Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by _ » 16 Jun 2008 21:39
I bought a cheap deadbolt and was able to pick it in minutes. I kept adding spools, but kept finding it easy, so I reassembled it with 5 spools. After that, I couldn't pick it; and because I was stupid and did a configuration I didn't have a key for, I couldn't get it open. I'm sure this is far from a new technique, but this is the solution I came up with:
Basically I cut a small shim and slid it in from the back. I used a stiff pick to raise the pin stacks to the shear line and used the shim to bisect them one at a time. When I got all 5, the plug came out and I could repin it again.

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by mh » 16 Jun 2008 23:18
nice pictures!
(and yes you are correct, it's not new  )
"The techs discovered that German locks were particularly difficult" - Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton w. Henry R. Schlesinger, Spycraft: The secret history of the CIA's spytechs from communism to Al-Qaeda (New York: Dutton, 2008), p. 210
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by Trip Doctor » 17 Jun 2008 0:36
I'm interested in what you cut the shim out from, because you need a very thin shim to slide into there. (They sell them btw.)
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by _ » 17 Jun 2008 0:47
Trip Doctor wrote:I'm interested in what you cut the shim out from, because you need a very thin shim to slide into there. (They sell them btw.)
You know something? I wanna know what it is too. I found it on the floor of the drafting room at school and I only have one piece. All I know is that its a lot better than soda can.

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by criminalhate » 17 Jun 2008 0:51
it's a drafting template for drawing the shapes that are cut into it.
Try and draw a tear drop shape with out one then use the tear drop cutout on it and see which is better =P
If you hadn't cut it up you could have asked the drafting teacher where you could buy them at. Now it might be a little hard to explain why one of the templates is missing pieces.
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by _ » 17 Jun 2008 0:54
criminalhate wrote:it's a drafting template for drawing the shapes that are cut into it.
Try and draw a tear drop shape with out one then use the tear drop cutout on it and see which is better =P
If you hadn't cut it up you could have asked the drafting teacher where you could buy them at. Now it might be a little hard to explain why one of the templates is missing pieces.
I'm not actually in the drafting class. The room doubles as a computer lab. I just noticed that it was lying on the floor for two weeks and assumed it was scrap. In retrospect, that was a bad idea.
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by criminalhate » 17 Jun 2008 0:57
we all make mistakes =)
But still you could probably find another like it in the class and ask that teacher about where you can buy some. He / She would probably be glad you wanted to buy them instead of stealing them like most students probably do.
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by hydruh » 17 Jun 2008 8:56
If you are talking college and not high school, go to the bookstore on campus. OSU's UBX sells them in with the art and drafting supplies.
S
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by jpb06080 » 17 Jun 2008 13:10
I usually just use a key blank for this. You can buy shims pretty cheap. The only time they won't work is with kik cylinders that are still in the lock.
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by _ » 17 Jun 2008 14:09
jpb06080 wrote:I usually just use a key blank for this. You can buy shims pretty cheap. The only time they won't work is with kik cylinders that are still in the lock.
Wait, you mean you can shim some locks from the front? Most plugs I've seen have a greater diameter at the front as to prevent this.
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by Raymond » 17 Jun 2008 18:24
The plate you cut your shim from is an eraser shield. They are very expensive.  When drafting and you need to erase a very small area without disturbing the other drawing, simply lay the shield over the area. One of the precut shapes will be about right. Use your pencil or ink eraser on top of the shield.
Today, most drafting is done by computer but the erasing shield is still very useful.
Nothing is foolproof to a talented fool. Wisdom is not just in determining how to do something, but also includes determining whether it should be done at all.
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by freakparade3 » 17 Jun 2008 18:43
_ wrote:jpb06080 wrote:I usually just use a key blank for this. You can buy shims pretty cheap. The only time they won't work is with kik cylinders that are still in the lock.
Wait, you mean you can shim some locks from the front? Most plugs I've seen have a greater diameter at the front as to prevent this.
What he means is you need access to the back of the cylinder to shim it. KIK locks don't give you that access. You insert a keyblank all the way into the lock, then insert your shim into the back. As you pull the blank out you push the shim in at the same time. This traps the driver pins above the shearline.
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by WOT » 18 Jun 2008 0:55
freakparade3 wrote:_ wrote:jpb06080 wrote:I usually just use a key blank for this. You can buy shims pretty cheap. The only time they won't work is with kik cylinders that are still in the lock.
Wait, you mean you can shim some locks from the front? Most plugs I've seen have a greater diameter at the front as to prevent this.
What he means is you need access to the back of the cylinder to shim it. KIK locks don't give you that access. You insert a keyblank all the way into the lock, then insert your shim into the back. As you pull the blank out you push the shim in at the same time. This traps the driver pins above the shearline.
Is the shim silicon sheet from theft detection tag from retail CD packaging and such?
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by globallockytoo » 18 Jun 2008 0:59
I have theorized for years about the possibility of front shimming. I still suspect it to be possible, if you can find something thin enough and pliable to bend around the face of a plug....would sure make picking a breeze.
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by Jaakko » 18 Jun 2008 1:17
Front shimming is possible with GLIP locks atleast in here, those are some 2-5 EUR el cheapo brand sold in stores. The gap is almost 0.1mm.
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