Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by GWiens2001 » 26 Feb 2015 11:05
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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GWiens2001
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by Robotnik » 26 Feb 2015 14:05
Nice; I've wanted to take a crack at a Keymark for a while. Anything profoundly different about these versus a normal Best-type IC?
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by GWiens2001 » 26 Feb 2015 14:43
My first Keymark as well, Robotnic. That 90 degree angle before angling off to the side makes it pick more like the Wx series of Best. Difficult to access the pin stacks further in.
Have heard there were no security pins in Keymark, but nobody told this lock. The final pin to set was at bitting 6, right in the keyway. Tons of counter rotation, which surprised me.
Aside from that, just like any other SFIC lock.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by Robotnik » 28 Feb 2015 2:29
 Supra Title Key lockbox (inner groove tubular key wafer lock). I posted a teardown of a different Title Key box in the advanced forums recently; this is the first one I've picked blind, however. Also pictured is another Corbin Master Ring I purchased and picked today. I decided to solve my dilemma about tearing down a 100-ish year old master ring (posted in 'This Old Lock') by buying a more contemporary one - '60s or so - and rekeying that one. Picked this one to the change key position as well; have to work on hitting master shear line.
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by Robotnik » 28 Feb 2015 3:36
Robotnik wrote:Supra Title Key lockbox (inner groove tubular key wafer lock). I posted a teardown of a different Title Key box in the advanced forums recently; this is the first one I've picked blind, however.
Also pictured is another Corbin Master Ring I purchased and picked today. I decided to solve my dilemma about tearing down a 100-ish year old master ring (posted in 'This Old Lock') by buying a more contemporary one - '60s or so - and rekeying that one. Picked this one to the change key position as well; have to work on hitting master shear line.
I should add, thanks to GWiens2001 for advice on fashioning a tensioner for the lockbox. Worked out great.
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by Mitchell S » 1 Mar 2015 21:03
I just spent the best part of my morning picking this little sucker. I bought a lot of 10 of these on eBay recently, went through one, two and three without too much drama, but this one gave me no end of pain!! I didn't look at the key until after I had picked it, I'm thinking I must have been oversetting pin 4 wherever I went to set pin 5 judging by the biting. Had to go for a Peterson reach to get to the back. After that realization she finally popped. These little Abuses seem innocuous but they can be tough little locks!  
He who dies with the most toys wins
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by Yorkie » 2 Mar 2015 6:39
A single cylinder 5 pin euro style, at 4am whilst trying to settle my boy, I was just having a feel around and click, it popped open! I think it was fluke as I'm still working on 3 pins ATM but it opened so I'm counting that as a win;)
Yorkie
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by Comrade627 » 2 Mar 2015 7:03
Full of serrated and a hybrid. 
Remember: Pick something every day, no matter how small and insignificant it may be…it helps maintain proficiency.”
SPP purist.
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by deolslyfox » 2 Mar 2015 9:52
I knocked off 3 Government 5200s (1986 vintage) two repaired 5330s and one 1105 ....
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by Comrade627 » 3 Mar 2015 18:26
Nothing too crazy. It's a 830 am with not much else to do. Fortress 40mm Master 130. 
Remember: Pick something every day, no matter how small and insignificant it may be…it helps maintain proficiency.”
SPP purist.
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by GWiens2001 » 3 Mar 2015 21:12
Still good work as you learn, comrade. Keep it up! Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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GWiens2001
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by Squelchtone » 4 Mar 2015 2:29
Mitchell S wrote:I just spent the best part of my morning picking this little sucker. I bought a lot of 10 of these on eBay recently, went through one, two and three without too much drama, but this one gave me no end of pain!! I didn't look at the key until after I had picked it, I'm thinking I must have been oversetting pin 4 wherever I went to set pin 5 judging by the biting. Had to go for a Peterson reach to get to the back. After that realization she finally popped. These little Abuses seem innocuous but they can be tough little locks! 
just some advice regarding form and tension wrench placement. In some locks this will actually stop you from being successful by having the wrench that way at the bottom of the keyway because it will grind against the lock shell. There more common place to put the wrench is the vertical drop on the bottom right in your keyway, with the handle of the wrench pointing towards 3 oclock, where as the one in the pic is pointing more like 4 o'clock, where you still have access to get under the pins, but your wrench isn't so low that it is touching the shell. Some wide keyways, you'll start with the wrench vertically, then it "cams out" and you think the lock is opening, but its just the wrench turning into the wider horizontal area at the bottom of the keyway where it gets jammed. nice job on that Abus, they are well made and full of spool pins, but always have a nice feel to them when picking. Squelchtone

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by Squelchtone » 4 Mar 2015 19:14
did you break into my house? I have all the same equipment. heh.
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by Mitchell S » 4 Mar 2015 22:07
Squelchtone wrote:Mitchell S wrote:I just spent the best part of my morning picking this little sucker. I bought a lot of 10 of these on eBay recently, went through one, two and three without too much drama, but this one gave me no end of pain!! I didn't look at the key until after I had picked it, I'm thinking I must have been oversetting pin 4 wherever I went to set pin 5 judging by the biting. Had to go for a Peterson reach to get to the back. After that realization she finally popped. These little Abuses seem innocuous but they can be tough little locks! 
just some advice regarding form and tension wrench placement. In some locks this will actually stop you from being successful by having the wrench that way at the bottom of the keyway because it will grind against the lock shell. There more common place to put the wrench is the vertical drop on the bottom right in your keyway, with the handle of the wrench pointing towards 3 oclock, where as the one in the pic is pointing more like 4 o'clock, where you still have access to get under the pins, but your wrench isn't so low that it is touching the shell. Some wide keyways, you'll start with the wrench vertically, then it "cams out" and you think the lock is opening, but its just the wrench turning into the wider horizontal area at the bottom of the keyway where it gets jammed. nice job on that Abus, they are well made and full of spool pins, but always have a nice feel to them when picking. Squelchtone
Good advice I will try a different wrench placement on the next one and see how I go. If you can help me SPP my stupid abus 83/50 I'll be even more grateful! It feels crunchy like it has serrated pins in it, but I can't get any feel from it like I do on the 65. I can't even detect a false set let alone any counter rotation. It's driving me nuts that lock.
He who dies with the most toys wins
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