Multlock taken apart

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There may well be another topic covering the same, but I tried the search-function without any findings. Please let me know if this has been covered previously.

I found a Mul T lock in a wastebin, and decided to open it. I would like to make a cutaway as well, but right now, I have too many other projects. Since I had no key, I gave it a quick attempt at picking. I a left-up 5 pin H&M, as well as right-up 7 pin H&M tool. Since none of those would help me very much, I tried with the pin from right-up in a pin vise. To make it short, it didn't open easily.

Also, since I was considering to make this a practice-lock, I would like to be able to change pins without complete dismantle. When looking closer at the lock , I dicovered that the plugs covering the holes had a countersink, I decided to attempt to drill, tap and pull them.

First, hand drill with 2.5mm(yes, the picture is tilted. Sorry)

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Next, tap the plug M3

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Make the extractor from a piece of scrap steel, 2 pcs of M8x40 and M3x13

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Then, ready for testing/pulling (sorry, tilted again. )

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Success

Pulled out cleanly. The plugs can even be put back in if need be.

Now, just pull the others for a complete dismantle

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Voila, all the components


Now on to some cleaning and tapping the holes M5 for a grub screw for easy change of setup.

I also found the (probable) reason for this lock being thrown away,- somebody has shoved a piece of wood to the far end, probably preventing the key from entering fully. It also made it hard for my pick to reach the bottom pin.

BTW: DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHERE TO GET SPARE TIPS/PICKS FOR H&M LEFT-UP?
I broke the two that came with the pick, and have looked many places. All I can find is for right-up(I even ordered some from Hong Kong that stated left-up, but something must have happened during transit )

I will post pictures of the finished product when I the correct grub-screws.(Thinking of M5, but suggestions are welcome)
Bye for now,
Ed

[femurat]

Excellent job!

It's always satisfying to play with big pins, like medeco, dom, mtl...

You have very little room between holes, so use the smallest tap possible. You don't need much force to keep the springs in.
If there isn't enough material to tap 2 adjacent chambers, just tap the first and the last ones, and then build a cap to cover all the holes. It needs 3 pins to fit chambers 2, 3, 4 and 2 screws for chambers 1 and 5. If you find an easy way to fix the 3 central pins to a flat piece of steel you've done.

Cheers

[SnowyBoy]

Very similar to my padlock dismantling tutorial I just use a self tapping screw instead of pre-tapping the holes.

http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/719/ ... torial.jpg

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Snowyboy, thank you very much for that link!
I hope to get on with my ABUS 65/50 cutaway, and that was just the info/pictures I was looking for
Could you please tell me how tight the 6th pin fits? Is it only the first few mm's that you need to pull, or is it a proper press-fit all the way? The reason I am asking, is I have already drilled it, and thought I saw some sort of shear line between an upper- and lower- 6th pin.

Has anybody else tried the dye-penetrant for identifying pin-holes? Like they use in NDT?

Brgds,
Ed

[SnowyBoy]

Snowyboy, thank you very much for that link!
I hope to get on with my ABUS 65/50 cutaway, and that was just the info/pictures I was looking for
Could you please tell me how tight the 6th pin fits? Is it only the first few mm's that you need to pull, or is it a proper press-fit all the way? The reason I am asking, is I have already drilled it, and thought I saw some sort of shear line between an upper- and lower- 6th pin.

Has anybody else tried the dye-penetrant for identifying pin-holes? Like they use in NDT?

Brgds,
Ed

Glad it helped!

The fit seems to be best around the top (where you drill)..... I usually insert the used bar back in....... it does the job of holding the cylinder and you can also push it quite freely upwards to dismantle it.

[SnowyBoy]

Oh and yes, there is a sheer. As soon as the end of the rod passes it, the cylinder will come out (with the key in of course).

One thing I also forgot to mention is the part that sits in the trough of the cylinder is ever so slightly smaller than the rest of the rod.

[Theist17]

What kind of a waste basket has Mul-T-Locks in it? I long for such trash. Haha

Great job, though. I hope I can get ahold of a Mul-T-Lock at some point. It would make picking while studying Hebrew so much more enjoyable.

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So, finally got hold of the correct grubscrews, M5x5mm, and the correct M5 bottom-tap.

Sorry about the tilted pictures. I have tried to correct them, but I am obviously not doing it right

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I indexed the holes, and made 5 turns on each, and it came out like this:
.
Deburred and cleaned for swarf.

Then, ineserted the pins, springs and screws back in. Ready for action

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I had to modify my 7-pin garrison tool to fit the 5-pin lock. But now it works on both. Tested and it´s working


It worked great, and I have already opened a few pad-/locks with lost keys. MLL(my local locksmith) will be very happy. I will write more of my findings when opening them, in another post.