Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by adamd » 7 Apr 2008 5:43
Last edited by MBI on 11 Dec 2015 16:37, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Title edited by MBI to improve usefulness, also moved to proper forum.
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adamd
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by Squelchtone » 7 Apr 2008 6:22
in this pic
http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk234/adamdphoto/DSC00039.jpg
You have already removed the back plate. Now slide the cylinder out of shell. Now, you see that clip holding the flat tailpiece. spread that with a slotted screwdriver and pop it off to remove the tailpiece.
show us pics when you're done, thats an interesting lock.
Squelchtone
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by raimundo » 7 Apr 2008 9:21
a small plier will pinch the split tail together just enough to push it in a small amount, then you should be able to remover that clip. they are pretty common clips, so if you do wreck it, (its perfectly removable without damage) you should be able to find another one in old scrap locks. locksmiths and metal recyclers have the scrap locks.
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by bumber » 7 Apr 2008 12:46
What kind of lock is that...never seen that back plate before...
This should really either be in Locks or Got Questions...... 
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by adamd » 7 Apr 2008 16:43
Raimundo : Cheers, I can get the split legs into the keyway but there is that little tag that sits in the bottom of the keyway that gets stuck! I'll keep at it though
Bumber: Its a union lock, fairly easy to pick due to the tight tolerances makes it good for feedback.
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adamd
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by adamd » 7 Apr 2008 16:58
Squelchtone: That clip sits inside the key way so it wont spread. When I squeeze it the tag is still stuck in the bottom of the key way it will only pop out a fraction.If i pop the cylinder out without removing the plug the springs will go flying 
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by Phatphish » 7 Apr 2008 20:03
Its difficult to tell from the pics, but you may need to insert key and rotate 90 degrees anti clockwise, to be able to slide the tailpiece and clip out.
If youve got a small vice, hold lock body keyway down (cylinder already rotated 90 degrees CCW)
Hold tailpiece in one hand while pinching the clip with long nosed pliers or similar, use sideways force on the tailpiece to help the clip through the slot.
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by Eyes_Only » 8 Apr 2008 22:37
I have a Yale Mortice cylinder that uses the same type of clip on the rear of the plug.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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by raimundo » 9 Apr 2008 9:31
Anyone who knows tell me about those pins I see in the disassembled photos.
the bottompins, lately called keypins in this forum seem to have a steep bezel edge near the shear,
I cant figure whether this would actually aid picking or thwart it, but the OP mentions that its easy, so.....
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by adamd » 9 Apr 2008 10:25
Yeh they do bind on this lock but still easier than the Yale lock I have. I've only been picking for barely a couple of weeks, so i don't think you'll have any difficulty 
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by illusion » 9 Apr 2008 16:42
raimundo wrote:Anyone who knows tell me about those pins I see in the disassembled photos.
the bottompins, lately called keypins in this forum seem to have a steep bezel edge near the shear,
I cant figure whether this would actually aid picking or thwart it, but the OP mentions that its easy, so.....
I seem to recall that the beveled edges reduce wear on the lock. As for picking, it makes the lock more lenient to lifting the pins too high. Raking is a lot easier on locks with these pins.
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by Abus » 16 Apr 2008 15:27
The bevels also allow a little extra slop in manufacturing tolerances (key cuts, plug diameter, etc). It is relatively cheap to add the bevel, and relatively expensive to tighten tolerances on other parts.
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