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by pip » 15 Mar 2006 18:10
.
just another idea for a tension tool
i haven't made this one yet
just thinking " what if "
from the front - turning clockwise
the good point about this is most
of the keyway bottom is open for a pick
the only problem with this one is maybe at the bend
and possible problems for right-handed/left-handed pickers
and the direction needed to turn
comments ?
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pip
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by mh » 15 Mar 2006 19:10
pip wrote:. just thinking " what if "
I'd think that when you apply a force to the 'grip', you will pull it right out of the cylinder.
Somehow the force distribution between the 'grip' and the 2 contact points doesn't seem right.
Just my 0.02 EUR.
mh
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by SFGOON » 15 Mar 2006 19:22
I'd tell you it's a bad idea, but I actually know this desperate idiot who drilled two small holes in a pin tumbler plug because the two prong tension wrench (the only one I - er he had,) wouldn't fit in the keyway. This guy forgot his wrenches but remembered his drill. (In his defense tension wrenches are small and easy to forget.)
Now for the on-topic bit. How is the end that contacts the top of the pulg going to apply tension, or is it only there to apply fulcrum? If fulcrum is the case, then why not put the wrench in the bottom where it won't interfere with the pick? I have a hard time seeing how the top bit will create tension without filing the tup of the plug.
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by sams choice » 15 Mar 2006 21:24
i am just home on break right now from work, but when i get time tonight i will try the new design from some spring steel i grinded down. i know that an aluminum can can is way to fragile for that little piece that sticks out. Why have the break in it like that? it looks really good though.
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by pip » 15 Mar 2006 22:21
ATTENTION
this mock-up is made of photo paper
this is for visual reference only
from the front
from the bottom

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by Exodus5000 » 15 Mar 2006 22:29
Well let me start by saying, Pip, I'm really diggin' the unique tension wrench designs. I really like the idea of creating a better, more efficient tension wrench. Far more attention is placed on pick design and I think tensioning technology has gone largely ignored.
What I want to ask about your design though is, how would it provide better feedback or be a better design than simply using an L wrench in the upper part of the keyway?
Though I've never used them, I'd wager the best tension wrenches on the market yet is are the falle safe wrenches. Opinions?
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by pip » 15 Mar 2006 23:01
i don't know if this would be a more efficient design
i'm just throwing out different ideas/designs
as for speed picking/raking - 5 locks in a row
this would never replace the L shape tension tool
as for feedback, i'll have to wait untill
i can get some suitable material
and try out these designs over a variety of locks
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by Gordon Airporte » 15 Mar 2006 23:02
I think you're going to have to fold the 'handle' part up so it's coplanar with the face of the lock, otherwise it looks like the feel will be much too soft.
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by sams choice » 16 Mar 2006 4:32
i tried for a long time. Cant get it to even grip properly. it either slides out or seem like it is pulling wrong? i dont know. Im still diggin it though.
Mike
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by mh » 16 Mar 2006 5:08
sams choice wrote:i tried for a long time. Cant get it to even grip properly. it either slides out or seem like it is pulling wrong? i dont know. Im still diggin it though.
That's what I thought before. The distribution of the pulling force between the upper an the lower contact point probably doesn't work as intended.
You can pull on the upper contact point, but not on the lower.
A better option would be kind of V-shaped:
---------- <- grip here
/
That way, you would pull on both contact points.
It's more difficult to bend, though.
Cheers,
mh
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by dsdayl » 16 Mar 2006 5:18
Seems to me like it "could" work. But there are a few a few flaws that I can see already.
Like SFGOON said I think running it all the way around to the botton of the keyway would be your best bet. Also the friction created between the plug and the housing is going to reduce feedback.
Your basically wedging (sp) something between them. If it was thin enough to work without binding I don't think it would be strong enough.
Also, I have a few locks that I actually have to apply negative tension to (cause the spring is weak) to get past spool pins. They are actually so stiff that I can remove my tension wrench without any of the pins re-setting.
As you said they would only work in one direction. So that would create a problem.
O.K. I'm done being a pessimist now. I have a roll of sheet metal that I found in my girlfriends garage. About 2 foot by 20 foot. Slightly thicker than a pop can (don't know the exact thickness).
Since I have access to so much of it I will definetly give this and your other wrench idea a try.
Never know ya might be on to something. Could work for heavily warded, or teenie tiny Key-ways where ya need all the room you can muster.
Anyway its late and I gotta drink more beer, so I'll make a few of em tomorrow and try them out.
Later,
DoubleShot Dayl
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by Murph » 8 Aug 2006 13:32
Pip,
Your design intrigues and interest me. I have messed around with different tension tool designs and I never thought of one like you have illustrated. I'm going to make your design out of some thin springsteel and one out of a little thicker springsteel and give it a go. What did you make yours out of?
I'll post again and provide my thoughts on the design. In my opinion, I see a good potential there.
Thanks for sharing.
Murph
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by pip » 8 Aug 2006 21:59
i've tried a few different materials
like automotive feeler gauges and pop cans
but i've found that the main weakness
is at the very end contact point
it seems to be too weak for anything homemade
i still think it could work if someone had
access to the proper tools/materials
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by Krypos » 9 Aug 2006 2:36
i might try out making some models (like pip did with paper) out of aluminum can, even though, as sams choice (i believe) said, they will be too thin, but i will try to make some realistic models.
also i may try out my own hand at unique designs. im good at these types of things usually. i also have autocad. so that helps, and i can do some 3D modeling with that, oh right!
but also please, everyone remember KISS.
K eep
I t
S imple
S tupid
and L wrench is/has been working just fine in 95%+ of all pin tumblers.
note: 97.25684% of all statistics are made up on the spot.
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by Murph » 9 Aug 2006 13:29
This idea comes to mind, how about getting a hold of an inexpensive or cheap spring loaded measuring tape. The kind used in the construction trade, such as Stanley. Take it apart and remove the inner spring (use gloves and watch your face in case it decides to spring out) and try using the spring material. It's easy to work with and it's thin.
Just a thought.
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