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Replacement Of Filing Cabinet Lock

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Replacement Of Filing Cabinet Lock

Postby muppet man » 28 Mar 2006 14:48

First post on the site so hello to everyone.

I have a filing cabinet at home which my wife acquired when she started working from home recently for the council. The previous owner lost the key and wasn't really bothered but as my wife has work stuff in it now she wants a new lock on it.

It's a straight forward waifer lock with the number 252 embossed on it. I'm sure I could probably get a new key cut for it using this number but would like to know how to replace the whole lock. I can lock it for her using a pick and tension bar but that's no use to her when I'm away and she's no interest in learning to pick :roll:

So the questions are:

1. Can I get a new key cut using the number on it?
2. How do I replace the whole lock?

It's a simple lock (no security bar leading into the cabinet)
I have a good supply of locksmithing tools (not home-made) and have been picking for quite a while but strangely never thought of replacing this type of lock.

Appreciate any information you may have.
Oh, and by the way, I have used the search button and got 200+ returns but for some reason nothing which answers my specific question as it's not a picking problem.

Thanks.
muppet man
 
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Postby Jason13 » 28 Mar 2006 15:09

The number on it isnt the key cut number its usally a number that a locksmith can add up and stuff and make the key for you.


Usally its on the key but if its on the lock its porabally the same thing. :wink:
Image
Jason13
 
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Postby muppet man » 28 Mar 2006 15:17

Thanks for that. Appreciate the reply.
muppet man
 
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Joined: 28 Mar 2006 7:55
Location: Suffolk, England

Postby Jason13 » 28 Mar 2006 15:23

This is what ive heard, example on some keys if the first number says 1 the cut may be a 9 on the key.


http://img53.imageshack.us/img53/3632/dsc001540nk.jpg

The number says 1 and the first cut is the very deepest so im guessing its a 9.

i dont know how to work out the others cuts if anyone knows how to do this please pm me or share it in this topic.


Thx :)
Image
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Postby Jason13 » 28 Mar 2006 15:24

Oh sorry its the 3rd cut which is a 9 and the key says its a 0 so 0 is a 9 :D
Image
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Postby nezumi » 28 Mar 2006 15:55

The quickest thing to do is just buy a new lock (and key) at your local hardware store. Most cabinet locks are just wafer locks, which will run you around $6 (not breaking the bank, I hope!) If you have a collection of keys around, you COULD hypothetically crack open the lock and see if any of the keys have the right configuration, then check if your wafers are the right heights that you could use them for one of the keys. Of course, nothing says you have to put wafers in all the slots, so if you have three or even two wafers that fit and the rest don't, you could rekey it like that, but...

All told, that's a bit of frustrating work (the springs are rarely kind about going where they belong). Just put down the $6 and get a new one. I don't know how much a locksmith will charge to make a new key, if he understands the code. You'd still have to bring it to his shop, wait around for him to make new keys, and probably pay around $4. Not worth it, IMO.
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Postby muppet man » 28 Mar 2006 16:00

Ok, but how do I get the lock out of the filing cabinet? I can feel the back of it and there seems to be a short ( 2 cm) bar which just turns and doesn't come off and not much else. Can't get my head in there to look closely.

Happy to buy a new lock but need the old one off first.
muppet man
 
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Location: Suffolk, England

Postby Jason13 » 28 Mar 2006 16:05

That bar acts as the cam on pin tumblers i think but there must be a screw or something that takes it out.
Image
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Postby Chucklz » 28 Mar 2006 16:07

When you take out the drawers and look at the back of the lock, what keeps it in place? Is the lock body threaded or is there a big clip that keeps it there?

Does the lock plug pop out when you pick the wafers and additionally raise or depress another wafer farther back in the lock?
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Postby Varjeal » 29 Mar 2006 1:36

As Chucklz has suggested, there will be one of 4 options to remove the lock. They are as follows:

#1. A "C" shaped clip with a tab that you can pull on to free the lock.
#2. The lock may be held in place by a very short screw on either side of the lock.
#3. On the very end of the lock towards the back you may be able to see a screw that pins the lock to a bar.
#4. The lock may be retained by a nut if the lock body is threaded. Removing this nut will allow removal of the lock.

You will have to remove the first drawer and shine a flashlight inside to find out exactly which method you will need to perform.

The code stamped on the front of the lock is an indirect code that a locksmith can use code software to decode. As much as I hate to say it, please ignore everything Jason has just tried to tell you.
*insert witty comment here*
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Postby muppet man » 30 Mar 2006 6:35

Thanks for the info. Got it off eventually. Held on by screw. Learnt something new today so that makes it a GOOD day! :D
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Postby nhughz » 30 Mar 2006 10:48

Hi Muppet Man

Take a look at www.nukey.co.uk ,may be of some help.
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Postby clayton1123 » 31 Mar 2006 0:06

Is it important that the cabinet have a key? Either just take the lock off and leave it or this may be a great impressioning opportunity seeing as how thwafer pin locks are so easy to impression. Make the key yourself and then get some duplicates .



Just my 2 cents
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