Master Lock "You Key" Locks

[Chucklz]

Anyone have any sort of experience with the design of these locks. The general principle is you buy the lock uncombinated at your hardwarestore, insert a cut blank, prehaps to expand a system. Then you invert the lock in a vise and using a bit of metal rod with a cut for the key, you give the lock cylinder a good smack, and there you go instant keyed lock. I beleive that this can only be done once, ie you cant MK these locks. Anyone have any thought on contstruction?

[Areomyst]

I have no idea, but it sounds interesting. Do you perhaps have a link to a site that offeres such locks? I'd like to know more about it myself.

~Josh

[Varjeal]

You are correct...this are a one shot system, and you'd better give that tool a good swat the first time too or you run into problems...trust me...they are a low-cost alternative to purchasing rekeyable locks, especially for companies that use mass quantities of these locks for such things as small sheds, etc. They merely bring in their key, the lockie wacks out a dozen or whatever locks as they're standing there, and the customer walks out with a relatively good functioning lock.

The drawback to this system is that the locks are not extremely smooth operating as a standard or rekeyable padlock would be. Also, as I recall they are relatively limited in shackle lengths and widths.

Not a bad idea, though.

[DrDave]

The Master Padlock system uses a different, but similer deal. The Link for the "ReKey tool is:
http://doityourself.com/store/6596365.htm

For Master universal pin series uncoded padlocks. For use on Model Numbers: 1UP, 1UPLF, 3UP, 3UPLF, 5UP, and 5UPLF.

The other type that is mentioned on this thread is used in apartment and New-Home keying systems to "Lock-Out" the Show-Room / Realter Master Keys. But you need-NOT remove the cylinder.

DrDave-USA

[Chubby]

I don't know if anyones interested but there is also a system called 'power key' with this method it's the key you purchase as a virgin blank, the special key can then be inserted into any cylinder lock whilst being lightly tapped with a plastic hammer, turning the key with the right amount of tension combined with light tapping & the key will cut into the pins until the lock is opened, you end up with a perfectly cut key, no damage to the lock, and if done corectly is relatively quiet.

[Chucklz]

Varjeal, can you offer specifics of how the system works. From the one example that I own, which unfortunatly has already been "knocked up" It appears that the plug and bible are of dissimilar metals, the bible looks almost as though it were bronze, at least from what i can tell without really dissecting the lock. The key also appears to be inserted farther into the lock than a standard Master lock of the same size (IE a 3 vs a 3UP). From what I am thinking, it would seem that there are in the uncombinated state 4 springs and a total of 4 pins, not pin stacks, and that the hitting shears the pins at some desinated serration, thus resulting in a keyed lock. Am I way off here?

[Varjeal]

I'm going to have to dig up the specific info (I got a Master manual somewhere around on my shelves) but what you said about shearing the pin "stacK" sounds viable...I'll try and find the manual today and get back to ya with some more precise info.

[DrDave]

Chucklz, U R abit off... I've disassembled a few to take a peek... They have 5 Pin-Stacks, one of which does NOT get used in the end. Four Tumblers with standard serrations where the "Cuts" will be. Four Top-Pins look to be "Normal".

Actually, I've used the NON-Cut serrated pins to act as Pick-Resistant Top-Pins in other locks... However they are of Padlock size, thus smaller than a "Normal" Door-Type lock's tumbler(s).

Go to Page 12 in the "PDF" File below for a pix of HOW it works:
http://www.southernlock.com/cdcatalog/PADLKS.pdf

DrDave-USA

[Chucklz]

5 pin stacks, of course! How else will the lock operate after you "key" it. These are a bit harder to pick than regular master locks in my opinion. I guess the serrated pins act as a bit of a security pin, but probably not much.

[PickedLocks]

[[color=blue] Im new at this whole lockpicking art and i was wondering if someone who could help me out in a way i might understand i read these post's and i dont understand a thing they are saying so if anyone think's they could help me out give me a reply. Thanks

[piepie]

Major bump! Sounds like the lock could get jamed up very easily by doing this.

[Eyes_Only]

I've worked with these before. After I "rekey" these padlocks I put one of its keys in a imperssioning grip and just turn the key left to right in the cylinder over and over for a couple mins. That seems to take the stickiness problem out of them.

[thelockpickkid]

I have picked tons of these, they are as easy as any Master, if not easier. The ones I have are very smooth operating, you would never know the difference between this #3UP or a regular #3.

[Arrowofdarkness]

Major bump! Sounds like the lock could get jamed up very easily by doing this.

Thats one hell of a bump! Impressive ...

Anyways what about the SmartKey technology I'm starting to see on Kwikset and a few other brand implementing? Basically you turn your key to a certain position, then insert their "tool" (a small thin piece of metal) and your new key and viola! You just rekeyed your lock.

http://www.kwikset.com/Files/Flash/SmartSeries/tutorial.swf


Can you pick the lock and then rekey the lock? I'm wondering what goes on more in depth. A quick search doesn't turn up anything. I'd rather not take one apart if someone already has a cutaway or did a rundown of how it works.

A little off topic, but the lock reminded me of the Smartkey locks ...

[dnullify]

That's the new lock i've gotten installed a couple weeks ago...

I can't pick it to begin with, so picking then rekeying isn't all that easy or practical.