by Raymond » 11 Aug 2007 23:43
These old padlocks can be taken apart for fun. However it is not practical to do so for rekeying or repair or just to make the key. (Impression for that). The code stamped is a blind code and the key cuts will be available only if you have that code table. The hole is definitely a drain hole. The brass plug indeed covers the hole necessary to drill the hole for the shackle bolt. On the same side as the large plug will be six more holes covered by plugs. Try sanding the side or tapping with a plastic hammer to get them to stand out. The first five holes are the spring-pin covers and the sixth( closer to the top) will cover a long brass pin that holds the plug in. This pin slides around in a groove as the plug is turned. If you cannot see the plugs, approximate the spacing from the bottom of the lock and drill a small (1/16 inch) hole in the top of each plug. Then screw in a very small self tapping or sheet metal screw, tighten and bind it, and pull the plug out. These pin plug holes can later be replaced by new brass pins. If you can locate the plug retaining pin and remove it first, the picked plug can be removed and all the pins and springs dumped. You can then use the plug to measure for the exact location of the pin plugs. For many years there has been a non-ceasing argument about what is the best lubricant for locks. My preference is pure dry graphite. Second is powdered teflon. WD40 is only good during the emergency and must be cleaned out and followed by anything better. If you use any liquid lube as heavy as 3in1 oil you stand a very strong chance that after a little dust has blown around, the pins will stick up in the pin chambers due to all the mud. You will then have to use something like brake cleaner to wash it out. Good luck and have fun.
Nothing is foolproof to a talented fool. Wisdom is not just in determining how to do something, but also includes determining whether it should be done at all.
