Help Locked out from my own padlock

[treeplant]

I hope this is the right section to post as the question is directly related to the mechanism of my padlock.

So I dissassembled my padlock, 6 pin Australian lockwood with removable cylinder. Gave it a clean, inspected the pins etc the usual. It was late and I was careless so when reassembling I somehow used a screw that is longer then the usual screw that binds the cylinder in place (under the shackle) I screwed it, locked the padlock and just then saw the cylinder pop out about 5mm down out of the body (the longer screw)

So now the padlock is locked, cylinder is sticking out about 5mm, becuase of this the locking mechanism of the padlock is out of reach and the longer screw is stopping the cylinder from being pushed to reach the locking mechanism as the shackle is holding the screw in.

Not sure if I explained this good enough, but basically what I am left with is a padlock that has the cylinder slightly sticking out from the bottom and when unlocked with the key the cylinder simply turns but does not grip anything to actually unlock the lock.

Don't think shimming is a option as this is a double ballbearing padlock. I can't really see a way out of this short of destroying the lock

[Altashot]

You can try inserting a pick thru the cylinder to turn the actuator
or find a key blank, file the shoulder back so the tip of the key reaches the actuator.
Cut the key using this "new" shoulder as a stop or impression it.

M.

[treeplant]

The back of the cylinder looks something like this, so I don't think I will be able to get a pick through, unless I somehow drilled through it but then I think I would drill the pins out

[GWiens2001]

Perhaps you could drill the bottom of the sex pin out. Or can you push the cylinder in enough to engage? I am assuming that this lock is constructed like an American rekeyable padlock, and the key cylinder cover is what sticks out? Pics?

Gordon

[zeepia]

Interesting design that it lets you assemble it with a longer screw and still gets locked. I guess you had to screw it in with more torque than normally.

If the cylinder is the only part which has come out, the pins won´t have alignment to holes in the plug. Therefore it can´t be impressioned. But also in that case the cylinder should turn freely. Can you insert your key? What part of the lock does the screw contact to? If it locks the cylinder and prevents it from turning, you have a nice paper weight to your desk.

Could you take a picture of your lock, that would maybe help us to help you. Use photobucket or similar service.

Good luck and keep us updated!

[treeplant]

http://windycitytech.blogspot.com/2012/09/inside-lockwood-23445-lock.html

This is the exact padlock I have, so now the barell and cylinder are sticking out the bottom about 5mm, when I turn with the key the lock turns but does not engage.

If i wanted to drill out the pins I would have to get through the outer shell, then through the barell that raps around the bible on the cylinder, destroying the lock.

What I had to do once was but in with a file right under the shackle from the side and was able to turn the screw and release the barell but that also destroyed the lock, I would like preserve the outer shell of the padlock.

I Would rather destroy the cylinder or part of it rather then the external case but seems like alot of work

[treeplant]

Thats the thing with the screw, its the same size as the original one just longer so when I was screwing it in felt exactly the same, the end reached the end of the cylinder and when I forced the shackle in to close the lock that just pushed the screw all the way down which created a gap inside the lock between the locking mechanism of the padlock and the mechanism on the cylinder. So the padlock unlock mechanism is not connected to the cylinder but the cylinder is screwed it, I don't suppose trying to shim the ballbearings could force it to open since there is nothing restricting the spinner inside the padlock?

[2octops]

2 options.

Drill retainer

Drill and shear the screw.

Either way, you're drilling.

[globallockytoo]

smack the cylinder on the plug face as hard as you can. You should be able to stuff the threads and operate padlock normally, then remove screw, use a tap to rethread the hole and replace the screw.

If the cylinder is protruding 5mm out, the key should still turn the cam and allow you to punch the cylinder back in.

[lunchb0x]

You will have the best luck with what Global said, I have been able to open many of these padlocks like that before but they have all been from a loose screw, if your screw is too big it might be hitting on the shackle stopping the lock to be pushed in far enough to engage the cam. bang the lock keyway facing down onto a bench, hopefully this will move the cam down to engage with the cam on the lock.

[cledry]

You have learned one of the basic rules of rekeying padlocks. Always test before closing the shackle.

[GWiens2001]

Yep, give 'er the smack-down! Right on the face. If there is enough space, the cam should either fall enough to engage the tail if the lock cylinder, or if it is too large a gap, it will fall enough that the locking balls will retract enough to allow you to pull open the shackle.

One other suggestion for the future... I use a tray to hold the pieces of any lock I am disassembling. Mostly because my son loves to come running up and see what I am doing, occasionally causing me to knock a piece off the table, or doing so himself. But it would help to prevent putting incorrect parts into the lock.

Gordon

[treeplant]

Thanx for the replies guys, I tried to smackdown but it was late at night so couldn't make too much noise, I will give it a good smack down again today and see how it goes. Very good advice

[Raymond]

Instead of a smackdown, try squeezing the padlock in a big vise or hydraulic press. Compress the shackle in against the retaining screw area on the cylinder. Keep the key where it can still rotate. Hope the screw collapses.

[MBI]

This is my favorite kind of advice.

If it doesn't fit, force it.
If it breaks, it needed replacing anyways.