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Hi-Shear gutted

Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.

Hi-Shear gutted

Postby averagejoe » 4 Sep 2011 19:02

First: This is also posted on another website by ME under the username Riyame. The pictures were taken by me, of my own lock. I did not rip this post from another person.

Hello everybody,

Please feel free to correct any terminology that I did not get right, it is the only way to learn.
Took apart my Hi Shear and took some photos. I didn't take pics of how to take down etc.
Some info: The Hi Shear uses a Medeco 6 pin Classic cylinder. It uses the EXACT same one as in an 831b. The only differences are with the cuts on the operating keys to get it into the control position.

Front
Image
Back
Image
Keyway
Image

First comes the components of the plug.
The anti drill disc (Called ADD from now). It kind of just sits in the bottom of the keyway and is held into place by the next piece, it does not attach to the cylinder in any way.
Image
The piece that holds the ADD in. It spreads outward to create friction to stay in place.
Image
This little piece is used to take up the extra space from the ADD and its retainer so that the cylinder sits even.
How it fits in:
Image
Other side:
Image

They all fit into the bottom. The ADD first, followed by the small metal part, then the silver retainer.
Image
No spacer
Image
With the spacer. The retainer is lifted a small amount to better see it.
Image

The ball bearing serves dual purposes. It prevents the cylinder from just dropping out, and it also activates little rods that lock the plug into place.
Image
Be careful, it just falls right out.
Image
The locking bars
Image
Taking them out. DONT PULL THEM! There is a little spring that you really dont want to extend. they both come out together.
Image
Out
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The bars. Notice how one is a little bigger than the other? That is because the hole where the bearing sits is slightly off center, so remember which side the bigger one was on.
Image
With the bearing. When not in the control position, the cam pushes the bearing against the bars and that pushes them out into little slots where they lock the plug into place.
Image
When in the control position, the cam turns and the bearing gets pushed into a small dimple allowing the spring to pull the bars and retract them into the plug allowing you to remove it.
Image

The back of the cylinder and underside of the cam.
Image

Fully assembled plug in neutral position. Notice the bars on the sides?
Image
Image

In the control position. The bars are gone, and the little gap between the cam and plug on the right side is gone:
Image

In the unlocked position
Image

The round pillar on the cam goes into the slot on the shackle, and the "flat rounded" part follows in the track on t he lower right.
Image

Here is where those 2 rods go in the lock
Image

And something I bet nobody has noticed before, there is a rod of some sort inserted into the middle of the shackle. The shackle spins freely to help prevent attack.
Image


And in case anybody was curious, here are the pins:
Image
Bottom pins:
1: ARX w/ false gate
2: ARX w/ false gate
3: ARX w/ false gate
4: ARX w/o false gate
5: Regular w/ false gate
6: ARX w/ false gate
Top pins are all regular except number 5. It is a modified mushroom pin. The bottom of it looks like a barrel pin.
Image

And the key: The 5th cut is the highest, and also with the barrel/mushroom pin.
Image

As a small afterthought: I was curious as to the holes on the bottom the first time I saw a Hi-shear.
1 standard S&G military chain (Borrowed from my 833):
Image

+ a Hi Shear:
Image

= An answered question ;)
Image

Enjoy ;)
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averagejoe
 
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Joined: 17 Jul 2011 6:12
Location: Canada

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