Gimmicked Lock

[int3grate]

First of all, I read this forum a lot and don't post much, so I'd like to thank all of the members for making this such an interesting site. I've been messing around with locks, handcuffs, and combination locks for a couple years now and I've had a lot of fun with them.

I have two questions. First, I would like to hear recommendations on how to create a gimmicked (easy to open) padlock for performing magic tricks. I'd like to gimmick a Master lock (preferably a #7) but I'm not sure how to go about doing this as most padlocks are not designed to be taken apart. I'm also not sure how the best way to gimmick it would be (remove pins?)

Second, have your guys ever heard/used plastic locks picks and tension wrenches?

Thanks a lot,

Int3grate

[LeeNo]

There are several padlocks available where you can remove pins and they would be solidly locked until the cylinder was rotated (Schlage model KS-22 for example) and that would be an easy way to gimmick a lock. The Schlages also look very formidable.

Allowing a volunteer to snap closed the lock and attempt to open it by pulling the shackle would prove to the audience that the lock was truly locked.

Short of performing a lot of intricate metal machining, removing the pinstacks of the padlock would probably be the best way to gimmick it.

[Gordon Airporte]

You can get padlocks with removable cores at the hardware store, however the audience might pick up on it and suspect that the lock has been tampered with... If that seems like a real risk to you then a solid brass padlock would look best, but modifying it would be a challenge.

With some locks (Master No. 575, Brinks Shrouded, etc.) the core can be removed by drilling out a pin on the side. If you could find a way to replace the pin after unloading the cylinder that might work.

You might also consider modifying the locking dogs to make the lock easier to shim. A shim would be fairly easy to conceal too.

[Eyes_Only]

hmmm...sounds a bit painful.

[JackNco]

u wanna impress people? ok well get an ex US army 5200 padlock with key and dissemble and leave the front pin in. you could simplely open it with any piece of metal or even a long fingernail and a tensioner.

John

[int3grate]

All very interesting ideas. I think I'll get me a pack of shims and try them out on some Masterlocks.

Where would I purchase a US army 5200 padlock at?

Thanks,

Int3grate

[linty]

i read about a trick once which involved the spring and top (or bottom I guess) pin taken out of one of the chambers. The way the trick was set up when the audience member tries the key the lock is right side up and the loose pin blocks the shear line, when the magician opens it he's on the other side and so he turns the lock upside-down and the loose pin moves out of the way.

[linty]

err, i mean just the spring, both top and bottom should be able to stay.

[raimundo]

handcuffs with the rack teeth and pawl tooth cut to a less agressive angle might work for you, and as for padlocks, are you going to do the trick in plain view or behind some kind of box, curtain etc? there are some padlocks that can be opened by knocking on them in just the right way, if the locking dog were cut back and the spring replaced by a weaker spring, you would have a gaffed lock. knocking is the better techinique I would think for magic, you could even design a lock made for magic where the click of locking is loud and strong, leaveing a psychological impression of a tough lock but the actual locking dog is held in with a weak spring. To gaff the american 5200, I would suggest disasembling it and cutting the inlets for the balls deeper. Since I haven't done this, I think you would have to just take the ideas and do the experiments while learning and discovering for yourself what works.

[raimundo]

on the handcuff, you can access the rack teeth easily but without taking it apart, the pawl tooth would be harder, perhaps, with a dremel you could simply take the depth of the tooth down so that it cant go as deep into the rack as it normally would. You might also find a way to gaff it so that it can be made secure when you allow the subject from the audience to experience it, and then have a way of making it insecure when you have them on, perhaps again with the dremel cutoff wheel, cutting the pawl tooth,(there are likely 3 of them) in a way that side to side movement in the track would affect the locking, so that by pushing the rack to one side of the track would make it insecure and suseptible to knocking or other simple and absolutely sure techinques. (dont go for anything that will trip you up) and discover what the normal reactions to the handcuff are and make the gaff work in the counter intuitive way.

[int3grate]

I'm really not as worried about the handcuffs as much as I am with the padlocks. Handcuffs are easy to pick, the hardest part is just finding a place to hide your tools.

If your doing a trick, you really can't pick a padlock as it can sometimes be rather unpredictable. Bypassing or using a gimmicked lock is the best idea. I'm ordering some more DVDs and books on escapology, so I'm sure it'll have some more ideas.

Thanks for all your help,

Int3grate

[delocking]

I was watching some of the masked magician programmes over Christmas and many of the tricks with padlocks had removable hinge pins in the shackles. That would save you actually trying to open a padlock if your audience can't see what your doing

[poor paperclip picker]

Another way I just found out when I was disassembling a Master lock #3 is: Break the key off in the cylinder (Part of the reason why I took my #3 apart) and if you have the cylinder out, align the key so that it can turn in the cylinder and open the shackle. So all you would need is some kind of turning force.

The problem is if someone looked in the keyway, they could see the broken key. Also unless you had a padlock that you could easily remove the cylinder so you could line up the key, it would be very easy to tell you tampered with the lock. Like on my #3 there are grind marks all over the bottom plate and the rivets are noticeably ground down.

But it was just an idea

[Raymond]

I have figured out how to gimmick an American 5200 padlock but it is quite technical. It will involve disassembly and some machining work. (drill press).
Remove the locking ball on the open side of the padlock. Only the shackle retainer ball will be necessary to lock the lock. Remove the grooved pawl between the locking ball bearings. Drill a hole down from the top of the pawl of a diameter large enough to just touch the grooves. Drill a ball sized hole into the pawl cavity just far enough to allow the ball to enter enough to free the shackle. A sliding pin will fit into the top hole. If the pin is steel, it can attach itself to a small sliver of magnetic material glued to the top of the cavity. When the pin is stuck to the magnet, the pawl acts normally with the key as the pin is stuck upward. A sharp rap downward will cause the pin to separate from the magnet and drop below the locking ball. This creates a space large enough for the ball to enter and thereby unlock the padlock.

I haven't built one but just thought of it. Good luck.

[int3grate]

I was watching some of the masked magician programmes over Christmas and many of the tricks with padlocks had removable hinge pins in the shackles. That would save you actually trying to open a padlock if your audience can't see what your doing

Removable pins, bolts, hidden trap doors, and fake screws are used all the time in magic. That's how Houdini performed most of his tricks (water torture cell, milk can escape, substitution trunk, etc..) He also used gimmicked locks, handcuffs, hidden tools and keys, confederates, and numerous other tricks (such as banging handcuffs on a hidden metal plate sewn into his clothes to open them).