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Belsaw K-350 Key Duplicator Machine

Got a question about key machines? not sure what to buy? need a user manual? have some tips for keeping one running well or need help cutting or programming keys? Post here!

Postby ComTech » 26 Oct 2006 17:20

You can order from Foley Belsaw at 800 821-3452
Motor part # LCK5726001 about $50.00
Belt LCK5726002 $3.50
Duplicating Cutter LCK5726012 $23.00
Code Cutter LCK5726011 $23.00
Steel Cutter LCK5726010 $15.50

You can request catalog at the web site below.
http://www.foley-belsaw.com/Catalogs.html
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Postby jmac875 » 26 Oct 2006 19:11

Thanks ComTech, just what I was looking for. I will let you all know if they still carry parts for the FB K-350.
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Postby ComTech » 26 Oct 2006 19:20

Those part numbers are for the model 200 machine, but I think all these parts will work on all machines. Motor, belt, and cutters should fit, I don't think they changed the machine that much.
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Postby jmac875 » 28 Oct 2006 19:20

OK All, I received the Foley-Belsaw K-350. The drive rod was a little stiff when I first got it, so I took the old grease gun and hooked it up to the grease fitting on it. This just caused the 200 year old (exaggeration) grease that was in it to ooze out the bushings. I disassembled the entire shaft and cleaned and degreased it. Once this was done I lubed it up with a little silicon based lube from WD-40. Once this was done the shaft spun just fine. I then went in and had to do some major calibration adjustments. Fortunately the cutting wheel was in good shape and will not have to be replaced for a while. For a motor I bought a sewing machine motor that came with a belt. I mounted the cutter and the motor to wood, and stepped on the on switch (yes I bought a sewing machine motor with a foot pedal. :D ). It was up and cutting keys in no time. Some minor other calibrations and everything was good to go.

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My question is, should I apply grease to the drive shaft? There is a fitting, but after I cleaned all of the original grease out, I applied light machine grease to it through the fitting again, and this made the performance worse. I had to clean it all out again, and I just used liberal amounts of the silicon based WD-40 spray.

(Pardon the mess, we are in the process of getting a new house and my shop has been turned into a storage area.)

Let me know if you have any thoughts. This means you Shrub... :lol:

Thanks,
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Postby ComTech » 28 Oct 2006 20:38

The new foley machines don't even have a grease fitting, I think they have oilite bushing that supposely doesn't need lube. I personally find that a drop or two of synthetic motor oil does great. It last longer than regular oil. Any lube that you use that keeps the shaft turning freely should be fine.
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Postby Shrub » 28 Oct 2006 20:48

Yes i concur,

Grease will hinder the performance with grease being for heavier loads, oil is your friend here and your nipple will be for that, a light oil and dont use a lot,

The new ones with oilite bearings will be for cost and as said maintanence free,

Dont let the shaft run dry on yours and you will be fine whatever you use just dont use grease as youve found out :wink:
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Postby jmac875 » 28 Oct 2006 21:43

Yup, I found that out the hard way. Greasing and degreasing twice. But the one question I have it, if you should not use grease, why does the machine have a grease fitting for a grease gun? Do they make a machine oil for grease guns?
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Postby ComTech » 28 Oct 2006 22:05

There are many different type of grease, wheel bearing grease is thicker, years ago wheel bearing grease was real thick, modern wheel bearing grease is much lighter. Chassis grease is thinner than wheel bearing grease, white lithium grease is very light, which might make a suitable lube for the key machine.

You said your grease gun was old, how old is the grease in the gun?, If it's been in there for years, it may have become very thick and stiff. I've seen old cans of wheel bearing grease dry out to the point is was like modeling clay, total unusable.

I've been around the trucking industry for years, and I've never seen any oil that can be used in a grease gun, they may be one, but I've never seen it.

I think if I wanted to try grease, I would try the white lithium grease. I think you can buy it a most auto parts stores in a tube that will fit in a grease gun.
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Postby jmac875 » 28 Oct 2006 22:19

I was refering to the grease gun as "the old grease gun". Not that it was old, which it is, but the contents were just changed out.

I will look into the white lithium, but I might just stick with adding a silicon based oil. The cutter guard screw hole goes all the way into the drive shaft, I could add oil there, rather then being forced to use the grease fitting.

Thanks for the info
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Postby ComTech » 29 Oct 2006 8:27

Most grease fittings screw in and therefore can be removed, but there are a few that are driven in, and harder to remove. If you find a small hex at the base of the fitting, you can probably unscrew it and drop the oil in there also. A few drops of synthetic motor oil would probably last for months or longer.
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Postby jmac875 » 29 Oct 2006 9:59

Mothrog just PMed me, he received his part manual for the FB200 and the part number for the base of the machine is K-350. So he believes that the machine that we have been calling a K-350 is realy an old 200 with the part stamped very large on the base. I agree with him, but I will wait until I get a copy of the manual, and see how similar the parts are.

ComTech Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 8:27 am Post subject:

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Most grease fittings screw in and therefore can be removed, but there are a few that are driven in, and harder to remove


It looks like the machine has one of the driven grease fittings, I can turn the fitting, but it does not back out, it just spins in the socket. But thanks for the Idea, I might remove it, and replace it with a Teflon screw, so it will seal up, but I can easily add lube to it.
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Postby Mothrog » 28 Nov 2006 19:51

For anyone interested, I scanned my model 200 manual and have posted it on the FileFactory. The download URL is:

http://www.filefactory.com/file/15d4d6/
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Postby ldnlksmth » 7 Jan 2007 22:17

I was just looking at the pictures of your 'frankencutter', and noticed that your motor seems to be way off to the side. Would reversing it and turning it upside down make your system more compact?
keys, we don't need no stinking keys!
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Postby jmac875 » 7 Jan 2007 23:14

I have since removed the sewing machine motor, and attached a modified 6" bench grinder motor. The power and speed with the motor is wonderful.

Thanks for the advice though.
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Postby zeke79 » 7 Jan 2007 23:57

Good call Jmac. The power from the small motors really stinks. I have an older ilco 008 mini mite with the sewing machine motor and if the cutter is not very sharp it really drags out the duplicating process.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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