small padlocks n00bie question

[decadude]

I have started out just trying to pick padlocks i am 100% new to lock picking

i have a craftsman padlock that is big that i can pick everytime with ease i mean just seconds

i have a few smaller padlocks that are exceptionally harder

i ordered a bunch of bump keys b/c they seemed easy enough for a noobie like me to try to master that technique

i also have a pick gun

what tools would be best for smaller padlocks

[sfi72]

what tools would be best for smaller padlocks

Small tools!

[decadude]

what tools would be best for smaller padlocks

Small tools!

sorry could you be more specific

lol

like should i just buy a huge hand pick lock picking set

or is there also attachments that are made for smaller locks for the lock pick gun

[sfi72]

Well, how small are they exactly, maybe you could take a picture of one next to something for size reference? If they are really small, as in luggage locks and such then you'll need a small half diamond or short hook. Otherwise, a short or medium hook or a half diamond should be fine.

[decadude]

thanks i am at work i will take pictures later one is a smaller master lock i dont know if you know what they look like but its probably slightly bigger than a luggage lock maybe??

thanks for replying

this hobby seems like tools and the skills to use those tools are the name of the game

should i just buy a huge hand locking set??

[adrenalynn]

First - dump that pick gun and the bump keys. Blah. Unless you're doing it for a living, those are like cheating, like looking up the solution to a puzzle before you try it. [/end sermon]

If they're _really_ tiny, I use a bent sewing needle and a tension wrench made from a 1/16th allen wrench, or a 1/32nd if it's _reall really_ small.

I think you're probably talking about a 130-series Master Lock though (maybe you have a 120 series. Measure the inside shackle dimensions and the lock width. If the shackle is about a 6mm inside side-to-side, and the body is about 15-19mm wide, then it's a 120 series. If it's more like double that, then you're looking at a 130 series. Regular picks will work in both those, but you'll have more room to move around in there with the Euro-slim-picks, especially on a 120 series.

[barbarian]

Don't buy a huge set of anything. Most people here do all their picking with half a dozen or so picks.

Most of the small locks are hard to open only because the keyway is so small. You can't get anything in there to reach the last pin without lifting the others too high.

Look at the key for the lock, thats how much room you have to work. I would learn on a more normal sized lock at first. Then when you have some skills you will see how easy these are to open. All you really need is a very small pick and wrench.

[adrenalynn]

I think you're probably talking about a 130-series Master Lock though (maybe you have a 120 series. Measure the inside shackle dimensions and the lock width. If the shackle is about a 6mm inside side-to-side, and the body is about 15-19mm wide, then it's a 120 series. If it's more like double that, then you're looking at a 130 series.

Quoting myself, that's a new low for me...

Here's what a 130 measures out like (solid brass 130 series, but you get the idea...)

[unlisted]

First - dump that pick gun and the bump keys. Blah. Unless you're doing it for a living, those are like cheating, like looking up the solution to a puzzle before you try it. [/end sermon]

+1

[TheSkyer]

You may want to try EURO or Slimline picks for those kind of locks. They are smaller than the average pick making them very useful form small and tight key ways. You could of course if you have materials fabricate some small picks yourself.

[adrenalynn]

@Unlisted

I know I'm preaching the choir around here, but my perspective:

I guess it's a "different strokes" thing - but outside of work (and even at work, generally), if I pick up a lock, I wanna know what makes it tick. Ramming a snap-gun inside there just proves Newton wasn't a complete idiot. Since *I* didn't come up with the whole "conservation of momentum/transference of energy" concept, it doesn't mean much to me. I could run out and buy one of those desktop ball-toy-thangs, drop the ball on one side, watch the one on the other ricochet off, rinse, lather, repeat. Let's face it: it's disrespectful if nothing else. A proper respect to the lock's designer is paid when you feel around inside there, fight with it for a little bit, then go "AHA! I know what you did, sneaky little devil!" [CLICK!] Man, that's a good feeling. I won. He tossed his best at me, and my best was better. I have a competitive streak... Against a really worthy adversary, it's like sex with my clothes on. [cough] Overshare, sorry.

@TheSkyer agreed on the euro-slim, and I did mention those. I think a "noob" might be better served learning to keep their motions precise an unwastefull. I hate to parade out the high-end tools on a low-end lock. For me, there comes a time when I need that crutch. If I don't depend upon it too early, I get farther. I don't think those even existed when I started picking locks - at least I never saw 'em. And with the exception of locks that really _are_ that narrow, I don't need them today. If the pick is to sloppy-small in the keyway, I have a tendency to miss the center of a pin too. But that's my failing, and that opinion is probably just my "I walked uphill both ways over broken glass in the snow" dues-paying thing, so I'll just shut up and go to bed now.