thought about going to the junk yard. I have just been using ebay as my junk yard.
I guess I will start using the junk yard for older stuff.

[TMIB]

The disasemble the padlock you willneed to get those differat colour plugs out the body of the lock, this is explained on site in various methods but its not a great way to open a lock up,

Thus far the only off-color plug I found was the one I mentioned on the side by the toe of the shackle. I expected to see more on the side over the pins, but there are none visible. It could simply be good enough construction that they can't be seen I suppose.

Bypassing isnt discussed in the open forums but no you wont be able to shim it from the front,

I think I must have been unclear, because you're misunderstanding what I was asking. I don't need to know how to bypass this lock (that's why I took the picture with the lock open to illustrate.) I'm talking about removing the plug as a method of dissasembly once I already have the lock open. There are many tutorials on the site for removing the plug from door-type locks like deadbolts and such (sorry, I don't know the correct terminology yet), but not padlocks. I was wondering if it were even possible to do so. From just this initial feedback, and further inspection of the lock, it doesn't sound like it would work without at least partially destroying the lock.

To whoever asked about the oil,
Please have a read up on site how to lubricate locks, you should NEVER put oil in them and wd-40 isnt good for them,

Any problem with using liquid products for cleaning, so long as it's removed well? One of the locks I got from the junkyard was so gunked up the pins would hardly move. I dropped it into a tub of Berryman's carb cleaner overnight, then blasted it out with my air compressor. I followed that up with brake cleaner (since it doesn't leave a residue) and then blasted it out with the air compressor again. I figured that process would leave the lock pretty clean, but unlubed.

--TMIB

[TMIB]

Crap, I never thought about going to the junk yard. I have just been using ebay as my junk yard.
I guess I will start using the junk yard for older stuff.

There's one I go to in Olympia, WA that's fantastic. Just acres of odd stuff, including old blacksmith stuff from time to time and lots of wrecked motorcycles. The owner tends to price stuff a little high though and expects you to haggle him down.

The main thing that I think would be a problem getting locks from a junkyard as I did is not knowing their condition. For a more experienced picker this might not be as much of an issue. One of the three locks I brought home has resisted every attempt to pick it, or even set a single pin (even a false set). I don't know at this point if it's me, or if the plug is jammed/rusted in place. I'm still messing around with it, but I'm not going to waste a lot of energy on it, since I don't know its condition. I plan to pick up some locks from the store this weekend so I can work on some in a known-good state.

--TMIB

[Shrub]

You wont front shim on most locks as theres a lip,

Yes oils etc attrack dust and the dust clogs up,

Have a look for dismantleing a padlock of your type and the shrinking or pulling out of the plug/s,

[raimundo]

If you live north, you are familiar with locks freezing up, this is because you may have a rain followed by a freeze, if the water is not drained out you will need a key and a propane torch to open it.