Lock Picking 101 Forum
A community dedicated to the fun and ethical hobby of lock picking.
       

Lock Picking 101 Home
Login
Profile
Members
Forum Rules
Frequent Forum Questions
SEARCH
View New Posts
View Active Topics


Live Chat on Discord
LP101 Forum Chat
Keypicking Forum Chat
Reddit r/lockpicking Chat



Learn How to Pick Locks
FAQs & General Questions
Got Beginner Questions?
Pick-Fu [Intermediate Level]


Ask a Locksmith
This Old Lock
This Old Safe
What Lock Should I Buy?



Hardware
Locks
Lock Patents
Lock Picks
Lock Bumping
Lock Impressioning
Lock Pick Guns, Snappers
European Locks & Picks
The Machine Shop
The Open Source Lock
Handcuffs


Member Spotlight
Member Introductions
Member Lock Collections
Member Social Media


Off Topic
General Chatter
Other Puzzles


Locksmith Business Info
Training & Licensing
Running a Business
Keyways & Key Blanks
Key Machines
Master Keyed Systems
Closers and Crash Bars
Life Safety Compliance
Electronic Locks & Access
Locksmith Supplies
Locksmith Lounge


Buy Sell Trade
Buy - Sell - Trade
It came from Ebay!


Advanced Topics
Membership Information
Special Access Required:
High Security Locks
Vending Locks
Advanced Lock Pick Tools
Bypass Techniques
Safes & Safe Locks
Automotive Entry & Tools
Advanced Buy/Sell/Trade


Locksport Groups
Locksport Local
Chapter President's Office
Locksport Board Room
 

problem with diassembling a mul-t-lock

Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.

Postby mkultra23 » 7 Jul 2008 11:13

Kwick wrote:
Kwick wrote:they gave me the phone number of a MTL reseller and he told me he could replace the cylinder for 250€ (~$375). so nice!.

Thats crazy, and for Classic? You'd think it was a CLIQ cylinder! a euro profile cylinder on the interactive system is only $114.50 over here, and that's retail. We get them uncombinated for $57.25. Now there's Lazertech which is a Chinese rip-off of Mul-T-Lock Classic but doesn't look to have a UL rating. Maybe prices will go down for you now that there are generic options. If not, how much is shipping from the US? :wink: They should make all profile cylinders with with removable-capped chambers so you can service them when these SNAFU's occur.
mkultra23
Supporter
Supporter
 
Posts: 162
Joined: 13 Nov 2006 19:07
Location: Jamaica Plain, Massachusetts,USA

lets see

Postby raimundo » 8 Jul 2008 6:35

Yes, it is almost certainly the side pins, as the normal telescoping pins are off center and could not drop in any known hole in that exact position,

The people who suggest rapping or smacking the lock are onto something, but none of them mentioned that you do this with light tension,

before drilling, I would try to introduce a shim from the back of the lock, in fact I might put several shims in there, some to prevent any new problems coming up if you do move it. just to block the various holes. do not try to introduce the shim directly toward the problem, but put it in where it is easiest to introduce, at the cylinder break, then when only a bit of it is still showing, grip that and move it around toward the problem, who knows, you may discover somthing else as you try to move it, Use the thinnest shim you can find, such as those from the little anti shoplifting tags if they have those where you are. or if you can find a long piece of this thin shim material, it could be made into a probe that could at least help define the problem.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
raimundo
 
Posts: 7130
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 9:02
Location: Minnneapolis

Postby .45cal » 8 Jul 2008 8:02

If you are not able to get the plug free try to make a cut away from that side. That way you don't waste a good mtl and when the housing and cylinder are cut you should be able to see and manually lift the offending pins. A lot of work I know but the end result is more desirable.
Insert meaningful quote here!
.45cal
 
Posts: 33
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 15:16
Location: Eastern Canada

Postby weerwolf » 8 Jul 2008 15:00

I've had this problem a few times before. With the classic profile , you have to turn it in the opposite direction as with the interactive. You can try to bump it free , but that never worked for me.

The only other solution is to drill out the bottom of the cilinder. There are five pins that can be drilled out. Try only the first one , you might be able to rotate the plug and pull it out. If not , continue drilling. The pins can be replaced afterward.

Wolf
weerwolf
 
Posts: 188
Joined: 9 Aug 2005 8:47
Location: Vlaanderen

Previous

Return to Locks

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 10 guests