*hoping* to make a schlage cutaway, need help

[Minion]

I'm thinking about making a schlage cut-away lock, but I'm curious as to how I can get the pins out before I do it (I need to do that... right?).



that's what I'm dealing with (I'll only make one cut-away)

I can hardly fit a tension wrench underneath the plate that holds the pins in, let alone a pair of pliers.

Any other methods of making a cutaway lock that I should know about?

[n2oah]

I'd make a cutaway similar to the one Matt Blaze made with that lock.
It looks like this:


You're correct, to make a cutaway you'll need to take out all of the pins. For the lock you have, I recommend either screwing the thing off that holds the tailpiece in, then simply pulling out the core (if you have the key) in a plastic bag (so pins don't shoot everywhere) or you can try sliding the spring cover off.
Then you'll need to devise some plan to keep the plug in place while you cut into the lock (unless you don't want to cut into the plug)
To do the cutting, you'll need a milling machine (I assume this is what Blaze used-- see the curved shaped near the keyway of the lock? It's probably from a curved bit) or a lot of patience and a dremel. If you don't have a milling machine in your garage, you can call up a machineist or something.

The rest is self-explainitory.

[vector40]

How. cow... taking the pins out first... that's a GREAT idea.

:/ wish I were kidding...

[Mad Mick]

With any cutaway object, the primary concern is to strip the assembly of components that you wish to remain intact. Take a lock for example...the idea is to view the working components in their original placement, without altering the function. This process involves removal of 'excess' material, which would not interfere with the original working design of the product...e.g. the 'excess' material which encases the 'bible', in order to view the pin stacks. You would not want to be cutting/grinding the pins/springs/plug, whilst making the cutaway

Firstly, the plug/pins/springs would have to be removed, then depending on your severity of cutaway, the material required to view the internals. Ideally, the least possible amount of material is removed, to gain an acceptible view, resulting in a smaller deviation from the intended purpose of design. A narrow slit, showing the components of a pin-stack, is sufficient to view 'what is happening' whilst picking, versus large cut-outs where the pins may become unnaturally 'caught-up' on the edges of the cuts.

[cracksman]

Minion,
Cut away cores are nice, but cutting them out
of a mortice lock seems like a real pain in the arse.
You can do one in about 5 minutes with a dremel
and a removable core Schlage deadbolt if you have one.

p.s. I think you have enough skills now, do you really
need a cut-out?
If your doing it for "shitz and giggles" then just pick the
lock first and remove core and pins.

[fixer]

Depress the pin on the back, unscrew the tailpiece retainer and then shim the lock open. Or pick it open of course.

I do 5 or more of these a day and can shim them in a few seconds whereas picking can take several minutes.

[cha0s]

so if i stick the key in and turn it the plug should just pull right out aslong as i took the bolt off the back?

[vector40]

Yep -- so make sure you get your follower in there, and don't just stick the key in and then go make tea, because when you pick the thing up the plug can jolly well fall right out.

[keysman]

Tools needed:
1 plastic bag big enough to put the lock into and still have some room for your hand to enter the bag.


1 correct key or a shim and a blank key , + lock pick .

Directions:
Depress the brass pin on the back of the cylinder, ( use a pick or poke tool of some kind) remove the knurled cap by turning counter clockwise ,while depressing the brass pin.

Place the knurled cap, the tail piece and any other parts that come loose+ the pin and the spring that is under the pin into the plastic bag ( you may have to tap the face of the lock to get the spring out.)



Use the key , shim or pick the lock open. Be careful it can come apart as soon as it is picked/open.
Place the entire cylinder in the plastic bag and remove the plug. Just push gently from the back towards the front.
Watch all the little pieces bounce around the in bag.

Leaving the "shell" (the big part) in the bag, check to see that all springs and top pins are out of the chambers.
Remove as necessary.
Repeat for the plug.

Remove "empty cylinder " from bag.
Empty the "plug and remove from bag.
Place bag+ contents in a safe place.


Proceed to cut lock body until done to your satisfaction.

To reassemble reverse process from above.

[n2oah]

I got inspired to make a cutaway lock, and I decided to use an American Padlock Cylinder because it has a lot of security pins. If you want me to make you one, PM me.

[cracksman]

Very nice N2oah,

I've done the same with some Schlages. Just
to throw in a comment for sake of discussion, I
have found that the cutouts act a bit differently
then their "whole" companions, especially if tension
is applied counter-clockwise. I do not want to
shy people away from using them, just to point
out that they do have some flaws, albiet minor.

I would love to see someone produce, either a sister
half of the lock in a clear polymer, or an entire lock
that way. I don't have the talent or the time, but
that would be nice-A clear insight into dimples would
be even nicer

[vector40]

By the way, it really is a lot easier to make these from removable deadbolt (like Schlage Grade 1s are now, I believe), key-in-knob, or padlock cylinders. Mortises can be easier to acquire, but you've got to remove a LOT of material.

[Minion]

So I've noticed

after all of this, I decided that I'm not going to make a cutaway... of this type of lock, at least. Now, I have a few master lock no. 1 cylinders... (why would you need a master lock cutaway? they're easy enough as is...) that I could mess with if I get the time and dremel bits.