Couple of questions regarding cleaning and Master locks...

[Eazy123]

Yesterday I received a lot of about 35 locks and assorted parts that I won on eBay. Some are in new condition, some are very worn, with visibly stuck pins. I've read conflicting reports here on WD-40 vs. something like carb cleaner and am debating which to pick up on the way home tonight.

Also, there are a couple of Masters (#7, I believe) in there, but with all of them when I hold them upright, the core drops partway out of the housing. I can't recall this being typical?

[demux]

WD-40 can actually attract dirt over the long run, I wouldn't put it in locks. I personally like to use a product called Tri-Flow to clean/lubricate my locks. I get the spray bottle with the liquid so it can reach all the way to the back. Tri-Flow is basically a fine quality penetrating oil (almost a gun oil) with Teflon. It'll keep the locks lubricated for a long time and won't attract dirt. It's a bit pricey, but good stuff, I've brought some pretty far gone locks back with it.

[GWiens2001]

Are you sure they are not Master #17 locks, which are rekeyable? They have a trap door on the bottom to remove the core.

Gordon

[billdeserthills]

They sound like the Master UP padlocks
These allow you to use your own (master lock) key and with a special tool,
you basically bash this tool into the cylinder, which causes the special tumblers to 'shear off'
causing the padlock to now be keyed to work on your key. They are not rekeyable a second time

The UP padlocks are available in three body sizes (1,3 &5) and a few shackle lengths

[GWiens2001]

They sound like the Master UP padlocks
These allow you to use your own (master lock) key and with a special tool,
you basically bash this tool into the cylinder, which causes the special tumblers to 'shear off'
causing the padlock to now be keyed to work on your key. They are not rekeyable a second time

The UP padlocks are available in three body sizes (1,3 &5) and a few shackle lengths

Don't recall the UP padlocks allowing the core to slide partially out of the lock body. Could they be not yet keyed?

Gordon

[billdeserthills]

They sound like the Master UP padlocks
These allow you to use your own (master lock) key and with a special tool,
you basically bash this tool into the cylinder, which causes the special tumblers to 'shear off'
causing the padlock to now be keyed to work on your key. They are not rekeyable a second time

The UP padlocks are available in three body sizes (1,3 &5) and a few shackle lengths

Don't recall the UP padlocks allowing the core to slide partially out of the lock body. Could they be not yet keyed?

Gordon

Yes, the unkeyed UP locks allow the cylinder to slide out partway, scared me a couple of times
when I thought they were gonna fall apart

[Eazy123]

They sound like the Master UP padlocks
These allow you to use your own (master lock) key and with a special tool,
you basically bash this tool into the cylinder, which causes the special tumblers to 'shear off'
causing the padlock to now be keyed to work on your key. They are not rekeyable a second time

The UP padlocks are available in three body sizes (1,3 &5) and a few shackle lengths

You're exactly right - I was looking for a number and thought "1up" was imprinted in there by the uprrcious owner or something. As long as this is normal behavior for these locks and I can pick it then I'm good. I thought it was broken.

I will also look into tri-flow, thank you all.

[GWiens2001]

They sound like the Master UP padlocks
These allow you to use your own (master lock) key and with a special tool,
you basically bash this tool into the cylinder, which causes the special tumblers to 'shear off'
causing the padlock to now be keyed to work on your key. They are not rekeyable a second time

The UP padlocks are available in three body sizes (1,3 &5) and a few shackle lengths

You're exactly right - I was looking for a number and thought "1up" was imprinted in there by the uprrcious owner or something. As long as this is normal behavior for these locks and I can pick it then I'm good. I thought it was broken.

I will also look into tri-flow, thank you all.

That lock sounds like it is unkeyed, so you will need to put in a key and whack it to key it before picking.

Gordon

[Eazy123]

Thanks Gordon, I watched a video just now to see how it works (billsderhills' explanation went a bit over my head but now I understand it). I saw serrations on the first pin and thought "a Master with serrations?!?"

But now I get it, lol.

[adi_picker]

Hey Eazy,

Dont know what everyone else here will think, but to clean old locks, I just dump em all into a bucket of solvent and let them soak. Ive used most any solvent with the good results, including paint thinners, acetone (although this evaporates quite quickly), isopropol alcohol and unleaded fuel! I let them soak for a day to loosen up all the gunk, then I brush / scrub anything I can get at / into with a paintbrush and toothbrush. Once they are clean, I use compressed air to blow away all the solvent, taking care to make sure I get it out of the innards. Then lubricate with your choice! I dont like WD40, as it stinks and as someone mentioned above, attracts dirt, as its a little sticky. Graphite for me, and probably far too much!

When Im away from the shed, or only have a single lock to clean, I have also had great results with regular brake cleaner or contact cleaner. These can both be found in any auto parts shop in an aerosol. Both blast away the grime quite well.

Have fun, dont smoke around the solvents >;D

adi_picker

[Eazy123]

Hey Eazy,

Dont know what everyone else here will think, but to clean old locks, I just dump em all into a bucket of solvent and let them soak. Ive used most any solvent with the good results, including paint thinners, acetone (although this evaporates quite quickly), isopropol alcohol and unleaded fuel! I let them soak for a day to loosen up all the gunk, then I brush / scrub anything I can get at / into with a paintbrush and toothbrush. Once they are clean, I use compressed air to blow away all the solvent, taking care to make sure I get it out of the innards. Then lubricate with your choice! I dont like WD40, as it stinks and as someone mentioned above, attracts dirt, as its a little sticky. Graphite for me, and probably far too much!

When Im away from the shed, or only have a single lock to clean, I have also had great results with regular brake cleaner or contact cleaner. These can both be found in any auto parts shop in an aerosol. Both blast away the grime quite well.

Have fun, dont smoke around the solvents >;D



adi_picker

Much appreciated, adi_picker! I have quite a few to clean so maybe I'll start with the isopropyl alcohol since I have that on hand already.

[GWiens2001]

Hey Eazy,

Dont know what everyone else here will think, but to clean old locks, I just dump em all into a bucket of solvent and let them soak. Ive used most any solvent with the good results, including paint thinners, acetone (although this evaporates quite quickly), isopropol alcohol and unleaded fuel!

adi_picker

To quote Groucho Marx ... "To clean grease from a stove, use a tablespoon of gasoline and the grease will disappear. Then use a match, and the roof will disappear."

Be aware that cheap locks frequently use plastic internal components which may be destroyed by solvents.

Will sometimes use WD-40 to clean the gunk from the lock, frequently raking the pins and respraying until the WD-40 runs out of the lock clean. Then I use compressed air to get as much of the WD-40 out of the lock as possible. Then brake clean to clean out residue. More compressed air to evaporate out the brake clean, leaving a very clean, dry lock. Then lightly use whatever your particular favorite lock lubricant may be.

Gordon

[demux]

Hi Eazy,

Just to clarify my original response, I use Tri-Flow to clean/lube the cylinder itself. As adi implied, it won't do much to take dirt off the outside of the lock body. If that's what you're after, then yeah some solvent and a bit of scrubbing would probably be the way to go. Not sure I'd soak the whole thing, but a bit on a rag with some gloves would probably do the trick. In other words, I basically use the Tri-Flow where adi recommends graphite. Nothing wrong with graphite on cylinders either, I just find it to be a bit messier, especially when trying to lube a lock in-situ. As long as you stay away from the WD-40 (or, as Gordon suggests, clean it out thoroughly when done), you'll probably be fine either way though.

[demux]

Oh, and I almost forgot to add (and you may already know this, but in case anyone stumbles across this thread in the future):

Be aware that any time you lube a lock, no matter how careful you are, you may get a small residual amount of whatever product you used that comes out with the key the next few times the lock is operated, until everything gets good and worked in to where it's supposed to be. I'd highly suggest that you work the lock a few times after you lube it, and that you have along a rag to wipe down whatever key you use to do so, before putting said key back in your pocket.

[Eazy123]

To quote Groucho Marx ... "To clean grease from a stove, use a tablespoon of gasoline and the grease will disappear. Then use a match, and the roof will disappear."

This made me lol - I LOVE Groucho! Harpo even more...

Thanks again, everyone. Some of these seem to need just a bit of lube since some of the pins are clearly stuck, while others really need a good cleaning.