oil ?

by **prof** » 11 Nov 2005 16:44

thanks all for the replies.

someone said that wd40 is just diesel oil, I don't know. but over the years I've seen people free off rusted nuts and bolts etc. that were difficult to remove, only for them to seize up completely soon after. thing is that anything described as a clening or penetrating oil will remove grease, oil, rust etc. and often leave a pretty clean and shiny metal surface, just right for mr. rust.
so after freeing off and removing always, always lubricate properly with grease, oil or whatever before re assembly. (I'm talking here metals in general)

by **Pickermeapie** » 11 Nov 2005 19:40

WD-40 is flammable so its not Diesel. The reason the bolts sieze back up is because WD-40 evaporates. It truly is a light duty oil. Doesn't last very long.

by **GateTwelve** » 11 Nov 2005 20:34

I know there's a lot of controversy about graphite, but it has always worked very well for me. Brinks locks are not very weather resistant, but my father insists on using one for the boat trailer. When he lost the key I tried to pick that rusty SOB for nearly an hour. After I powdered some graphite and worked it around inside the lock the pins moved freely, and I was able to pick the lock in a matter of minutes.

Moral of the story: it's going to always be graphite for me. I've been contemplating one of those silicon based lubricants lately, though...

by **cheyenne** » 12 Nov 2005 9:59

i've found wd40 makes lock picking very easy and as a lubricant it's also ok been using it for years never any problems or comebacks.

by **devnill** » 27 Nov 2005 20:50

wd-40 would work great in the short run because it loosens stuff up. the problem with this is that over a short period of time, the lubricant dries up leaving a lot of gunk. this is bad for the lock, and will make it harder to pick.

by **Nekura** » 27 Dec 2005 23:51

In one of my locksmithing books it says something about dos and don't of lubricant. If I can find the right book, I'll post what it says.

by **Nekura** » 28 Dec 2005 0:13

Well, this dosn't really concern the picking but this it what it says. And I think there's alot more on this but I can't find it right now.
"Use WD-40 or a similar product to clean and lubricate a lockset mechanism. If the bolt tends to stick, clean it carefully with a spray cleaner. Then wipe the bolt dry with a clean cloth. If the key begins to "work hard" in the lock, place a small quantity of powdered graphite on the key, insert it in the lock, and turn the key back and forth a few times. Never use oil to lubricate a cylinder lock!"
I think it also says somthing about how oil tends to attract dirt and lint. It says alot more on this I just can't find the spot right now. I'll try look in my glossary.

by **Nekura** » 28 Dec 2005 0:37

(sorry for the tripple post) I did some searching on google and I found alot on lock lubricant. They even have some on lockpickshop.com

by **digital_blue** » 28 Dec 2005 1:11

3-in-1 oil works pretty well for me. I can't say I've had a whole lot of problems with attracting dirt.

And awwwww heck... I'll say it. I've been known to use WD40 on my practice locks from time to time. It works for the short term if you're having trouble picking. By a week later it seems there's almost nothing left of the WD40 anyway, and I can use proper lube and the lock is like new.

I have graphite powder, but I hate to use it. Messy as all getup and I really can't say it works any better than the 3-in-1.

I wonder if we've ever had a discussion about lubricants here before? :roll:

Well... I've gone so far as to admit to the WD40.. I guess I've got no dignity left to lose so here goes.... MAZOLA!!! (Little reference for the veterans here.

)

db

by **illusion** » 28 Dec 2005 6:24

Mazola....... good for parties that's all I've got to say.

maybe..... a..... "Mozola-party" perhaps?

by **prof** » 28 Dec 2005 6:26

seems that we have gone from lock picking to lock care, and very interesting to. my original question was just really on the picking side, as whether best to lubricate before trying to pick or whether this would make it more difficult.
but as the topic has developed,
I have some points of note from before I started picking (well trying to) I have padlocks which tend to collect much dirt (even sand & grit) inside them, like padlocks used on toolboxes & dinghies,
to clean I would drop them into a jar of parafin or petrol & leave overnight, then a blast with an airesol to blow out the dislodged grit & gunge, leave to drain, apply 3 in 1, leave to stand, then apply heavier (engine) oil.
seems to work ok, but I suppose that these locks can be classed as working in 'extreme' conditions.

by **devildog** » 28 Dec 2005 13:20

For use in extreme conditions, pin tumbler locks are generally a bad choice as they have one fatal flaw--springs

This is why the Masterlock warded padlock is still really popular, especially for outdoor applications; it has no springs so there's nothing to rust and jam up the lock. I will also say that the BEST choice for a situation such as this, that will be a hel$ of a lot more secure than a warded lock, would be an Abloy--they don't have any springs and are known to be very resistant to the elements, and they're very high quality, high security locks.

by **Nekura** » 28 Dec 2005 15:36

In a kwikset I got for one of my locksmithing practices. There was this gooy, gel, gold, clear stuff. I not sure what kind of lubricant it is. Does anyone work with something like this?

by **Octillion** » 28 Dec 2005 19:26

Grease?

by **prof** » 29 Dec 2005 14:16

hi devildog,

thanks for that info, which I will consider purchasing, although they do sound expensive, & I haven't a yacht at the moment.
when I had a boat on moorings my mate & I frequently shared our dinghies & each had keys to the other, my mate however has a habit of breaking the lock (or chain) & throwing it away & replacing it (at frequent intervals) when he found any difficulty in unlocking it.

my dinghy at one point went missing & I thought that it had been left loose & drifted away, only for it to turn up 4 years later at the marina (a few hundred yards away) with the name painted out. I spoke to the employee at the marina office, then rang later in the week to confirm that I was going to collect it. at this point I was told that there were 4 years marina charges to pay on it before release.
I told them to have the bill ready so that I could produce it at the police office where I would charge them with recieving stolen property & aiding & abetting a crime.
when I arrived at the weekend the dinghy had been brought out, cleaned, polished & some repairs done to it, it was handed over (FOC) with many apologises, & a complimentary tide-table.

my mates yacht is secured with a padlock, but the screws on the asp are left exposed so as to easily be removed, it is his view that if somebody wants to get in then they will do, & this way he would suffer less damage to his boat as a consequence, the lock of course is a visual deterant for a casual theif or vandal who would not prefer to go further.

oil ?

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