An easier way to take it apart with all of this mess is to cut the center pin and hammer all the way through and keep it there to keep the cirlce pieces in and the knock the other pin out after that to take off the back
but u still need to grind the corners
i'd assume that all master padlocks use the same insides, but with a different casing, the pictures are clear though, so they should come in handy to someone.
Some models of Master locks have a keyhole in the back for a secondary method of entry. I would assume that the parts used are standard, and that hole is just to accomodate such models. Just my guess tho.
I agree-- those false gates are pretty shallow compared to a traditional combination lock. Wonder if it makes it any easier to distinguish between real and false when pulling the shackle and turning to find the combo.
The real gate is now easily distinguishable from the false gates on this lock as the dial will turn between two full numbers on the real gate, but only moves a little over 1 full number on the false gates. Seems obvious now that I think about it.
However, the process of narrowing down the 3rd number from taking the 12 possible ones, throwing out the 7 .5 numbers, and getting the unique ones position number does not work on this lock.
I have 0, 10, 20, 23, 30 as non .5 numbers. The actual 3rd number is 10, not 23. Anyone know why that might be?