Lock Picking 101 Forum
A community dedicated to the fun and ethical hobby of lock picking.
       

Lock Picking 101 Home
Login
Profile
Members
Forum Rules
Frequent Forum Questions
SEARCH
View New Posts
View Active Topics


Live Chat on Discord
LP101 Forum Chat
Keypicking Forum Chat
Reddit r/lockpicking Chat



Learn How to Pick Locks
FAQs & General Questions
Got Beginner Questions?
Pick-Fu [Intermediate Level]


Ask a Locksmith
This Old Lock
This Old Safe
What Lock Should I Buy?



Hardware
Locks
Lock Patents
Lock Picks
Lock Bumping
Lock Impressioning
Lock Pick Guns, Snappers
European Locks & Picks
The Machine Shop
The Open Source Lock
Handcuffs


Member Spotlight
Member Introductions
Member Lock Collections
Member Social Media


Off Topic
General Chatter
Other Puzzles


Locksmith Business Info
Training & Licensing
Running a Business
Keyways & Key Blanks
Key Machines
Master Keyed Systems
Closers and Crash Bars
Life Safety Compliance
Electronic Locks & Access
Locksmith Supplies
Locksmith Lounge


Buy Sell Trade
Buy - Sell - Trade
It came from Ebay!


Advanced Topics
Membership Information
Special Access Required:
High Security Locks
Vending Locks
Advanced Lock Pick Tools
Bypass Techniques
Safes & Safe Locks
Automotive Entry & Tools
Advanced Buy/Sell/Trade


Locksport Groups
Locksport Local
Chapter President's Office
Locksport Board Room
 

What is a Hand Punch/Key Clipper

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Postby Raccoon » 9 Nov 2006 23:36

Yes. For the most part, the manufacturer specs are for all of their keyways. There are exceptions, and know that the guide you posted has many inaccuracies and failes to include a large number of manufacturers and their alternate specs. IE, there are two Yale specs (.19 and .25, you will use .19), etc.

There are also bits of incorrect information in that PDF that must be verified before doing anything of importance. I lost a lot of time and money because I assumed that data from Dlico was accurate, and it was not. The MACS for Yale is 5 not 7.
Raccoon
Supporter
Supporter
 
Posts: 3137
Joined: 27 Dec 2004 4:23

Postby jmac875 » 9 Nov 2006 23:39

Raccoon,
Do you know of another online source that has more reliable information then Dlico?
Image
jmac875
Supporter
Supporter
 
Posts: 86
Joined: 1 Oct 2006 9:40
Location: Effort, PA

Postby Raccoon » 9 Nov 2006 23:47

Each of the manufacturer websites will usually have this information. For instance, see www.yalelock.com > north america > commercial > literature > specifications

http://www.yalecommercial.com/library/b ... cfm?Type=S
Raccoon
Supporter
Supporter
 
Posts: 3137
Joined: 27 Dec 2004 4:23

Postby Raccoon » 9 Nov 2006 23:48

Btw, I wholly recommend checking out those docs, even if you have no interest in Yale locks. They are just beautiful pieces of information that every company should try to emulate.

http://www.assaabloydss.com/library/bul ... 7202%2Epdf
Raccoon
Supporter
Supporter
 
Posts: 3137
Joined: 27 Dec 2004 4:23

Postby jmac875 » 10 Nov 2006 0:17

Raccoon,
This good stuff man, Thanks. I do wish other manufacturers followed the same format for documentation. The graphics really cleared up some of the questions I had regarding the different pin types, and how they are placed in the stack.

Also,
I plan on reviewing the Hand punch, and writing a technique guide if necessary when it arrives. So if anyone has this device and would like to aid me in this endeavor please post your info up here.

Thanks again,
Image
jmac875
Supporter
Supporter
 
Posts: 86
Joined: 1 Oct 2006 9:40
Location: Effort, PA

Postby maxxed » 10 Nov 2006 2:44

jmac875 wrote:What do you mean there is no manufacturer information? In the PDF it shows the manufacturer above every list of specs in blue. .


Must be my viewer because I just see a blue box
maxxed
 
Posts: 736
Joined: 18 Mar 2006 12:09
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Postby jmac875 » 10 Nov 2006 9:23

I wrote this up in Adobe Standard 6.0 and I believe that I did not make it compatable with older versions to reduce the file size.

What version of Adobe do you have?
Image
jmac875
Supporter
Supporter
 
Posts: 86
Joined: 1 Oct 2006 9:40
Location: Effort, PA

Postby maxxed » 10 Nov 2006 19:54

I use linix and I'm not sure of the viewer version, I just wanted to be sure that you were working with accurate information. I recognized many of the depth and spacing patterns but when I couldn't see the mfg I thought I would assist you. It seems that all is well :D :)
maxxed
 
Posts: 736
Joined: 18 Mar 2006 12:09
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Postby jmac875 » 13 Nov 2006 17:16

Well I got the hand clipper in! I love it. The problem I was having with my Yale bump key, was that one of the ramp peeks was lower then the deepest cut, so the ramp was not touching the pin. I hand marked and cut one with my clipper and it worked in 3 tries.

The key marking process was the toughest part, and it wasn't that bad with the new digital caliper. I marked the depth line, then marked each of the cut spacings from my chart, then went to town with the clippers.
I found the clipper very easy to operate, the scored cutting pad did help with making sure the cuts were square. I did notice when I cut a titan KW10 that the key bent a little bit. This is countered either by putting the key in a vice for a little after cutting, or alternating the sides of the key that you cut into. The second choice will require double the time marking, so i just put it in a vice, and that was that. I was going to put an instruction document together, but this item is so simple to use, there is no need. As long as you know how to mark a key for depth and spacing, you are good to go.
Raccoon is right about impressioning, you will need to score the edge of the key after every cut in order for the marks to show up clearly. I do not know if the clippers will make impressioning harder or not. It would be very easy to take too much from the key when cutting by eye. But you can make a cut as shallow as a 1 with out a problem.

OK, now that the excitement is done I have the pictures I promised. Sorry they are a little blurry, but I gave up after taking 10 of each shot, and not getting any clearer.

They are too big to post even after resizing, so I am putting URLs.
http://www.geocities.com/jmac875/HC-Whole-2.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/jmac875/HC-Head-3.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/jmac875/HC-Face-4.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/jmac875/HC-Titan-1.jpg

The last one is the titan I cut by code with the clippers.

Let me know if you need anymore information.
Image
jmac875
Supporter
Supporter
 
Posts: 86
Joined: 1 Oct 2006 9:40
Location: Effort, PA

Postby maxxed » 13 Nov 2006 18:05

jmac875 wrote:Well I got the hand clipper in! I love it. The problem I was having with my Yale bump key, was that one of the ramp peeks was lower then the deepest cut, so the ramp was not touching the pin. I hand marked and cut one with my clipper and it worked in 3 tries.
.


Is the lock cylinder you were trying the bump key in an original yale lock cylinder or an aftermarket. Sometimes the aftermarket pieces use differnt spacing than the original, and it is also possible that the plug has not been drilled deep enough on the one chamber.

It seems like the clipper might be worth having,
maxxed
 
Posts: 736
Joined: 18 Mar 2006 12:09
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Postby jmac875 » 13 Nov 2006 21:48

It's an original yale. Once i cut the key using the clipper to Yale specs, not using the schlage spacing, it worked on the yale lock.

My full time job has me going to around 90 different buildings. All of these buildings re-key every so often, so I get alot of cylinders. The latest building had Yale before they re-keyed, so I have a few of them.

Thanks again Maxxed,
Image
jmac875
Supporter
Supporter
 
Posts: 86
Joined: 1 Oct 2006 9:40
Location: Effort, PA

Postby maxxed » 14 Nov 2006 1:06

Glad I could help :D
maxxed
 
Posts: 736
Joined: 18 Mar 2006 12:09
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Previous

Return to Got Questions? - Ask Beginner Hobby Lockpicking Questions Here

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests