step one: disassembly
the removal of the plug was a simple matter of pressing one wafer at a time from the bottom and sliding it out instead of using a key or pick to remove it. sidenote: due to the way the shell was constructed, on this lock it was possible to unlock it once it was removed by pushing each wafer to the set position while applying tension, then simply turning the plug.
once the plug was removed, i continued disassembling the housing to see why it was so hard to turn the plug, a piece is not shown, a thin metal ring i removed using a gerber that prevented simply sliding the cam out of the housing.
a rear view of the housing, showing the indentions the ball bearings fit in, preventing proper application of tension, forcing overtensioning to account for the added resistance...
this shows the plug from the top, notice how the wafers don't protrude from this side, one of the major function differences between a wafer and pin/tumbler lock. this design makes oversetting very easy to do and couple with the ball bearings and spring, if this lock is overset, i've had to start at the beginning every time.
here, you see the cam locked into the plug, with the hole the spring fits in and pushes on the bearings at each side of the lock. there is a nipple and recess that interlock between the plug and cam, giving a very smooth and almost rattle free connection between the two, making it hard to tell if a pin is binding, or if the bearings are absorbing the tension. the difference on this particular one between a pin binding and moving freely is almost none, as the pins set but will still move freely to overset. the plug in this pic is upside down, and shows the way it actually locks. the wafers stick out of the bottom and therefore must be lifted to where they clear the shear line, but oversetting raises the top of the wafer above the shear line on the opposite side. on this one, there is about 1/64th of an inch of play you have to work with. sidenote: one of those dastardly little ball bearings is in the background.
the parts of the lock, all laid out. not much left to explain on this photo, except that the little metal ring slides on the cam until it butts up against the rear of the housing, keeping it securely seated and the bearings on the proper track. yet another sidenote: the cam has to come out the same direction of the plug, it has a ridge that prevents it from coming out of the back of the housing.
the plug from the bottom side, notice that the springs alternate the side of the keyway in placement, this helps balance the force and seems to slightly complicate binding, as the force is not fully on one side or the other.
size reference: southord half diamond pick is too tall to fit under the first wafer without disturbing its rest. note that this is without the tension wrench.
now, with the tension wrench from the c1510 set. this wrench is a short handled wrench that is recessed on both sides, and is as thick as the pick is wide. the height of the keyway is slightly shorter than a masterlock #3 key blank.
