Warded Padlocks - A Guide by illusion

[Shrub]

jeebus,i still don't know HOW these locks work.Dang i better start studying

Im sure Ilusion made a good job of explaining it but i will have a go,

See the brass coloured part in the top of the lock? you see the edge of it,

Well there will be a shaped hole in the side of that and that wil fit the end of the key,

If the brass bit is moved to the right in these pics then the hasp is free to pull out,

To slide the brass part over you turn the key in the shaped hole, its like a cam motion,

Thats it basically,

All the silver wafer type bits are a way to control which key works the lock or any cut key including a blank key would open it,

The way that works is that the wafer bits block parts of the keyway thus stopping the key from turning unless the key has the right cut in it so it can be turned and thus pass the part that blocks the keyway,

A way around this would be to make a skeleton key like illusions picture shows, this key has all the parts that would interact with the wafer parts cut away, it still has the part that oporates the brass part however,

That key will open every one of those model locks without exception unless there is a problem with the lock that stops it,

[cL4y]

ahh well.Dw,ill probably figure it out on my own.

And congratz on becoming a mod!

[Fah_Cue]

this seems like fun ill try and make it short and sweet

ok the little metal "wards" are there to stop a incorrect key because they just lay there still so if the right key is put in it will clear all the wards so you can turn a flick open the end bit.

So all that really matters is the last little bit that flicks the latch open at the inner most part of the lock, therefore if you have a key filied down so that the end bit of the key is the onyl thing there, then there is nothing to stop you turning the key.

[Shrub]

Yup and that key is whats called a skeleton key

[Spossum]

Thanks for the great tutorial. I bought one of these locks at a garage sale a while back, without the key for a quarter. I decided it was time to learn how to open this lock.
I bought another one. I got one extra key made and one blank. I filed it down like you said but it doesn't open the lock. It spins around, I can feel it turning something, but the lock doesn't open. I was wondering if my lock may have two levers to turn, maybe I shouldn't have filed them all off. I decided not to grind down any more keys, yet. Here is a picture of my new lock, keys, and my old lock. I am watching for a bike in the trash, as soon as I find one I will have some spokes.

[Sesame]

I suspect it was just the wrong key. Maybe the key to the old lock is wider than the new key? If so the skeleton part at the end of the ground-down key might not be wide enough to engage the latch mechanism.

Just a thought

[Spossum]

The skeleton key won't open either lock, sorry I didn't make that clear. It actually wont fit into the opening of the old lock, but it might if I filed it down a little more. I can't figure out why it won't open the new lock.

[Sesame]

Maybe try this. Grind down another key but only take out one set of tabs at a time. Maybe they latch mechanism isn't at the last tab.

Let us know how you get on.

[Spossum]

I ground down the key and left only the top two tabs, it opened the lock. As you can see from this new picture, the keyways are a zig zag shape, and different. So the key wouldn't fit in my old lock. I made a new "key" out of an old sawblade and it fits in and opens both locks. I guess these master locks have two levers to turn before they will open.

[Sesame]

Interesting. Good job.

I wonder if the smallest tab on these warded locks is always the latch mechanism. It makes sense that they would make the vulnerability as small as possible. I'd love to know if your skeleton key would work if you took off the end tabs and only left the little second set of tabs.

[Spossum]

Sesame, I appreciate your comments on this. I know many think these locks are not worth messing with, or are too simple. I really wanted to learn how they worked though. I think in these locks there are 2 levers, because the first skeleton key I made I could clearly tell I was turning something, but the lock wouldn't open. I may experiment a little more or even take the old lock apart. Also, the sawblade key works, but it feels a little weak. I am afraid it may break if I use it much, I am trying to think of a better material. That is why I didn't finish sanding it down.

[Romstar]

Depends on the saw blade.

Because of the strength of many of the springs in cheap warded padlocks, you need a warded pick that just fits through the hole bypassing the key wards.

There are a number of templates for warded picks, and I think if you search enough you can find an internal diagram or two.

Romstar

[pmanchego]

I saw on your bike pick that the tab is only to one side. Is this always enough for a warded lock?

I remember opening a diary book lock (not mine) once which I would consider a small warded lock. I was able to pick it with a paper clip making a "T" shape at the tip. When it finally broke I saw a spring at the top which had to be spread open by the tip to open. Would that be considered a warded lock? (sorry I got no images)

[pmanchego]

I have been thinking about Spoussum's key, needing two tabs. If this is true, wouldn't there have to be two notches in the hasp? Or else, shouldn't you be able to feel some release of the hasp when opening only the most proximal tab of the 2? These are just questions.

[Nicky the Greek]

Yeah Nice guide i learned a lot