Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by WolfSpring » 11 Jan 2011 13:41
Ok, maybe I'm overthinking the issue here, maybe the lock scares me that I"ll mess it up. But I have a Corbrin Emhart mortice cylindar which I'm assuming I can't just unlock and use a plug follower to take pins out due to groves in the lock itself. I assume the spring cover just slides out, but is there a trick to this, a special tool so that I don't destroy it in the process? I don't have a straight pic or I'd try that and my pointiest screw driver would not wedge in there and I scratched the hell out of it and figured I'd stop and seek help.
Thanks, and if I'm overthinking this I think i'll bang my head on the desk repetivily...
What most people call intelligence I call common sense.
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WolfSpring
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by atlsmitty » 11 Jan 2011 15:13
WolfSpring wrote:Ok, maybe I'm overthinking the issue here, maybe the lock scares me that I"ll mess it up. But I have a Corbrin Emhart mortice cylindar which I'm assuming I can't just unlock and use a plug follower to take pins out due to groves in the lock itself. I assume the spring cover just slides out, but is there a trick to this, a special tool so that I don't destroy it in the process? I don't have a straight pic or I'd try that and my pointiest screw driver would not wedge in there and I scratched the hell out of it and figured I'd stop and seek help.
Thanks, and if I'm overthinking this I think i'll bang my head on the desk repetivily...
Your right a follower cannot be used on the Emharts. Spring cover may be pretty tightly in there but straight poke tool, very sharp scratch all, ice pick should get it out. Screw driver will most likely not work(would mangle the cover). Just make sure with whatever tool you use that your angle is not steep, obviously the tool would dig in to deeply into the cover with a steep angle. Might wanna order some different sizes of covers to keep as replacements.
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atlsmitty
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by WolfSpring » 11 Jan 2011 15:40
I've not run accross these as parts at all, only place I can think to order from would be the manufacturer. I don't have a pick anywhere around and I think in order to get this thing off I may have to force it or pry it and replacement covers would be great. Any idea of which site may carry these? Thanks so much.
What most people call intelligence I call common sense.
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WolfSpring
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by atlsmitty » 11 Jan 2011 16:39
WolfSpring wrote:I've not run accross these as parts at all, only place I can think to order from would be the manufacturer. I don't have a pick anywhere around and I think in order to get this thing off I may have to force it or pry it and replacement covers would be great. Any idea of which site may carry these? Thanks so much.
in my opinion mortise cylinder spring covers are some what interchangeable, they can be clipped to length and possibly width the important thing is that in the end when you've slid the cover on or stamped it in place that you have not damaged the lock and that the cover is securely in place. again that is my opinion. you don't have to find a the factory spring cap cover. im sure that where your located has a local locksmith supplier where you can purchase spring cap covers. just to make sure , what you in have in hand is a threaded mortise cylinder? Emhart has deadbolt cylinders(not mortise) that have a different spring cap cover.
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atlsmitty
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by WolfSpring » 11 Jan 2011 17:21
it is a threaded mortise and I finally got it off and did the infamous cut myself too... It's not to banged up and could go back on but why? so I started looking at what I already had and found a ben clip it's only a little wider, problem is I have a file and sandpaper,w orking on it now will get pictures up when it's done, but I bent the bottom loop part up broke off the part that connects to the pan and am going to use it as a quick slide. Fileing sucks and is uneven, but this will work well and someone with a dremel could do it really fast. Thanks for the help.
What most people call intelligence I call common sense.
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WolfSpring
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by atlsmitty » 11 Jan 2011 17:27
Your welcome.
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atlsmitty
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by WolfSpring » 11 Jan 2011 18:01
It's a little rough but it works great slides in and out with just enough force to not slide out on it's own. CIMG1104 by xpakratx, on Flickr CIMG1109 by xpakratx, on Flickr CIMG1106 by xpakratx, on Flickr
What most people call intelligence I call common sense.
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WolfSpring
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by FarmerFreak » 11 Jan 2011 19:26
Nice job on your spring cap. Very cool for a practice cylinder.  I'm sure you'll let me know if you ever do get it picked, that would be really cool. Wolf, you already know that I haven't had one of those locks in my hands. But I have an idea that, even if it works, it won't be of any use to you now... I was wondering if it was possible (maybe not plausible...) to take a key and cut off the bottom posts of the key, and then you may be able to disassemble/reassemble the lock with a special follower when the lock is turned at 180 degrees. It's just a thought, nothing serious. 
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by WolfSpring » 11 Jan 2011 19:40
that would be possible, but you take the chance of sping the driver pins out of place and not being able to re interlock the pins they are free floating 360 degree turnable pins, not like medeco where they are groved.
What most people call intelligence I call common sense.
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WolfSpring
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by atlsmitty » 11 Jan 2011 20:41
FarmerFreak wrote: I was wondering if it was possible (maybe not plausible...) to take a key and cut off the bottom posts of the key, and then you may be able to disassemble/reassemble the lock with a special follower when the lock is turned at 180 degrees.
Wouldn't the driver heads that rest in the grooves of plug, when disconnected from the bottom half, still prevent the plug from being removed with a follower? The gaps on the bottom of the key simply allow the protruding head of the driver resting in grooves to pass through during plug rotation. Reason for this is so that a key without these gaps would prevent rotation even if a pin stacks were brought to a sheer line and top driver was disconnected from bottom. Its a way of controlling duplication.
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atlsmitty
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by WolfSpring » 11 Jan 2011 21:14
Oh yeah the key is two thin to allow the plug to come out if it was filed down, didnt' even think of that.
What most people call intelligence I call common sense.
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WolfSpring
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by atlsmitty » 11 Jan 2011 21:36
WolfSpring wrote:Oh yeah the key is two thin to allow the plug to come out if it was filed down, didnt' even think of that.
Key would actually be to short and wouldn't raise the pin stacks to sheer line. that is secondary though, main reason that plug cannot be removed with follower is that while the protrusion from the driver(top pin) rests in the grooves of the plug, the plug cannot slide out. Unloading springs and pin stack from top is only way with this lock. would definitely like updates on how your picking of the lock is going when you get a chance
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atlsmitty
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by WolfSpring » 11 Jan 2011 22:08
Yeah it's a beast two pins interlocking I can pick easily third i've done twice but not consecutive so not moving forward to four yet. Problem is room, picking the thing is kida easy concept but that key way will not allow you get in there after a couple pins to rotate and push I'm thinking a bent hook and/or a tiny diamond for the rotating, biggest problem is this is way different from medeco, medeco has groves in the pin chambers allowing the key pins to only rotate a total of 40 degrees either total emharts it's the full 360 so just a little off and you can't do it. I'm not saying I will be the one to crack this lock but I will surely give it one hell of a run.
What most people call intelligence I call common sense.
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WolfSpring
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by FarmerFreak » 11 Jan 2011 22:40
atlsmitty wrote:main reason that plug cannot be removed with follower is that while the protrusion from the driver(top pin) rests in the grooves of the plug, the plug cannot slide out.
That's why filing the bottom of the key down and turning the lock 180 degrees would be important (if this is even possible, again I've never had one of these locks in my hands). But if the cylinder was turned to that position, the grooves in the plug wouldn't be interacting with the interlocking pins, only the key would be. Unless the key was filed down. Don't forget guys, we can't actually discuss picking these in the open forums. Not that that really matters on this lock. I haven't heard of any tips or tricks that can even help with this lock. Nor have I ever heard of someone actually picking one that has interlocking pins in every chamber.
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FarmerFreak
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by straightpick » 11 Jan 2011 23:33
Sounds like you have an Emhart High Security lock cylinder. The pins should have a "T" shape on one end. These pins MUST be loaded from the top-you cannot use a plug follower. You have to interlock the proper pins, drop them in the top, put the springs in and then put the slide cover on. Also DON'T file the bottom of the key down. The slots or "crenellations" on the bottom of the key are necessary to turn the key more than 180 degrees. You cannot buy new cylinders anymore, you can only get them if you have a registered system for replacement. This is due to a lawsuit by Medeco.
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