Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by Dak » 6 Dec 2008 17:37
 :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D I am sure some of you remember me griping about a medeco cam lock I had bought about a week ago and you so graciously helped me. There is no shear line in those little bastards, but for some reason I had to lift the pins to a certain height. Maybe because the slots for the sidebar fingers start at a certain point? all in all I PICKED IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! just thought I'd let you all know 
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Dak
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by zeke79 » 6 Dec 2008 18:07
Great job  ! Now move up to a 5 pin standard medeco pin tumbler lock for a bit more of a challenge. Once you get it, but a few more 5 pin locks and practice until you can pick them all then move up to a few 6 pin medeco's. Congrats, have fun, and keep picking, Zeke79
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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by Dak » 6 Dec 2008 18:51
Thank you! Actually I believe a m3 is in my future 
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by lunchb0x » 6 Dec 2008 20:35
NNNNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooooooooo I want to be able to pick my Medeco too  congreatulations, hopefully I will get mine soon, and only get it with 4 pins so far, its just a bit tricky rotating those last two.
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by Dak » 6 Dec 2008 22:23
mine has 5 pins  i got it just earlier last week. I couldnt slide back the bar to get any pins out so I couldn't do it with any less then five pins.
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by lunchb0x » 6 Dec 2008 22:51
the bar? as in the cap on the top? all I used is a flat blade screw driver (really small one) and pryed it off, if you want to put it back on but a slight bend down the middle of it, put it back on the top of the lock and use the hammer to flatten it again, though because i keep pulling mine apart I have a piece of duct tape to keep the pins in.
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by Dak » 6 Dec 2008 23:09
yes the cap. so you've destroyed yours eh? lol I think I may have to keep from removing pins then 
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Dak
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by lunchb0x » 6 Dec 2008 23:26
nope not destroyed, I can still re use it hust be carfull when prying it off and you should be able to re use it, but dont take it of and put it back to many times because eventually the lip the cap sits under will wear away
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by Squelchtone » 7 Dec 2008 1:19
Dak wrote::D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D I am sure some of you remember me griping about a medeco cam lock I had bought about a week ago and you so graciously helped me. There is no shear line in those little bastards, but for some reason I had to lift the pins to a certain height. Maybe because the slots for the sidebar fingers start at a certain point? all in all I PICKED IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! just thought I'd let you all know 
if I'm reading you right, then you must have a Medeco cam lock which as you have discovered does not have top pins blocking the plug from turning, instead the only locking point is the sidebar, and yes the holes in the pins for the sidebar to enter are at different angles and heights along the pin, so you still need elevation as well as rotation. congrats on picking your first Medeco! Squelchtone
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by raimundo » 7 Dec 2008 10:31
for dak and lunchbox, there is an easier way to remove the flat piece of metal that caps the pin holes on cylinders where it is slid in under an undercut edge of the groove.
take a piece of hacksaw blade, you only need a piece about as long as your finger. secure the cylinder in some holder, bench vise,
hold the piece of hacksaw blade on the brass strip you are going to remove by sliding it off the back of the lock, be certain to have the teeth cut toward the back of the lock.
Use a light hammer to tap on the corner of the hacksaw blade that is toward the front of the cylinder, this tap will cause the hacksaw teeth to set into the brass strip, and the angle of the tappping will drive the brass strip out of the groove with no significant damage, just a few places where you held the hacksaw in its grip.
Do not fail to hold the saw blade firmly while tapping on it, there is no point in letting it lose the grip it made on the first strike.
when it is half way off, you can pull on it with a plier to remove it, once again, you should avoid making new tool marks on the brass strip, don't bend it either. This is the way to get it off and have it be reusable without a lot of reshaping.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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by Dak » 7 Dec 2008 14:07
Thank you very much Rai, but I think I will wait until I buy a medeco with the allan screws on top to inspect the pins 
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by .45cal » 16 Dec 2008 14:35
Good Job I remember the feeling of picking a Medeco!! Makes you feel you are the man. Unfortunately I picked mine so many times that the chisel points have worn down and I can no longer pick it 
Insert meaningful quote here!
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by Cochise » 24 Dec 2008 11:21
on my medeco, there are no "caps", i cant screw-unscrew them as mush as i want, although they are pretty are to unscrew at first (especially using my picks, but i managed to do it without breaking any pick). Received it Saturday, picked it this morning with one pin, the 2 pins, no springs, just aligning the sidebars (with a nice view of the pins from the top  ) Now two pins with springs. What do you guys use to align the pins? Its kind hard to do with my pick, mostly luck, i think And Dak : don't bother buying a m3, all it has is the slider, and it really is a useless piece of metal you push with your pick once you've picked the lock  . This is what i bought, and seriously, it doesnt add much challenge
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by Dak » 25 Dec 2008 20:43
Cochise wrote:What do you guys use to align the pins? Its kind hard to do with my pick, mostly luck, i think
I use a half diamond pick
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